Alpha Lima
Treading Water
I was looking to improve on my Yamaha RX-797 receiver, in my 2-channel system. It had to be remote controllable and be able to handle my efficient but power-loving Klipsch Epic CF-4s. Always a fan of NAD, I thought one of their integrated amps would do the trick. I nearly pulled the trigger on a C370, a few weeks ago, but decided to instead go for one of their highly rated ‘BEE models.
So about a week ago, I saw a guy about an NAD C356BEE, which got some great reviews (including a glowing one by Catcher10, here). Hooked up to a pair of Boston Acoustic VR-M50 monitors, it sounded fantastic! I played with the controls a little, but the guy said the remote was missing. No problem, I have two Logitech Harmony remotes.
$300 was an excellent price, so I took it. He was a friendly guy who used to work at my favorite stereo store (the late, lamented MyerEmco), back in its heyday! He packed up the NAD in its original box with the manual and even carried it to my car. Nice!
I hooked it up, the next evening, and I immediately noticed a big improvement in the sound. The soundstage was much bigger and more accurate, with more powerful and controlled bass.
The first problem was noticed when I went to turn it off, after a couple of hours: there was a serious heat spot on the right side of the top of the case, just behind the volume knob. Part of it was uncomfortably warm to the touch. And this was on the opposite side of the case from the power supply and amp section! The volume knob was at around the 7 o'clock position, the whole time, and I had only played a total of an hour of music. The Yamaha barely heats up after hours of being cranked.
Here's a link to an image of the inside of the amp: https://www.audiotrends.com.au/sldigital/shop/images/gallery_2186.jpg
The heat appears to be coming from around the small heatsinks mounted near the volume pot, in the lower right-hand corner.
But then again, some amps run hot.
So, the next day, I programmed my Harmony One and Harmony 650 remotes. Nothing.
I was a bit off-axis from the sensor window, where I was sitting, so I stood right in front of it. Again, nothing. And all the other components responded fine.
So I program an older Sony universal remote with NAD codes. Nada.
Looking back, I’m now very suspicious. These two problems were things I wasn’t able to check (or thought I had to) before I paid the guy and took the NAD home. He had a nice, clean house and used to be a high-end stereo salesman. Though I still don’t want to, I must now think he still had the remote and used tricks of the trade to sell me something he knew was defective. I have repeatedly asked him if he would make things right and take the NAD back for a full refund, but he said it all worked fine when I bought it. Sure.
So, what can I do about these two problems? Get it fixed at potentially great expense? Buy a remote control preamp and use the ‘356 as a power amplifier? Use the Yamaha as the preamp?
Your advice is most welcome, fellow AK denizens.
Thanks.
Alpha Lima
So about a week ago, I saw a guy about an NAD C356BEE, which got some great reviews (including a glowing one by Catcher10, here). Hooked up to a pair of Boston Acoustic VR-M50 monitors, it sounded fantastic! I played with the controls a little, but the guy said the remote was missing. No problem, I have two Logitech Harmony remotes.
$300 was an excellent price, so I took it. He was a friendly guy who used to work at my favorite stereo store (the late, lamented MyerEmco), back in its heyday! He packed up the NAD in its original box with the manual and even carried it to my car. Nice!
I hooked it up, the next evening, and I immediately noticed a big improvement in the sound. The soundstage was much bigger and more accurate, with more powerful and controlled bass.
The first problem was noticed when I went to turn it off, after a couple of hours: there was a serious heat spot on the right side of the top of the case, just behind the volume knob. Part of it was uncomfortably warm to the touch. And this was on the opposite side of the case from the power supply and amp section! The volume knob was at around the 7 o'clock position, the whole time, and I had only played a total of an hour of music. The Yamaha barely heats up after hours of being cranked.
Here's a link to an image of the inside of the amp: https://www.audiotrends.com.au/sldigital/shop/images/gallery_2186.jpg
The heat appears to be coming from around the small heatsinks mounted near the volume pot, in the lower right-hand corner.
But then again, some amps run hot.
So, the next day, I programmed my Harmony One and Harmony 650 remotes. Nothing.
I was a bit off-axis from the sensor window, where I was sitting, so I stood right in front of it. Again, nothing. And all the other components responded fine.
So I program an older Sony universal remote with NAD codes. Nada.
Looking back, I’m now very suspicious. These two problems were things I wasn’t able to check (or thought I had to) before I paid the guy and took the NAD home. He had a nice, clean house and used to be a high-end stereo salesman. Though I still don’t want to, I must now think he still had the remote and used tricks of the trade to sell me something he knew was defective. I have repeatedly asked him if he would make things right and take the NAD back for a full refund, but he said it all worked fine when I bought it. Sure.
So, what can I do about these two problems? Get it fixed at potentially great expense? Buy a remote control preamp and use the ‘356 as a power amplifier? Use the Yamaha as the preamp?
Your advice is most welcome, fellow AK denizens.
Thanks.
Alpha Lima