Polk monitor 10s

[Dswankey]

Thanks for the reply I've definitely got a more clear idea on the age of these

 

[bullet150]

How much do you want to spend?

Seeing how I like how they sound and I've got a pair of magnaplenar mgs I scored awhile back that I'm gonna be selling I'd say 500$ or under but if need be I'd spend more if it would be worth it

 

[bullet150]

How much do you want to spend?

I'm thinking around 500 or under but more if need be. I know one thing I want to upgrade or get I should say is stands for these

 

[F1nut]

I'm thinking around 500 or under but more if need be. I know one thing I want to upgrade or get I should say is stands for these

Ok, upgrade the crossovers. Sonicap caps and Mills resistors. Replace the binding posts and while you're at it dump the fuses. Measure the resistance of each fuse then add that value resistor in each circuit. Normally I'd suggest replacing the stock driver screws with Hurricane nuts and socket head cap screws, but that Mortite has been on them for so long you probably cannot get the drivers/PR loose.

Take a good bit of that money and buy some real speaker cable.

About the stands. There's absolutely no reason to use that short angled stand Polk originally offered. Instead, get some nice 4 post stands that bring the tweeter to ear height.

 

[Dswankey]

^ What about Dynmating the driver baskets? or is that really necessary?

 

[bullet150]

Maybe it’s just because of the perspective, but that cabinet looks deeper than the cabinet on my 10a’s.
Whats the cabinet depth on yours?

Man, I was thinking the very same thing! I bet those babies dig deep with that extra cabinet volume. Looks to be at least 1/3 more than any Model 10s that I've seen.

OP - that's a nice grab for a ten spot. The 1A fuse in all four locations won't hurt anything. Order the right fuses for them and feel free to use those in the interim. As long as you don't go crazy with the volume, you should have no fear of blowing them.

The cabinet dimensions are 11 inches in depth and 28 inches in height

 

[bullet150]

Ok, upgrade the crossovers. Sonicap caps and Mills resistors. Replace the binding posts and while you're at it dump the fuses. Measure the resistance of each fuse then add that value resistor in each circuit. Normally I'd suggest replacing the stock driver screws with Hurricane nuts and socket head cap screws, but that Mortite has been on them for so long you probably cannot get the drivers/PR loose.

Take a good bit of that money and buy some real speaker cable.

About the stands. There's absolutely no reason to use that short angled stand Polk originally offered. Instead, get some nice 4 post stands that bring the tweeter to ear height.

Thanks for the advice I will definitely check around on those

 

[F1nut]

^ What about Dynmating the driver baskets? or is that really necessary?

It's a good idea, but he'd have to remove the drivers and that may be rather difficult.

 

[coonmanx]

What should he do about that small hole in the tweeter? What is the best way to repair it?

 

[galactus2]

What should he do about that small hole in the tweeter? What is the best way to repair it?

Pretty sure the hole in the center is deliberate, and not needing of repair.

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...fy-my-polk-tweeter-from-a-monitor-10a.750718/

Unless it's an actual rip or tear.

 

[StimpyWan]

What should he do about that small hole in the tweeter? What is the best way to repair it?

Yea, the center hole in those Peerless tweeters is by design. I remember seeing it on new Monitor 10's at my local dealer.
So, I'd concentrate on a recap. Tons on examples at the Polk Forum. Also, I'd pull the midwoofers and run a bead of glue around the magnets, as they can shift out of place on these older Polls. And here's some good sources for capacitors:

Parts Express

Parts Connexion

Sonic Craft

Madisound

Meniscus

 

[darkblue94]

What should he do about that small hole in the tweeter? What is the best way to repair it?

Yes the holes in the tweeters were intentionally placed there. Leave them be.

 

[f0427ea]

Yea, the center hole in those Peerless tweeters is by design. I remember seeing it on new Monitor 10's at my local dealer.
So, I'd concentrate on a recap. Tons on examples at the Polk Forum. Also, I'd pull the midwoofers and run a bead of glue around the magnets, as they can shift out of place on these older Polks.

2nd that , it don't take a lot of jiggling around to make those MW 6500 mid-woofer's magnet to shift and lock up the voice coil , I've cleaned with acetone then used JB weld in 4 equal spots on the pole-piece plate and on the basket plate (top and bottom of magnet)

 

[Davedev07]

I upgraded the tweeters on my 10b’s, and really don’t notice too much of a difference. Do twitters need a break in period? The old tweeters had a 1988 sticker in them... any thoughts? Thinking about the crossovers next, but if I couldn’t tell on the tweeters.... maybe my ears need an upgrade...

 

[RTally]

I upgraded the tweeters on my 10b’s, and really don’t notice too much of a difference. Do twitters need a break in period? The old tweeters had a 1988 sticker in them... any thoughts? Thinking about the crossovers next, but if I couldn’t tell on the tweeters.... maybe my ears need an upgrade...

What model were your old tweeters and what did you replace them with? Without that info, there is no way to say if the new ones should sound better.

Definitely replace the caps. Recapping should be the first thing done to old speakers before replacing working tweeters.

 

[Davedev07]

Replaced the older SL2000’s with new Rd0194... I read about potential improvements on AK...

 

[F1nut]

I upgraded the tweeters on my 10b’s, and really don’t notice too much of a difference. Do twitters need a break in period? The old tweeters had a 1988 sticker in them... any thoughts? Thinking about the crossovers next, but if I couldn’t tell on the tweeters.... maybe my ears need an upgrade...

Something is seriously wrong if you couldn't hear the difference.