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Polishing a dust cover ~ what went wrong?

I agree with the above statement about jumping from 1000 to 3000 grit. You'd have to spend some time working it over with the 3000 to remove the sanding marks from the 1000. I'd say that's where things went wrong.
 
If you have already done both (outside and inside), then yes, the correction must be done to both.

Do the backside of the cover only (out and in) and see how that works out. Then, if you're happy, do the rest. It really doesn't matter which you tackle first as they both have to be done.

Like I said, it's a bit tedious and you may get a sore wrist, so take your time.
 
I think they sell brand new covers for a little over a hundred dollars, I don't know what you do for a living but it might take less time to just work a few extra hours and buy a brand new one with the extra money you make. Today a hundred dollars is not that much, by the time you pay for sandpaper and that polish your half way there.
 
Great info from those above so not much I can add. I do agree with Ken on a new dust cover, If you intend to keep it. The TD 160 is a great, imho, TT. I have never used grit or machine. I've used polish then Johnson paste wax. It has a way of sort of filling? the deep scratches. I do about 3 dust covers a month, by hand with pieces of flannel sheet. I am not ashamed to say that I have used the Johnson about 40 times on some covers. OCD.....
 
If it's just hazy just use Novus #2 with a buffer, then hand finish again with Novus #2 to remove any swirls. #1 just cleans and shines.

On really bad ones with deep scratches I've gone in with 220/400 grit and a sanding block. Yeah... I am not afraid. A padded sanding block is essential with any grit, to keep the surface flat. You can free hand the deeper scratches. Then 600 wet, Novus #2 with a buffer and hand finish with Novus #2 and shine with #1. Use stuff made specifically for plastic. It will save you time and money.

A lot of these questions have already been answered and tried successfully. There is wealth of information on AK. You just have to find it.

Just like brand new. Good luck!

6.jpg Sansui_SR-838-6.jpg
 
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I checked. A new cover on ebay is about $150.

I got a good deal on this table so a new cover could be rationalized.

I'm just a bit annoyed at myself in diving into this project without much patience. Kinda want to fix it; even if it takes a lot of time.

I'll think about it. Maybe I'll cool off and buy the new one.

BTW, check out the photos on this cover. I can't figure out what is on the left side (as you are looking at the table from the front).

Its shown in 4th pic. Is that a pole or a crease of some sort?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thorens-TD-160-J-n-B-Turntable-Dust-Cover-Hinged-/181976264886
 
It's just not that bad. The right grade of Novus would have that looking good in a half hour or so. The wrong grade of polish might take near to forever.
 
I use a car buffer most all the time now with plastic headlight cleaner. Last time IIRC it was RainX but buy whatever is the one on sale. Must times the cleaner is enough after wet sanding with 400 up to 2K that one time will do it.

Afraid to use a drill to buff on a top. Overheat the top or take too much off. Where a car buffer is designed for the job at hand.


Barney
 
 
I've never worked with some of the products mentioned, so I don't know. They may do the job just fine.

I have only worked with wet-sanding on lacquer for a plinth I built. Gradual sanding steps and patience is key and the results are rewarding.

I have learned one thing in general for this hobby and that is that "only bad things happen fast".

I also agree with Ken Boyd ..... a replacement cover may be worth all the time and energy you may have to expend on this project but I also feel that the experience and knowledge you will gain is worth something that you'll keep forever.

Just for shits and giggles (if you're ok with the $$ for the new cover) I would do both, buy the cover and repair this one.
 
your close to done, and its not that bad
do some more with the plastix
personally at this point i would be using 3m swirl mark remover from the body shop
then the protective coating or wax
worst part is that you've done both sides at once so hard to see where the work needs to be done

btw heed the warning about power tools, they create heat. too much time in one spot and the cover will melt and that is not repairable
 
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