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Polk Audio Monitor 10 Questions

cmcvey

Member
Would someone be able to tell me based of my photo if these are the 10A's or 10B's?
Also, I blew one of the SL 2000 tweeters. Would you recommend a direct replacement? What are the upgrade options?
Seems like there is a lot of hate for the SL 2000 tweeter but they sounded good to me.
I'm a fairly ignorant listener, talk of hz and dbs doesn't mean very much to me but I appreciate quality.
Powering them with a Yamaha CR-2040.
Thanks!
 

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10B with the nasty SL2000 that has a 5dB spike @ 13kHz. The 10A has a Peerless tweeter.

The replacement for your model is the Polk RD0194-1. Get two, one for each speaker. You'll thank me.
I agree! Mine came with the SL-2000's. The RDO-194-1's are smoother and plenty detailed. Later you might think about rebuilding the crossovers.
Replacing the electrolytic caps with polypropylene film caps and maybe replacing the ceramic wirwound resistors with precision wirewound resistors. Also If yours doesn't have a fuse on the back, then the tweeter is protected with a poly switch that will go open if the speakers are pushed too hard, then close again when they cool down.
I have a second pair in rough shape, but with working drivers including still having the SL-2000 tweeters.
Below is a picture of mine with the RDO-194 tweeters, and the sad pair out in my garage. The last two are of what the crossovers look like after rebuilding them.
 

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Thanks for the advice! Was able to quickly trade a tape deck for some SL 2000's to get operating again, quickly.
Will definitely buy the RDO-194-1's in the next few months.
The crossover rebuild is well beyond my knowledge or skillset but would like to find someone to do it for me.
 
Thanks for the advice! Was able to quickly trade a tape deck for some SL 2000's to get operating again, quickly.
Will definitely buy the RDO-194-1's in the next few months.
The crossover rebuild is well beyond my knowledge or skillset but would like to find someone to do it for me.
Great, you got them working!
You CAN always have the original electrolytic caps replaced with same.
Maybe something like Nichicon audio grade electrolytic caps.
It would be cheaper. Polypropylene film caps are what most folks use usually though. Now look for a nice pair of Monitor 7's. ;)
 
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