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Pioneer SX-1980, AWR-154/155 power supply re-design

more work on the power supply and amp modules - FYI this will be the last post her for the 1980 video series as it will likely be the last where Tony discusses the new power supply board.

 
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Thanks for the feedback guys, very much appreciated,
1.) When bench testing, run a jumper from pin 21 to Pin 10 (Grounds). Otherwise votlages on the 80v and -80v are all over, and the CCS LED's flicker out of phase with each other(no ground reference.). Once ground established @ pin 10, everything copasthetic.
I did check my instructions, so it was made mention of, nice to know it does not blow up. I also show in my bench test these wires being hooked up.
4) To start, insert only, the AC [#26,#27,#28], the transformer wires [ORG(2),#22,#23; BRN,#21(centre-tap); GRN(2),#19,#20; BLU(2),#24,#25], and terminal #10(chassis ground)] into the terminal blocks, TB2,3,4,13,15. Tighten the terminal blocks with wires/terminals/ferrules inserted. If your unit has some ceramic caps attached, it is fine to leave them alone.


2.) When finished with installing, you will have pins 1 & 2 (old board) left over. No pin 1 & 2 on new board as the voltage pick off's are internal to the board now. You can either heatshrink the ends and mark them for later use if you decide to Re-install the original board or remove them completely.
In Sendust's unit, pin 1& 2 were jumped so I hard wired them on the pcb. It was the multi-tap transformer primary version. If it was going to be a one of then that would have been okay except I should have accommodated the pins 1 &2. Just these last few days I did a revision, to add this in as an option and fix a few things to make them easier to assemble, not have to lead form as many bjts.

Cheers
Rick
 
Thanks for the feedback guys, very much appreciated,

I did check my instructions, so it was made mention of, nice to know it does not blow up. I also show in my bench test these wires being hooked up.
4) To start, insert only, the AC [#26,#27,#28], the transformer wires [ORG(2),#22,#23; BRN,#21(centre-tap); GRN(2),#19,#20; BLU(2),#24,#25], and terminal #10(chassis ground)] into the terminal blocks, TB2,3,4,13,15. Tighten the terminal blocks with wires/terminals/ferrules inserted. If your unit has some ceramic caps attached, it is fine to leave them alone.



In Sendust's unit, pin 1& 2 were jumped so I hard wired them on the pcb. It was the multi-tap transformer primary version. If it was going to be a one of then that would have been okay except I should have accommodated the pins 1 &2. Just these last few days I did a revision, to add this in as an option and fix a few things to make them easier to assemble, not have to lead form as many bjts.

Cheers
Rick
Ah...so there are two versions of the SX1980? I was pretty sure you wouldn't have left techs to figure out how to stop the soft start latching on......
Very nice job of the supply though, next level compared to what was in there originally.
 
Looking at the manual, additional info section,(recall sending that to you Kev, a while back?) shows that there are 5 versions.
HG,S,S/G,KC,KU
iirc it was S/G I worked on.
There 3 different power switches. 4 different transformers. They made ones just for the US military over-seas iirc S or S/G
The US model(KC,KU?) power switch has 2 contacts, one is added to break the connection to the soft-start relay. I am not sure exactly why they did it that way and not the other models, I suspect someone did not like the few seconds for the soft-start to click off, wanted a faster relay off time, anyone else know of a good reason?
If these extra switch contacts fail, it could smoke the soft-start and thermal fuse, as the relay would never close and short out the big R & T/F. Same as a PS fault. There is little current mA to power the relay coil, so should not be hard on the switch contacts.
There was also another PS AWR-155, I think for only the /HG version. I see it uses a larger soft-start R 6.8 ohms, usually for the higher line V settings I assume.
That's it for my 1980 research.
 
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If these extra switch contacts fail, it could smoke the soft-start and thermal fuse, as the relay would never close and short out the big R & T/F. Same as a PS fault. There is little current mA to power the relay coil, so should not be hard on the switch contacts.
Thats why it wouldn't be unreasonable to assume its not wired that way....
Well I think Tony's solution was good, Paralleling the switch contacts and moving the supply to the other side of the switch....
Very simple.
 
Thats why it wouldn't be unreasonable to assume its not wired that way....
Not so sure about that, I do question the contact ratings for that switch section however and if both switch contacts have the same AC ratings.
 
Not so sure about that, I do question the contact ratings for that switch section however and if both switch contacts have the same AC ratings.
Yes, I believe the contacts have the same rating, so it seems like a nice simple workaround for that issue.
 
Bump for a great thread. I'm a newbie long time lurker...
I have a 1980 that need "power supply" rebuilding... LOL
 
I am in the process of using this EXCELLENT upgrade power supply in two SX-1980s. I have come across a few small omissions and/or possible oops-s in the schematic for the new board. I'm going to go fully through this process before I try and install it.

Question: Was/is there and updated schematic, and/or notes on some possible documentation issues? Note, I am NOT COMPLAINING. you've done an exceptional job with a low volume, and difficult, task. I'm just asking if any follow-ups were done on the documentation or other notes along the way. If not, perhaps I'll list my findings as I go through the process of checking, and then installing, the boards.
 
Forgot about this thread, been a while since anyone has responded, but I get notifications.
You can contact support, email is on the last page of the installation instructions.
What's your oops moment?
Note the design is currently at rev B0
 
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