I did check my instructions, so it was made mention of, nice to know it does not blow up. I also show in my bench test these wires being hooked up.1.) When bench testing, run a jumper from pin 21 to Pin 10 (Grounds). Otherwise votlages on the 80v and -80v are all over, and the CCS LED's flicker out of phase with each other(no ground reference.). Once ground established @ pin 10, everything copasthetic.
In Sendust's unit, pin 1& 2 were jumped so I hard wired them on the pcb. It was the multi-tap transformer primary version. If it was going to be a one of then that would have been okay except I should have accommodated the pins 1 &2. Just these last few days I did a revision, to add this in as an option and fix a few things to make them easier to assemble, not have to lead form as many bjts.2.) When finished with installing, you will have pins 1 & 2 (old board) left over. No pin 1 & 2 on new board as the voltage pick off's are internal to the board now. You can either heatshrink the ends and mark them for later use if you decide to Re-install the original board or remove them completely.
Ah...so there are two versions of the SX1980? I was pretty sure you wouldn't have left techs to figure out how to stop the soft start latching on......Thanks for the feedback guys, very much appreciated,
I did check my instructions, so it was made mention of, nice to know it does not blow up. I also show in my bench test these wires being hooked up.
4) To start, insert only, the AC [#26,#27,#28], the transformer wires [ORG(2),#22,#23; BRN,#21(centre-tap); GRN(2),#19,#20; BLU(2),#24,#25], and terminal #10(chassis ground)] into the terminal blocks, TB2,3,4,13,15. Tighten the terminal blocks with wires/terminals/ferrules inserted. If your unit has some ceramic caps attached, it is fine to leave them alone.
In Sendust's unit, pin 1& 2 were jumped so I hard wired them on the pcb. It was the multi-tap transformer primary version. If it was going to be a one of then that would have been okay except I should have accommodated the pins 1 &2. Just these last few days I did a revision, to add this in as an option and fix a few things to make them easier to assemble, not have to lead form as many bjts.
Cheers
Rick
Thats why it wouldn't be unreasonable to assume its not wired that way....If these extra switch contacts fail, it could smoke the soft-start and thermal fuse, as the relay would never close and short out the big R & T/F. Same as a PS fault. There is little current mA to power the relay coil, so should not be hard on the switch contacts.
Not so sure about that, I do question the contact ratings for that switch section however and if both switch contacts have the same AC ratings.Thats why it wouldn't be unreasonable to assume its not wired that way....
Yes, I believe the contacts have the same rating, so it seems like a nice simple workaround for that issue.Not so sure about that, I do question the contact ratings for that switch section however and if both switch contacts have the same AC ratings.