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Question about FM antenna I made

Pouring gallons of water slowly around the grounding rod and letting the water percolate around it will vastly improve your ground. We used to use this trick on our farm during dry periods for the grounding rod of a electrical fence. It vastly helped the electric fence operate correctly.
 
Pouring gallons of water slowly around the grounding rod and letting the water percolate around it will vastly improve your ground. We used to use this trick on our farm during dry periods for the grounding rod of a electrical fence. It vastly helped the electric fence operate correctly.
Peeing on it works better, believe it or not. Stays wetter longer (more fun, too!)
 
After reading your long reply on grounding I made a grounding stake. I have a 44 in. iron stake that is 7/8 dia. I also have several pieces of 7/8 copper tubing but there all about 10 ins. long & slightly bent. I hammered them into the stake & soldered them together. I know it’s not long enough, 3’ 6” but something is better than nothing. I have a brass grounding clamp also & enough 10 ga. stranded wire,not perfect but it’ll have to do. Question is if I connect the ground to the antenna will it have a negative effect on the reception? Thanks for any info!
Just spend the money on a copper-plated 8'ground rod, they're cheap. Your home-made one may not survive the pounding to install. (Sorry, but this is no place to cheap out. ) Also, an in-line ground block for your coax is called for.
 
Got it hammered into the ground. The soil here is not dirt, it’s limestone. I couldn’t imagine hammering in 8 ft. unless I had a pneumatic hammed. Anyhow it work fine.
 
They make an electric hammer tool for driving them in. You can probably rent one. I would have went with a new copper clad steel rod as well $12.98 at my local Home Depot. Remember, that second rod has to be bonded to you home’s main ground rod which is probably near the service entrance. Otherwise you create a ground loop through your equipment and also an alternate path to ground for any surges that come in through the main electric service, also through your equipment.

I live in south La. and there isn’t any stone in the ground and it’s moist. I can “get away” with a shorter rod here because of the conductivity of the ground , but in an area like yours, It’s important that the longer rod is driven deep to where the contact with the earth is better.

when I said it isn’t all or nothing regarding effective grounding, that was in the spirit of a single proper ground rod bonded to the existing ground system, not compromises that may affect the ability of the system to perform. Just some copper tubing in the dirt could be worse than none in some cases. This is a critical component and the tubing over the steel rod may be fine until water seeps in the tubing between the steel and copper and begins to rust and corrode. Over time, this may affect the useful performance of the rod as an absorber. I don’t know for sure, but I do know it would fail an electrical inspection here.
 
They make an electric hammer tool for driving them in. You can probably rent one. I would have went with a new copper clad steel rod as well $12.98 at my local Home Depot. Remember, that second rod has to be bonded to you home’s main ground rod which is probably near the service entrance. Otherwise you create a ground loop through your equipment and also an alternate path to ground for any surges that come in through the main electric service, also through your equipment.

I live in south La. and there isn’t any stone in the ground and it’s moist. I can “get away” with a shorter rod here because of the conductivity of the ground , but in an area like yours, It’s important that the longer rod is driven deep to where the contact with the earth is better.

when I said it isn’t all or nothing regarding effective grounding, that was in the spirit of a single proper ground rod bonded to the existing ground system, not compromises that may affect the ability of the system to perform. Just some copper tubing in the dirt could be worse than none in some cases. This is a critical component and the tubing over the steel rod may be fine until water seeps in the tubing between the steel and copper and begins to rust and corrode. Over time, this may affect the useful performance of the rod as an absorber. I don’t know for sure, but I do know it would fail an electrical inspection here.
Can I bond with the original grounding by using the ground wires in one of the electrical outlets in the house?
 
Can I bond with the original grounding by using the ground wires in one of the electrical outlets in the house?
No,that would theoretically send a lightning discharge exactly where you won't want it through a too-small conductor. (As in through your house). Ground to breaker panel ground/neutral bus or the existing ground rod. Perhaps research NEC (national electrical code) section pertaining lightning protection &grounding. I'll fwd specifics when I get time to find my 2005 code book. Not to worry, that part is relatively obsolescence -proof.
 
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There was a rerun of Mike Rowe's "Dirty Jobs" on TV a bit ago. It was on installing lightning rods. There is a section showing how to install and bond a grounding rod. Season 7 episode 5.
 
You want all grounds at the same potential. That requires a low impedance path to ground including the bonding of ground rods. Linking the rods through the ground lug on an outlet is not a good idea. Those two rods will not be at the same potential. A surge will take every path to ground. The goal is to provide a direct, low impedance path that is basically at the same potential at your main service entrance as it is at your antenna mast.
 
The main service box & ground rod is on the pole then everything is ran under ground, no overhead wires. This is on one side of the house. I put the new grounding stake on the opposite side of the house, it about 90 ft or more away from the main service & ground rod. I want to use this grounding stake for the antenna only. I could also run the antenna ground to an electrical outlet in the attic & use that as a ground then I wouldn’t use the stake I hammered into the ground. I’ve always thought a ground is just that, a ground.
 
a ground is just that, a ground.
Somewhat true for small currents, but not for the hundreds or thousands of amps that a lightning strike can produce. Sounds like your service entrance ground is a rather long distance from your antenna. I would suggest you talk to a local electrician that is familiar with these types of installations, or ask your local building inspector as to what the codes require in this case.
 
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