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Possible Cure for Collapsed Stylus Suspension

boreas

"If it sounds good, it IS good." E.K.E.
I'll start by saying that this may not apply to all styli. Differences in the material used for the suspension bushing may result in different, even disastrous, results.

Okay, the subject of the experiment was a used ADC RXM-I (114-DET). It came to me mounted on an ADC Integra integrated headshell and cartridge. The suspension had largely collapsed. The cantilever wasn't completely bottomed out but it was close. Since the stylus tip showed only a little wear, I decided to try to resurrect it.

Based on some erroneous information on the interwebs, I chose to treat the bushing with WD-40. I had read that the principle ingredient of WD-40 was fish oil and I thought that would be relatively benign. Turns out, however, that WD-40 is petroleum based.

Too late! I had already applied some to the suspension so I just went with it.

Here's what I did. I took a piece if paper and folded it onto a small shim which I then slipped between the cantilever and the stylus grip. This raised the cantilever significantly. I decided to raise it past the point where I believed it should be, thinking that it would slump back a little when the shim was removed. I was right.

After I inserted the shim I sprayed a little bit of WD-40 into a bottle cap and dipped a very small paint brush, about 1/8" wide, into the WD-40. I then proceded to apply WD-40 to both sides of the bushing. (This isn't always possible. On some styli all you can access is the front of the bushing.)

After about an hour I reapplied the WD-40 and, after another hour, I applied more. An hour after that I removed the shim and cleaned off the excess WD-40 with a dry Q-Tip. The stylus didn't spring back on its own but when I pressed on it it did, just a little and just where I hoped it would go. Since then, time and more pushes has made no additional change. I think it worked. The test will be when I listen to it, which I'm about to do.

John
 
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Sounds just fine and looks like this:

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Playing at a VTF of 2.4g. Recommended range 1.5 to 3.0g.

John
 

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We'll call it the Fish Oil Cure from now on. Thanks for taking the risks and doing the experiment.
Now, we'll want to watch what the stylus does over the next few weeks.
 
We'll call it the Fish Oil Cure from now on. Thanks for taking the risks and doing the experiment.
Now, we'll want to watch what the stylus does over the next few weeks.

Yes, very true. So far it has played only one entire album. It finished as it began as far as SRA is concerned and there wasn't a hint of mistracking throughout but it's too brief a test to be conclusive.

The trouble is I'm enjoying the Integra/XLM Improved Mk II too much!:)

John
 
A simple question if you wanted to use fish oil, why didn't you just use some fish oil, something like cod liver oil? Although I would imagine the WD 40 would smell better, and have less dangerous circumstances around cats near the table!
 
A simple question if you wanted to use fish oil, why didn't you just use some fish oil, something like cod liver oil? Although I would imagine the WD 40 would smell better, and have less dangerous circumstances around cats near the table!

As it turns out, WD-40 isn't made with fish oil, despite the net rumor that took me in.

WD-40 has solvents in it that drive the oil into the material you wish to treat. Pure fish oil would pretty much just sit on the surface of the bushing.

And, believe me, my Parson Russell terrier would take care if the cats.

John

PS: it's back in service. I'm going to continue to use it until it fails or proves to me that it won't.
 
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I'm still starting to learn about rubber rejuvenators and restorers, but they all seem to have a couple of things in common: a solvent and/or surfactant, which makes the rubber expand a little and appear softer, and something to fill in the gaps of, or protect, this expansion so the rejuvenation is more or less permanent, depending.

Solvents I've found include toluene, mineral spirits, xylene and d-limonene. Fillers/protectants include carnauba wax and methyl salicylate, aka oil of wintergreen.

boreas: If you think of it, start to collect some of the various products that claim not only to clean but also rejuvenate or restore rubber parts. Motorcycle people use the xylene + oil-of-wintergreen method to soften old carburetor boots. Either way, you've added something to the solution by molding the softened rubber so the repair is more useful and, dare we say, permanent.

Some people have found an old allpurpose household cleaner from the '50s (originally designed in the '30s as a dry cleaning agent) works for them: Lestoil. Contains a solvent (Stoddard solvent, aka dry cleaning solvent aka mineral spirits) and an oil (pine oil). If you find this stuff under your grandmother's sink and give it a try, let us know. Just be careful.
.
 
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We IS brave! I think we is! Maybe!

John, I happen to have the (an?) Integra XLM-I spec sheet and it says the VTF range is 1.5 plus or minus 0.4g, so even 2.0g would be too much. Have you got specs that tell a different story? or was your "2.4g" a typo meant to be 1.4g?
10.JPG
 
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We IS brave! I think we is! Maybe!

John, I happen to have the (an?) Integra XLM-I spec sheet and it says the VTF range is 1.5 plus or minus 0.4g, so even 2.0g would be too much. Have you got specs that tell a different story? or was your "2.4g" a typo meant to be 1.4g?


Damn! I have that too but I fdidn't look at it! I was looking at Gary's listing for the RXM-I! I was thinking that 1.5 to 3.0g was VERY un-Pritchardlike! I'll change it right away, like maybe 1.7 or so.

Dumb, dumb, dumb!

John
 
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Thanks, Earl but I done already got one! And two RXM-IIs and an RXL.

Gary has all of those in stock, by the way.

John

John,

OK, just finish checking Gary's site.

FYI, Sansui-Parts has some assorted ADC stylus, they may have some that is not in stock at Gary's.
(See page two and three in particular.)
http://www.sansui-parts-shop.com/in...TION&searchmethod= AND &searchfor=&num_page=1

Have not compare price with the ones from Gary's site.

Gary usually have way better price as we have all found out! :thmbsp:
 
Earl, do you need a RXL Improved (stylus for the XLM Mk II Improved), by any chance?
 
Boreas this has been a very interesting read. I hope it holds and that you will let us know the status after a few weeks.

So far so good. Probably only around 3 hours in though. I'll update after a few more days and a few more plays.

(I'm a poet and I damn well knowit. ;))

John
 
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