Problems with input/output on TEAC A-2300S RTR

[Miguell]

Hey y'all I need some help! Just got my hands on a Teac A-2300S Reel to Reel Deck. I figured out pretty quickly that the Pinch Roller and Tape Lifter Arms were super sticky (as happens to these all the time). Opened up the back, pulled those mechanisms out, cleaned, oiled, and put it all back together (all while being super careful of the other components). After getting it all back together all of the mechanical mechanisms work perfectly. Play, fast forward, and reverse all work super smoothly.

The problem I am now trying to decode is a total lack of signal. The VU meters are not responding to any input through the mic or line inputs and the outputs (line and phones) are radio silent. I have checked the circuit boards and nothing seems to be out of place or clearly broken (granted I have very limited knowledge on what broken would look like on that front). This lack of signal is also consistent whether on source or tape monitoring modes. Any ideas or advice would be appreciated so much as this is driving me absolutely crazy.

It is also definitely worth mentioning that, prior to working on the pinch roller and tape lifter arms, the deck was properly receiving and monitoring input signals through the mic inputs while in source mode.

Thanks to all who read this and even more thanks to those who can help in any way!!

 

[spicer]

Do the meters move with a recorded tape. I used to have one of those, can't remember but it seems like the output control has to be turned up... it seems like the recommended setting for play level set in the manual was the two o'clock position. Anyway, seems very unlikely you would have affected anything from what you did especially since transport functions are good and you were very careful. If I remember right no boards have to be removed or unplugged to service the areas you mentioned. It has to be in record mode to receive signals from inputs, referring to the slide switches... I think so but don't remember well enough to say.

 

[Miguell]

Do the meters move with a recorded tape. I used to have one of those, can't remember but it seems like the output control has to be turned up... it seems like the recommended setting for play level set in the manual was the two o'clock position. Anyway, seems very unlikely you would have affected anything from what you did especially since transport functions are good and you were very careful. If I remember right no boards have to be removed or unplugged to service the areas you mentioned. It has to be in record mode to receive signals from inputs, referring to the slide switches... I think so but don't remember well enough to say.

I don't actually have any pre-recorded tapes. Just was gifted this tape deck by a friend who had come up on a few RTR's, all he gave me with it was a blank tape reel. Yeah I found in the service manual that the output knob has to be set to around 2/3 o'clock for everything to work which I've done and tried in every other possible combo lol. Its really racking my brain cuz the source monitoring was working before I worked on the other components and yeah Im really confident I didnt accidentally mess up any of the amp circuits or anything of the sort. Think I might try and disassemble everything I worked on and reassemble just to make sure I didn't muck anything up there.

 

[62vauxhall]

Ask that friend to give or loan you a tape with something (anything) recorded on it so you can at least check if there is playback signal.

Tape/Source monitor switch is in the right position?
Record Mode switches are in the right position?

I danced around with an A2300SD for over 7 years before it began working properly. Every time one problem was corrected, another manifested. During the course of that exercise, I was advised that switches incorported in that series had a tendancy to become problematic from oxidation. In the case of my 2300SD, I was focused on the front toggle switches and shot cleaner into those at least five times followed by flicking up/down 100 times.

In my case, the last culprit was a slide switch on the back panel that i never even considered. Your S version does not have that.

But for sure I got the front panel toggles clean.

If you wish to get contact cleaner inside those toggle switches, open the image in a new tab zoom in. It's low rez, the best I could manage, but either the top row or lower row of screws circled in red must be removed so cleaner can be introduced inside each switch. The screw hole is large enough for a spray straw.



.

 

[spicer]

I don't actually have any pre-recorded tapes. Just was gifted this tape deck by a friend who had come up on a few RTR's, all he gave me with it was a blank tape reel. Yeah I found in the service manual that the output knob has to be set to around 2/3 o'clock for everything to work which I've done and tried in every other possible combo lol. Its really racking my brain cuz the source monitoring was working before I worked on the other components and yeah Im really confident I didnt accidentally mess up any of the amp circuits or anything of the sort. Think I might try and disassemble everything I worked on and reassemble just to make sure I didn't muck anything up there.

Hmmm.... as a one time tech the quick and dirty test I would to is put the machine in play, capstan engaged holding tape entry and exit arms up and touch play head wires with my fingers to see if hum was induced, the meters will show it... monitor in tape position, head cover removed, gain up. If you see that it almost for sure would play a tape. I keep thinking pilot error here but you seem competent with hook up and operation... still though very easy to overlook the obvious, we all do it. Good advice on cleaning the switches too, move them back and forth while testing for play or input signal, if problem should give signal, at least static scratch.

 

[Dshrews]

I don't know if any of the above responders will read this post but I will add my reply for future readers who have had the same problem.

Like the in the first post I too had the same problem with my input and output not working after repairing the pinch roller. After much frustration I have found root cause. In repairing the pinch roller I had to remove the power circuit board shown in the photo below. In removing the board a mica insulator was attached to the right screw. When I reinstalled the board I incorrectly placed the insulator so the heat sync of the power transistor was now grounded to the case. This caused a resistor R6 3.3ohm 2w located on the power board on the right side of the RtR to overheat and smoke. I spent far to much time troubleshooting the power board on the right side and not looking at the power board I removed when fixing the pinch roller. After determining that the power board on the right was fine I went back to the steps I took to repair the pinch roller. I removed the power board from the back of the unit and powered the RtR back up and low and behold it started working. I had lost the mica insulator and reinstalled the board with the transistor not touching the board and it worked fine. So if you are having this issue it is that the power transistor heat sync is ground to the case and not insulated.

I hope this help.

 

[oldvinyldude]

Hi Dshrews-thanks for your post. It always surprises me that a significant percentage of "electronic" gremlins are in fact, mechanical in nature. A recent thread that went 3-4 pages, where there was no output from a cassette deck. Eventually, after the OP measuring numerous voltages in and around a couple logic chips, the fault was found-a bad solder joint.

Having scant troubleshooting skills in the electronics (and logic) area, I am heartened to learn these mechanical resolutions are still possible, despite all the elegant, complicated electronics present.

 

[safebet]

@Dshrews Welcome aboard! And thank you for posting helpful information. This is the spirit and purpose of AK.

 

[bigmattt]

I don't know if any of the above responders will read this post but I will add my reply for future readers who have had the same problem.

Like the in the first post I too had the same problem with my input and output not working after repairing the pinch roller. After much frustration I have found root cause. In repairing the pinch roller I had to remove the power circuit board shown in the photo below. In removing the board a mica insulator was attached to the right screw. When I reinstalled the board I incorrectly placed the insulator so the heat sync of the power transistor was now grounded to the case. This caused a resistor R6 3.3ohm 2w located on the power board on the right side of the RtR to overheat and smoke. I spent far to much time troubleshooting the power board on the right side and not looking at the power board I removed when fixing the pinch roller. After determining that the power board on the right was fine I went back to the steps I took to repair the pinch roller. I removed the power board from the back of the unit and powered the RtR back up and low and behold it started working. I had lost the mica insulator and reinstalled the board with the transistor not touching the board and it worked fine. So if you are having this issue it is that the power transistor heat sync is ground to the case and not insulated.

I hope this help. View attachment 2625196 View attachment 2625198 View attachment 2625198

Thanks for sharing. This was exactly the issue I had with a 2300S. Thanks again.

 

[Phaceless56]

bigmattt welcome to AK and thanks for the piece of info I picked up a Teac 2300s and before testing the unit I too removed power board to get to the pinch roller so as to remove it and put fresh oil so now it moves freely but no sound in or out source or tape nothing until I found your post I took the power board off and made sure this time it was not grounding the transistor and now I have sound beautiful sound Thanks Again

 

[mcgjohn]

Hey y'all I need some help! Just got my hands on a Teac A-2300S Reel to Reel Deck. I figured out pretty quickly that the Pinch Roller and Tape Lifter Arms were super sticky (as happens to these all the time). Opened up the back, pulled those mechanisms out, cleaned, oiled, and put it all back together (all while being super careful of the other components). After getting it all back together all of the mechanical mechanisms work perfectly. Play, fast forward, and reverse all work super smoothly.

The problem I am now trying to decode is a total lack of signal. The VU meters are not responding to any input through the mic or line inputs and the outputs (line and phones) are radio silent. I have checked the circuit boards and nothing seems to be out of place or clearly broken (granted I have very limited knowledge on what broken would look like on that front). This lack of signal is also consistent whether on source or tape monitoring modes. Any ideas or advice would be appreciated so much as this is driving me absolutely crazy.

It is also definitely worth mentioning that, prior to working on the pinch roller and tape lifter arms, the deck was properly receiving and monitoring input signals through the mic inputs while in source mode.

Thanks to all who read this and even more thanks to those who can help in any way!!

you may have to clean and lube the mechanism that is reached by removing the front panel. If the tape guides do not move up all the way, the tape will not get close enough to the heads to create a signal.

 

[oldvinyldude]

If the tape guides do not move up all the way, the tape will not get close enough to the heads to create a signal.

This should not effect the signal from the source to be present when selector is set to source-correct?

 

[Phaceless56]

Thanks for that tip mcgjohn I have lubricated all that I could see I even ordered oil to lubricate the motors via the small tube on the back of each motor. Now everything has been lubricated and cleaned with Deoxit. This came with the original owner's manual there is lots of info about this deck in there

 

[Phaceless56]

Yes oldvinyldude I believe you are correct I start out with source to set the input level a little red never hurt anyone then back to tape so I hear what the recorded tape should sound like

 

[Phaceless56]

These machines sound so good one day I hope to own a RT-909 until then these are great for making a mix tape or record the latest vinyl and they look good with my gear

 

[mcgjohn]

This should not effect the signal from the source to be present when selector is set to source-correct?

correct, should not affect the signal from source. just from tape.

 

[abbeyrd]

I don't know if any of the above responders will read this post but I will add my reply for future readers who have had the same problem.

Like the in the first post I too had the same problem with my input and output not working after repairing the pinch roller. After much frustration I have found root cause. In repairing the pinch roller I had to remove the power circuit board shown in the photo below. In removing the board a mica insulator was attached to the right screw. When I reinstalled the board I incorrectly placed the insulator so the heat sync of the power transistor was now grounded to the case. This caused a resistor R6 3.3ohm 2w located on the power board on the right side of the RtR to overheat and smoke. I spent far to much time troubleshooting the power board on the right side and not looking at the power board I removed when fixing the pinch roller. After determining that the power board on the right was fine I went back to the steps I took to repair the pinch roller. I removed the power board from the back of the unit and powered the RtR back up and low and behold it started working. I had lost the mica insulator and reinstalled the board with the transistor not touching the board and it worked fine. So if you are having this issue it is that the power transistor heat sync is ground to the case and not insulated.

I hope this help. View attachment 2625196 View attachment 2625198 View attachment 2625198

 

[abbeyrd]

Dshrews! I know this is an old post, but I wanted to say thank you. I had the exact issue you described and of course same thing with the heat sink being shorted to the frame. Amazing to even find this solution with all my searching!​