Pioneer HPM-100 Recapping Walkthrough

They seem to be.

I have the 200W versions as well.

I haven't done mine YET, BUT I did take a picture to include in the thread for future reference.

Here is one of the crossovers from my HPM100 (200W) version.

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The two green capacitor values are: 3K 100 (smaller cap), and 4.4K 100 (larger cap), the wire wound resistor in this XO is a 5W @ 10ohm.

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Hey guys! After having recapped and otherwise modified a couple of old amplifiers, I never thought replacing those three lousy caps in my HPM would be where I need to actively seek help here for the first time. I do wanna thank everybody for all the passive assistance this forum has provided to me in the past, without which I had not been able to bring some of my gear back to life!

I have a pair of HPM-70s. These are actually closer to the 100s than they are to the 60s, in specs and build. Three caps and a resistor, in my case 0.3, 3.0 and 6.0uF, and 8Ohms. This translates to 2000, 3000, 12000Hz crossover frequencies.

Now, I could reproduce these values using a number of smaller ones, but I wonder how much it would really hurt to deviate from the original capacitances a little bit. For example with a 6.8 and a 2.8. Might this even bring down the low crossover and raise the mid one? That would be fine with me, obviously. I'm just not sure what other effects a 13% deviation may bring about. Having followed the discussion in this great thread I get the impression that in crossovers these differences are somewhat more critical than in amplifiers.

Please tell me your thoughts!
 
Thanks a lot, kryten! I'm actually not hellbent on moving the x-over frequencies (even though after checking out that thread you recommended, that may change quickly). My main question was more about how far I can stray from the originial capacitances when recapping, without having to also change coils
 
I'm in the process of recapping my HPM-100 / 200 watt version and would like to know what kind of goop they used to secure all the components. It looks like some kind of hot glue and I'm guessing pioneer did that to keep things from vibrating loose. For those who have done the recapp on your speakers, what did you use if anything to secure the new components to the board ?. I'm thinking of using a little clear silicone or maybe hot glue. Also one of the original caps is rated at 4.4 fu and one of the replacement parts listed by the OP is rated at 4.3 fu. I am assuming that the difference is not an issue. Hope to get some answers here. Thanks!....
 
I cant remember which caps I used, but I used clear silicone to hold them down. I strap tied the 3 together first, then silicone them to the PCB.
 
Well I installed the new caps and to be honest about it, I cant really hear any difference between the old and new caps. I guess maybe my hearing is not as good now as back in my younger days but it's done.
 
Ron Moths said:
Well I installed the new caps and to be honest about it, I cant really hear any difference between the old and new caps. I guess maybe my hearing is not as good now as back in my younger days but it's done.
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I did the same, replaced everything and can't hear the difference as well.
 
xoaphexox said:
No problem! When I started this thread I would have never guessed it'd be alive and kicking 7 years later! I'm glad people find it useful. I still listen to my recapped HPM-100 every day!
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It's 2019 and I am reading this thread and learning how to recap my HPM 100's. I really would like to thank all of you because I would not have been able to do this with out your help.:bowdown:
This has to be the longest thread I have ever ever read 12 years and still going strong just like that little bunny fella. And for those who where involved in this thread who are no longer with us. I would like to send out a special shout out to them. :bye:
 
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Does anyone have a pic of the finished recap. It's the .15uf cap I'm trying to find a good place to fit it. Most of the pics from previous posts all say photo no longer available.IMG_0425.jpeg
 
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IIRC, the big cap sets on top of the other 2 caps. Use some shrink wrap on the leads and use a zip tie to keep them together and to keep them from rattling. Maybe silicon caulk too. My pics were deleted from photobucket, but I will look through some of my old pictures and see what I can find.
 
Hey All,

Been struggling to get a login credential here for the last couple of weeks, but finally resolved the Captcha issues and got in this morning for the first time as an actual "member"....!!! Not being able to view all the images (as a guest) was making my research around here really impossible... but hopefully things will be getting easier from now on.

I picked up a set of Pioneer HPM-100s a couple of weeks ago locally here in Austin, TX and they looked to be in decent shape for a reasonable price. The only immediate issue was a broken RED plastic housing on the rear speaking binding post which was making it impossible to secure the wire properly. After finding an original replacement on eBay and removing the rear access plate to swap it in, I discovered THIS..... (see images below).

It looks like a previous owner has already done some work on these crossover networks.... the most notable is the prominent Jantzen Audio Superior cap (0.15pF)... and there are a couple of Dayton caps (4.3mF) below it which also appear to be a retrofit. A lot of the other compents seem to still have Pioneer logos on them and the original adhesive... but did not study it in great detail yet.

Does anyone recognize these components as being part of a specific brand of upgrade? Am I in the right thread for this specific crossover mod? Now that I have full access to the AudioKarma site, I'm sure that I can do my research a lot quicker and will be able to find the answers I need... but if any of you are feeling generous and want to nudge me in the right direction here, I'd sure appreciate it!! :)

Thanks, and looking forward to spending a lot more time lurking (and learning) around here.

-G



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