If you are confident in the testing you did on the amp boards, and that there are no other bad components on them, you could reassemble everything and power it up on a dim bulb tester.
I would however at least replace the Q5 & Q6 2sc1451's on each board, paying careful attention to the lead configurations of the new transistors going in. Are you familiar with the transistor symbol and it's lead designations?
I would also do Q4, and Q7,8,9 & 10 at least on the board where R23 looked somewhat burned (that whole string was stressed) and the other board for symmetry. On Q9 & Q10 there are also mica insulators.
Q11 and Q12 could be tricky, and I would be sure by testing that the leads were identified correctly before insertion. It isn't a bad idea to test every transistor before insertion - I do...
When you are ready to turn it on, dial both bias pots to zero ohms, and each offset pot to roughly the center.
Then connect it to a dim bulb tester. The bulb brightness represents current draw, initially bright (high) as the big caps charge, then dims down. IF it stays bright, there's too much draw, and a problem.
While on the dim bulb, temporarily increase the bias current for each channel as a test, then turn it back down to zero. Then if things behave themselves, you can remove the tester and bring it up on line voltage.
note: on the dbt, there is less voltage at the unit, so adjustments would be too high on normal voltage - thus turning them back down. Plus the increased draw from idle current adjustment will brighten the bulb, cutting the "line" voltage and possibly kicking the unit into protect.
I would however at least replace the Q5 & Q6 2sc1451's on each board, paying careful attention to the lead configurations of the new transistors going in. Are you familiar with the transistor symbol and it's lead designations?
I would also do Q4, and Q7,8,9 & 10 at least on the board where R23 looked somewhat burned (that whole string was stressed) and the other board for symmetry. On Q9 & Q10 there are also mica insulators.
Q11 and Q12 could be tricky, and I would be sure by testing that the leads were identified correctly before insertion. It isn't a bad idea to test every transistor before insertion - I do...
When you are ready to turn it on, dial both bias pots to zero ohms, and each offset pot to roughly the center.
Then connect it to a dim bulb tester. The bulb brightness represents current draw, initially bright (high) as the big caps charge, then dims down. IF it stays bright, there's too much draw, and a problem.
While on the dim bulb, temporarily increase the bias current for each channel as a test, then turn it back down to zero. Then if things behave themselves, you can remove the tester and bring it up on line voltage.
note: on the dbt, there is less voltage at the unit, so adjustments would be too high on normal voltage - thus turning them back down. Plus the increased draw from idle current adjustment will brighten the bulb, cutting the "line" voltage and possibly kicking the unit into protect.
