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Pioneer SX 850 recap list.

You will need decent (temperature controlled?) soldering equipment, and a dmm - if you don't have them, it will eat up a fair amount of cash.

should be a new thread, multi- quote the old parts list to carry it over.
 
I've been browsing Mouser for new trimmers for VR1, VR2, VR3, and VR4 for an SX-850, but I am unsure of which one would be the best replacement. Can anyone suggest a good replacement ?
 
652-3386H-1-101LF 100ohms 3386H Single Turn 3/8" ? 10% parallel to pcb, triangle of pins ccw min#1 triangle lead pattern
sx-850 idle current



652-3296P-1-103LF 10Kohms 3296P Multi Turn : 12 3/8" Sealed parallel to pcb
sx-850 offset voltage adjust- parallel to board
 
How to determine state of a capacitor

Can you help with some insights for my first receiver cleanup project?

I am cleaning a pioneer receiver but as yet not replacing all caps like you. In my unit, under each of the power supply electrolitics there is what appears to be a goppy puddle. It's not wet; it is firm but does allow removal of the cap. These are radial caps soldered on the PCB. Do you know if Pioneer routinely glues these larger caps to the PCB, or should I assume that this stuff has leaked out of the caps??
 
Can you help with some insights for my first receiver cleanup project?

I am cleaning a pioneer receiver but as yet not replacing all caps like you. In my unit, under each of the power supply electrolitics there is what appears to be a goppy puddle. It's not wet; it is firm but does allow removal of the cap. These are radial caps soldered on the PCB. Do you know if Pioneer routinely glues these larger caps to the PCB, or should I assume that this stuff has leaked out of the caps??

Start your own thread:thmbsp:
 
I am sorry. Let me re-phrase to gain from experience of this thread. This thread is about replacement of a complete unit of caps. As you are removing the old caps, do you find that Pioneer routinely glues the larger caps to the PCB, or would you say that any gop under a radial cap is leakage?
 
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It's very rarely leakage. For one, the smaller caps don't really have enough electrolyte to leak, only the really large ones do. Second, electrolyte leakage, when exposed to oxygen, tends to dry and leave deposits that look a lot like the grunge that builds up around your car battery terminals. And it is easily removed from the board. The stuff that sticks to the board and must be scraped or wire-brushed off is -wait for it- dried glue. But, this glue can also react with the metal leads of the caps and other nearby components and create corrosion (perhaps leading to some confusion about the origin of the substance), but the method here is quite different than leaking electrolyte.

Bottom line is, if it's stuck like glue to the PC board, well, you now know that it is indeed glue.
 
My only question for this topic is, why not recap the tuner board while you are in there recapping all the other boards?
 
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