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Pioneer HPM-100 Recapping Walkthrough

I just recapped my hpm-100 (100w version), and I want to make sure that I plugged woofer correctly since, they were connected differently.

As per service manual the blue wire should be plug on +, on the woofer there's a little red dot beside a connector, is this connector the + ??
Yes. If reversed it won't hurt the driver but will put it out of phase with the rest.
 
Thank you for the reply, so one of the woofer was plug incorrectly and same thing for one of the super tweeter.

Maybe it's my imagination but now my speakers sounds more "smooth".
 
Thank you for the reply, so one of the woofer was plug incorrectly and same thing for one of the super tweeter.

Maybe it's my imagination but now my speakers sounds more "smooth".
No it's not your imagination. Now all of your drivers are working in phase and not counteracting each other. Now enjoy the music! :thmbsp:
 
Yes. If reversed it won't hurt the driver but will put it out of phase with the rest.

I just recapped mine last night and both of my white wires were on the red dot terminals. Not the blue wires??? Were mine wrong?
BTW, a huge thank you to Rob (OP) for the thread on doing these. Without his thread I would have never attempted to recap mine. Actually the hardest part of the whole thing was getting the old glue off of the PCB and the old caps.
Here's mine. :thmbsp:

D591108F-8023-4C4E-8822-374ECFD4313A_zpsfzuuw8y0.jpg
 
Update.

I went upstairs and opened up my other set, and sure enough, the blue wires were on the red dots. :scratch2:
I went downstairs and switched the other ones to the blue wires.
Thanks Eagle1 and Patate91 for bringing this up. I just assumed that since they were white on red dot, that was the right way. I even took pictures so I made sure everything went back the same way it came apart. I will be ordering new caps for the other pair ASAP. They sound sweet. Not as harsh as before.
Thank god for AK!
 
I went upstairs and opened up my other set, and sure enough, the blue wires were on the red dots. :scratch2:
I went downstairs and switched the other ones to the blue wires.
Thanks Eagle1 and Patate91 for bringing this up. I just assumed that since they were white on red dot, that was the right way. I even took pictures so I made sure everything went back the same way it came apart. I will be ordering new caps for the other pair ASAP. They sound sweet. Not as harsh as before.
Thank god for AK!
Glad you got it all worked out and rewired to spec and in phase. Sounds (pun) the previous owner liked the effect of out of phase sets of speakers or didn't know any better.
 
Glad you got it all worked out and rewired to spec and in phase. Sounds (pun) the previous owner liked the effect of out of phase sets of speakers or didn't know any better.

:thmbsp: And that's why I belong to AK. Thanks Eagle1!
 
No problem! When I started this thread I would have never guessed it'd be alive and kicking 7 years later! I'm glad people find it useful. I still listen to my recapped HPM-100 every day!
 
Hi everyone, recapped my 100's last week and documented the restoration (crossovers, cabinet refinish, grill recover). I have a 13 page Word doc if anyone is interested. Steps with pix. Let me know I can email you a copy.
 
That's a generous offer. I would love to receive a copy of that word doc. Will it open up on older mac? Thanks. I can email you privately if that would be helpful. Norm
 
I know the OP was almost 10 years ago, but dang! After adding all those parts to my basket, the total was twice what I paid for the speakers in the first place
 
Question on the choice of cap values

I got it in, 1/4 turn at a time, using a small flat-blade screwdriver. Elevating the 4.3 uF to provide access is key.

Also, saved enough on the 0.15 uF to put in Theta bypass caps, which fit on the back of the board:

attachment.php


Measured values of components removed:

4.4 uF = 4.38, 4.50
3.0 uF = 3.07, 3.12
0.15 uf = 0.185, 0.190

Recommendation:

Add 0.01 uF Thetas across stock 4.4 uF and 3.0 uF
Replace 0.15 uF with 0.47 uF and 0.22 uF in series, as shown.

http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=1273846#post1273846

Zilch,
I follow why you chose the .47uF plus the .22uF to replace the OE .15uF. But you lost me as to why you chose to add .01uF to each of the 4.4uF and the 3.0uF. What is the purpose of this. I'm not saying you're wrong or anything of the sort, I just don't understand it.. Could you please expand on that for me?

Thanks for the information

Bubba57
 
Zilch,
I follow why you chose the .47uF plus the .22uF to replace the OE .15uF. But you lost me as to why you chose to add .01uF to each of the 4.4uF and the 3.0uF. What is the purpose of this. I'm not saying you're wrong or anything of the sort, I just don't understand it.. Could you please expand on that for me?

Thanks for the information

Bubba57

Hello, Bubba57.

Our fine Zilch passed away awhile back, you probably weren't aware of that.

Best of luck.
 
Thanks for your response OJ,
I had no idea. I also seen where Alleykat passed away too. It makes you realize just how short this life is. They are both in a much better place then we are. It's only their families and friends that suffer these passings.

With that said, I guess we better "crank it up" while we still can..we never know do we?

Thanks again and may God Bless their families and loved ones.

Joey
Bubba57
 
My knowledge is limited but the small capacitors act as a caps filter. It's supposed to smooth out things. I followed this thread when I recapped mine and I'm really satisfied.
 
My knowledge is limited but the small capacitors act as a caps filter. It's supposed to smooth out things. I followed this thread when I recapped mine and I'm really satisfied.

Thanks for responding patate91,
I have been aiming to recap mine for a while now. I think I'm ready now. I was torn between using a pair of 2.2uF for the 4.4 or the more common Dayton 4.3uF and adding the 1.0 to it. I plan on using a .15 film cap for the super tweeter circuit. What are your thoughts on this?

Thanks
Bubba57
 
Thanks for responding patate91,
I have been aiming to recap mine for a while now. I think I'm ready now. I was torn between using a pair of 2.2uF for the 4.4 or the more common Dayton 4.3uF and adding the 1.0 to it. I plan on using a .15 film cap for the super tweeter circuit. What are your thoughts on this?

Thanks
Bubba57

Might be good, I used .01 bypasses on some old Minimus 77's, and things got far better in the high end.
 
Hi everyone, recapped my 100's last week and documented the restoration (crossovers, cabinet refinish, grill recover). I have a 13 page Word doc if anyone is interested. Steps with pix. Let me know I can email you a copy.

Have been enjoying this thread, and am compelled to undertake the project. Please do send your doc. Much appreciated!
 
Hi everyone, recapped my 100's last week and documented the restoration (crossovers, cabinet refinish, grill recover). I have a 13 page Word doc if anyone is interested. Steps with pix. Let me know I can email you a copy.
Tom, Would love to get a copy of your Word doc. Thx.
 
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