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Proton: High End Or Junk?

I've seen that happen to Gustard DAC-X20 and other anodized black stuff... My guess is the dye they use can fade with UV or other stuff, I've seen that on sun exposed aluminum parts, or that Gustard DAC-X20 on my rack.

BTW, if you ever find a Proton that uses TO-3 power transistors, or anything with a suffix "PRO".... Take care of it. Also recap EVERYTHING, and replace all of the wires that you can.

Proton have a habit of using very low quality PVC insulated wires, and over time, the plastic somehow become porous and all of the copper strands in it will oxidize. Replace them with something better.

Also the electrolytic caps, especially the smaller ones (Snap-in ones are usually made by Nichicon and other reputable companies, so they are usually fine), I once did small cap replacement with my proton preamp (forgot the model number, but the one with XLR output), and holy that sounds so so so much better after a few hours of burn-in with the new caps.

I have personally visited the company that used to supply torodial transformers to Proton, and the owner of the company is also a very good engineer. If you see a torodial transformer in your proton, it usually indicates that Proton was not cutting a lot of corners with that machine, and some recapping and a bit of wire replacement would usually do some magic.
Thank you very much for the tips zycamaniac ! Much appreciated !
My amp is in a position to cop strong afternoon sun when i leave the curtains drawn open. Strong possibility the black dye could be UV reactive after time. I dont recall this amp being that color 2 or 3 years ago when i bought it, which means i cant vouch for its treatment before then.
Compared with the similar aged 930, they are two extremely different colors.
I might put the 930 out on the rear deck to expose it for a few weeks to see if it can follow the 540s' lead. ;-)

EDIT: haha found an old pic dated Sept 2013, how time flies. Thought it was only a few years ago i bought it.

P1090690.JPG

Compared

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Far from junk.
I would put a Proton AP1000 up against any preamp-tube or SS under $5k.
It's that good!
Not a tube-ss sound-just good!
As is the phono section-no need for a outboard unit.
TRUE dual mono design.
Tone controls that are actually helpful-if you need them-including mid.
Don't ever recap-just repair as needed w/like parts
Biggest issue is the selector switches getting dirty.
Those will look like they are a pain.
There easy.
Use the Deoxit straw-point on each side of the switch through the top opening-first with the front tilted down.
You can see them in the middle of the 2 long rectangular switch boxes on the right rear.
Then the back tilted down.
Run knobs back and forth-20-30 times.
Then repeat.
Same with the other switch.
Clean up any excess on the pc board.
Clean all the pots when your in there.
Deoxit D5.
You should be good!
Proton ap1000-2.jpg
Proton AP10007.jpg
Proton ap1000-8.jpg
The euro version are 110/220-plus IEC removable power cord.
In some respects-it really sounds better then my Van Alsine Transcendence 10RB.
Pretty lofty company IMHO.
More versatile for sure.
Hard to find-for good reason.
If you find one-buy it!!
 
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820097B8-CD7A-400A-A5C9-EF727A6E81DB.jpeg
Currently in use in my 1.5 system
Driving a H/K Signature 1.5.
You can just see the Schiit Modi 3+ light at the top- for the Sony Changer.
Below covered is a AKAI reel reck.
H/K T45 Denon DL170 on top.
The 1.0 system half is on a pier on the other side of the wall to the left.
Van Alstine Transcendence tube preamp
Lap top
H/K PA2400-Polk XM Tuner Proton D440 tuner
SCHITT BF2
Marantz Pro CD changer
Marantz pro DVD
Technics SA-600 under tv
Currently running the AMT3’s
Mojo modded AMT3’s
Infinity RSiiia
Soon to be Mojo modified.
Wireworld interconnects opticals coax exclusively
BJC speaker wire.
This system will stay as is.
It would’t grow
Don’t want, don’t need anything else!!
If it breaks I’ll fix it.
That said
The AP 1000 is worth any repair effort.
It’s really in rare preamp territory.
Unless your regularly spending 5k or up on preamps
Every time I use it it continues to amaze!!
 
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I just got my Proton p1100 preamp up and running. The right channel was sketchy. I was prepared for a recap and new power transistors but a little resolder and a lot of electrical cleaner to the input (listen) switch and she is up and running. I do mean a lot of electrical cleaner! This is a horizontal sliding switch not like a typical rotary switch and it seems to be more prone to poor contact with age.

It sounds good. No back to back, but I had it in the system I have been testing preamps and it is no slouch. One key feature of this preamp is variable input capacitance on the phono input. I was surprised how well my AT12Sa cartridge responded to 300uf capacitance in that system.

Because of the less than stellar quality of the pc boards, this pre will not be a daily driver like my Yamaha preamps but it definately has a place in one of my basement systems.

Definately not junk.
 
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Does anybody know where to get an AP1000 repaired in the Portland OR area. Took mine to two shops, both said not reparable. The problem was the op-amps they said. I hate to junk it.
 
There is probably no component in your AP1000 that cannot be replaced or substituted with minimal effort. Op amps are substituted/upgraded every day if that is really the problem. Keep trying in your area or consider sending it to someone willing to work on it. Please don't junk it.
 
@oldhifiguy I am starting work on a Proton 1200 and intend to replace the opamp and am in San Fran.

send me a message and I will let you know how that progresses. If it is successful maybe the same approach can be applied to the 1000
 
Just OK. Sorry for the thread jack.
2002-Kenny-Roberts-Proton-KR3-Nobuatsu-Aoki-Right-Side.jpg
 
They sound excellent if you can keep it running well that's great. I have a friend that use to work there and I bought so many stuffs from them. They sound great but the repair always come in.
 
As for the initial question, "Proton: High End Or Junk?" a paraphrase of Henry Ford's comment by Vince Lombardi might be most appropriate.

Whether you thing you're a winner, or think you're a loser, you're probably right.
 
Hello fellow gearheads. I just ordered an AA-1150 from Hawthorne Stereo in Seattle. Wow they have some really nice used stuff! Had to give them a plug. I already have a Nikko Alpha III from them that basically looks brand new. I highly recommend checking them out.

 
Hello fellow gearheads. I just ordered an AA-1150 from Hawthorne Stereo in Seattle. Wow they have some really nice used stuff! Had to give them a plug. I already have a Nikko Alpha III from them that basically looks brand new. I highly recommend checking them out.

Congrats. They sound superb! My close friend use to work there and I bought lots of stuffs from them directly. Mostly car stereo and amps.
I'm big Alpine guy in the 80's till today. Proton came out with the model 212 shafted car stereo. It was right on par with the Alpine. What a jaw dropper. I was begging my friend to get me one. The model got discontinued. They came out with the modern pro-logic to compete with Nakamichi. The sound was excellent but the built is not that good. As yers go by the push bottom start falling apart by themselves. But over all on the home hifi stereo, They're excellent. Enjoy!
 
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