Privacy fence project, input welcomed
- Thread starter roger2
- Start date
sKiZo
Hates received: 92644 43.20°N 85.50°W
Quality treated wood will have chemical saturation to the core anyway, so no biggie in my book. That said, having a bucket of Thompson's to dip the cut ends in couldn't hurt.
Once the fence is in, it's also a good place to get rid of waste oil. Cheap paintbrush and a bucket of motor sludge should seal the wood at least until your next oil change, eh ... ;-}
PS - here's another fence I put up, just digging the holes and ramming dirt. Better than 20 years now and rock solid. Only glass fence I'm aware of on the block too.
You'll notice some sag in the middle of each section - glass if 5/16" safety plate left over from a skyscaper build and HEAVY, putting a lot of stress on the 2/4 runners. I've since put short posts on (not in) concrete pads - once set up, jack up the fence, insert post, repeat as needed.
Fun story on that - Neighbor was wondering about rocks and ice (not to mention his kids) hitting the glass. I picked up a good size rock from a nearby tree box and heaved it into a panel ... it bounced.
Once the fence is in, it's also a good place to get rid of waste oil. Cheap paintbrush and a bucket of motor sludge should seal the wood at least until your next oil change, eh ... ;-}
PS - here's another fence I put up, just digging the holes and ramming dirt. Better than 20 years now and rock solid. Only glass fence I'm aware of on the block too.
You'll notice some sag in the middle of each section - glass if 5/16" safety plate left over from a skyscaper build and HEAVY, putting a lot of stress on the 2/4 runners. I've since put short posts on (not in) concrete pads - once set up, jack up the fence, insert post, repeat as needed.
Fun story on that - Neighbor was wondering about rocks and ice (not to mention his kids) hitting the glass. I picked up a good size rock from a nearby tree box and heaved it into a panel ... it bounced.
Very creative @sKiZo . I note that you have a good eye as a photographer as well, capturing those fall colors nicely.
With gravel underneath, tops formed to drain with concrete sealed tight against the wood...I will be off to a decent start I think. I intend to look into sealing the below grade part at least. The above ground wood will all be primed and painted probably next spring or summer.
With gravel underneath, tops formed to drain with concrete sealed tight against the wood...I will be off to a decent start I think. I intend to look into sealing the below grade part at least. The above ground wood will all be primed and painted probably next spring or summer.
And an FYI to everyone posting, or watching, here...I am slow. Not only slow moving physically, but also slow to action as I try to learn before doing, as opposed to getting it done quickly, and afterwards wishing I had done things differently. Your patience will be appreciated 
I learned some ways to tie-off mason line that I will be using: Larks head (aka cow hitch), fiddle string (aka engineers knot), and binder (friction) knot
Good video, the guy is a good teacher. I had to slow the video down to 1/2 or 1/4 to see what he was doing a couple places. But I got them, and they will be better than what I was doing before.
Good video, the guy is a good teacher. I had to slow the video down to 1/2 or 1/4 to see what he was doing a couple places. But I got them, and they will be better than what I was doing before.
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Just ordered this gate frame kit
Estimated delivery date August 31
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Adjust-...0-in-W-Kit-Contractor-Series-AG36-3/202024399
Estimated delivery date August 31
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Adjust-...0-in-W-Kit-Contractor-Series-AG36-3/202024399
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Perhaps I can piggyback off rogers thread.
I have an existing cinder block wall and would like to add about 3 feet of wooden privacy fencing on top.
The question is, can I drill the anchor bolts into the mortar joints of the cinder block.
Down through the cement wall cap into the mortar joint without causing a split?
Thanks, roger
I have an existing cinder block wall and would like to add about 3 feet of wooden privacy fencing on top.
The question is, can I drill the anchor bolts into the mortar joints of the cinder block.
Down through the cement wall cap into the mortar joint without causing a split?
Thanks, roger
I decided not to use the pickets that I got earlier this week at Menards. As mentioned previously, they are wet, as though they have had little if any proper drying. And the green chemical treatment just doesn't look right, blotchy, uneven with green-blue concentrations in some areas and not much in other areas, as though it is just sitting on the surface of the wood. I was reading reviews for Lowes' similar 6' treated pickets, as I was not able to find reviews on Menard's website. The Lowes treated pine pickets actually look much better then the ones I got from Menards. But the user reviews at Lowes are very negative, citing splitting and warping that occurs almost immediately after installation. The pickets sitting in my garage for a couple days are already warping. So, one step back...
I hadn't been aware that pre-cut cedar pickets were made until I saw them on the websites. So those are what I have decided to use. However, no one has them in stock. Lowe's in Carmel, IN website said 135 in stock so I drove there today, about 45 miles, but there were only two unusable cedar pickets to be found. They said I can't order them. The contractor desk guy at Menards also told me I can't order them.
But... I guess I can wait on the pickets and go ahead with the rest. The pickets are not structural. If nothing else, I could tack up some lattice over the fence frame temporarily while waiting for decent pickets to become available.
In other news...I was able to find good looking 2x4 treated lumber at Menards and brought home 4 ten foot, and 4 eight foot pieces of that. That should be enough for the entire project including the gate.
I hadn't been aware that pre-cut cedar pickets were made until I saw them on the websites. So those are what I have decided to use. However, no one has them in stock. Lowe's in Carmel, IN website said 135 in stock so I drove there today, about 45 miles, but there were only two unusable cedar pickets to be found. They said I can't order them. The contractor desk guy at Menards also told me I can't order them.
But... I guess I can wait on the pickets and go ahead with the rest. The pickets are not structural. If nothing else, I could tack up some lattice over the fence frame temporarily while waiting for decent pickets to become available.
In other news...I was able to find good looking 2x4 treated lumber at Menards and brought home 4 ten foot, and 4 eight foot pieces of that. That should be enough for the entire project including the gate.
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An update...after two months of time flying by I have been very busy working on fence related projects in addition to "normal" everyday life stuff.
---Had to do some related projects prior to beginning the fence itself. New outdoor water spigot and electrical outlet. Will need them for the project, didn't have them.
---The original new 21' fence project has now expanded. Upon inspection of a portion of the existing fence near the new project, I found a 35' section to be on its last legs, one of posts literally rotted through completely and being help up by what was left of the rails. Also a couple smaller individual parts of yet other sections that were crying out for some attention.
--- But the biggest problem has been pressure treated lumber warping and splitting. I spend a lot of time picking only the best looking boards. Ten days later those nice boards are warped, twisted, and splitting. I have wasted a lot of both time and energy choosing, transporting, re-transporting...then going through the cycle again
I believe the lumber issues are happening because it is too wet. When I first looked for treated lumber in late summer at Lowes, the racks were practically bare. Demand is/was high because of people sitting home during the Covid crisis. So the mills rush it to the retail sellers, and it gets grabbed up almost immediately. A lot of what I bought was so moist that I could feel it with my hand. I later verified my suspicions with a moisture meter...some of the wetter pieces were in the 40% range. Old wood is under 10% by comparison. A few of the treated pieces I have brought home are more reasonable at around 15% give or take, but not nearly enough to do the project, and those good boards are 10' rails, not posts.
I have been very busy working on fence related projects in addition to "normal" everyday life stuff.---Had to do some related projects prior to beginning the fence itself. New outdoor water spigot and electrical outlet. Will need them for the project, didn't have them.
---The original new 21' fence project has now expanded. Upon inspection of a portion of the existing fence near the new project, I found a 35' section to be on its last legs, one of posts literally rotted through completely and being help up by what was left of the rails. Also a couple smaller individual parts of yet other sections that were crying out for some attention.
--- But the biggest problem has been pressure treated lumber warping and splitting. I spend a lot of time picking only the best looking boards. Ten days later those nice boards are warped, twisted, and splitting. I have wasted a lot of both time and energy choosing, transporting, re-transporting...then going through the cycle again
I believe the lumber issues are happening because it is too wet. When I first looked for treated lumber in late summer at Lowes, the racks were practically bare. Demand is/was high because of people sitting home during the Covid crisis. So the mills rush it to the retail sellers, and it gets grabbed up almost immediately. A lot of what I bought was so moist that I could feel it with my hand. I later verified my suspicions with a moisture meter...some of the wetter pieces were in the 40% range. Old wood is under 10% by comparison. A few of the treated pieces I have brought home are more reasonable at around 15% give or take, but not nearly enough to do the project, and those good boards are 10' rails, not posts.
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So at this point I have only 5 good 4x4 posts remaining from the ones bought. I need 11.
And running out of time before winter. I am reluctant to continue buying treated lumber posts, or to take posts straight off the shelf and sink them in holes, because I have seen that about 50% of the ones I brought home went bad in very short order. What am I doing wrong? I did not stack them in a bad way to cause warping or cracking.
A couple questions:
----Is there anything I can do to prevent the treated lumber posts from warping and/or cracking? I have already looked into various end sealers and general sealers....I don't believe there is an answer there...but clearly I don't know it all, lol
---Or what about galvanized steel posts? Do any of you have experience with, or knowledge about, using steel posts for a picket fence? There appear to be a few companies making brackets to fit standard 2 3/8" diameter pipe and allow attaching wooden rails. Or is there special pipe made for picket fencing as opposed to chain-link fencing?
And running out of time before winter. I am reluctant to continue buying treated lumber posts, or to take posts straight off the shelf and sink them in holes, because I have seen that about 50% of the ones I brought home went bad in very short order. What am I doing wrong? I did not stack them in a bad way to cause warping or cracking.
A couple questions:
----Is there anything I can do to prevent the treated lumber posts from warping and/or cracking? I have already looked into various end sealers and general sealers....I don't believe there is an answer there...but clearly I don't know it all, lol
---Or what about galvanized steel posts? Do any of you have experience with, or knowledge about, using steel posts for a picket fence? There appear to be a few companies making brackets to fit standard 2 3/8" diameter pipe and allow attaching wooden rails. Or is there special pipe made for picket fencing as opposed to chain-link fencing?
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audiodummy
Well-Known Member
late to party but some words about privacy fencing...
- it's not guvmints that's wanting good side out, it's your HOA.
- cement it. but not a solid block, put lots of rocks or sand underneath the post, do not let dirt or concrete touch on bottom
- be prepared to replace it every so often regardless.
- and your neighbor needs to fix/replace theirs too if it's attached to yours.
My "good side in" fence needs a new post but it's my neighbor's broken post... So much for HOA 'community' fences, wonder if it's up to my HOA to fix this...
- it's not guvmints that's wanting good side out, it's your HOA.
- cement it. but not a solid block, put lots of rocks or sand underneath the post, do not let dirt or concrete touch on bottom
- be prepared to replace it every so often regardless.
- and your neighbor needs to fix/replace theirs too if it's attached to yours.
My "good side in" fence needs a new post but it's my neighbor's broken post... So much for HOA 'community' fences, wonder if it's up to my HOA to fix this...