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Rattling PSW150

belgianbrain

belgianbrain

AK Subscriber
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Rattling PSW150 / Rebuild project

Someone gave me a Polk Audio PSW150 sub.

Even at moderate volume, it rattles. When you touch the dust cover on the woofer, it subsides, but then returns as soon as you remove your finger.

Two questions:

1. Is this a good sub worth fixing?
2. What's wrong with it? A quick internet search seems to suggest this is a well known problem. Do I need a new woofer, and if so, recommendations?
 
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Yes. Worth fixing.

First thing I would do is pull the driver out. Ckeck if the dustcap is comming off. It could also be that the cone is seperating from the voice coil. From the bottom, see if the spider is lifting off the frame or voice coil.

It sounds like something is starting to detach and a little pressure puts it back together. Give the driver a good inspection. If you don't find anything, then start looking for a replacement.
 
never used this sub or any dayton products, but it sure looks very well built.

you can re-glue the coil cover/spider suspension material back to the frame, but i cant remember what glue it is that is used.
 
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belgianbrain said:
Took out the woofer and the voice coil cover is completely disconnected (glue broke).

Also seems to be rubbing.

Seems like polk made a shite driver.

Ordered this as a replacement - made in the good ole USA.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-414

Comments?
Click to expand...

Was the surround comming off the basket? That could be the reason you're getting a VC rub. That should be repairable, if it's lifting.

The dustcap can be glued back on. Aleen's craft glue is what you would use.

Replacing the driver without knowing the specs of the original driver is a crap-shoot. It might or might not work in the size of the box. I would check with the polk site and see if anyone there has the specs of the original driver. You might get lucky and someone will know.

Good Luck
 
Really? I thought that part would be subject to a lot of stress at high power levels and trying to re-glue it would be futile.

Is it just a matter of squirting the glue in and holding in it position or is there more to it than that?

What kind of glue?

It is the weekend. I could probably cancel the order for the Dayton driver before it ships. But tell me, is the Dayton replacement likely a better driver?

I don't mind spending the $150 on this sub.

The voice coil on the driver seems to rub too. When you move the cone in and out slowly, you hear a scratching sound. Is this not an issue? The rubber surround is just fine, though.
 
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cablephil says the glue is called Aleen's craft glue, but i personally cant remember what i used in car audio, its been a long time.
gluing the cover back is that simple. simply put the glue on the frame and push the cover back into place, just be sure you keep from twisting the cover while doing it.
let it set for at least 24 hours, i dont care if the glue say's it sets in 12 or less.
I have re-glued that cover many of times in car audio on subs taking 4x's the amount of continuous power than your sub will ever get.
I glued this cover on one of my 750w competition alphasonik sub taking a 1250w continuous daily beating, it lasted in my car for a year before i sold the system.
as for the scratching voice coil. its probably because the cover is not stationary, so when youre pushing on the cone its not moving straight. Or it has been used with the cover un-glued long enough to have actually damaged the coil. you wont know this until you re-glue the cover.
I have no idea if the dayton is a better product, i have never used one.
If i reed the spec's on the dayton correctly, you'll need at least 400w's continuously pushing it for it to sound proper. i could be wrong though.
The good thing on the dayton though, you will have a warranty. Hey, it could be a better driver, but again, you'll never know until you try it.
The reviews sound promising, so if i was to make a call on the reviews alone? i would have to say it's a sound driver.
 
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That's Repairable

belgianbrain said:
Picture of problem with original driver:
Click to expand...

Cut the dust cap off. To glue the spider back in place, get a slow set epoxy. Coat the under part of the spider and then shim the VC. I can't tell you how much of a gap you'll have, but paper shims or an old business card usually works. Slip the shims in between the VC and magnet pole in 4 equal spots. This will center the coil. If you make them tight, you can push down on the cone, and this will keep the spider in place while the epoxy sets.

There's no guarantee that the driver is good or bad, but for a couple of dollars you might save some money in the long run. If the driver works after this with no VC rub, replace the dustcover later. Even a circle of cardboard coated with epoxy will do as a dustcover.

Good Luck.
 
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Got the Dayton Audio replacement driver today in the mail.

It clearly smokes the original driver for quality and weighs twice as much.

It's also a bit bigger with a larger frame, so it looks like I'm going to be enlarging the opening a few mm to get it in.

Here goes my next project. :)
 
belgianbrain said:
Got the Dayton Audio replacement driver today in the mail.

It clearly smokes the original driver for quality and weighs twice as much.

It's also a bit bigger with a larger frame, so it looks like I'm going to be enlarging the opening a few mm to get it in.

Here goes my next project. :)
Click to expand...

If you've never done this sort of thing before, make sure that driver is going to work for the job intended. Make sure it's designed for that type of enclosure/design and matches up in terms of specs. A well-built driver will not get you very-far if it's put in the wrong type of enclosure/design. It may well work fine, but you want to be sure before you start cutting into anything. Just sayin'.
 
Thanks for the advice.

The PSW150 appears to be a smallish enclosure (maybe 2-2.5 cubic feet).

The TIT280C-4 that I bought is designed for small enclosures.

The specs match - it can handle the 200W (actually 400W) and it's a 4Ohm driver like the original.

Anything else I should consider?
 
Did you check the Q&A on the driver page?

PE Tech suggests a box of 2.25cu' (you're good there), but with a vent of 4"x44" long. Do you have that kind of room in your box?

Before you go chopping the box up, I'd do a little more research. As I stated in my second post here, check on the Polk site. They would know.
 
Personally I'd throw the sub in to see if it sounds good.. might as well, you have it now. Any way you can test it in the box without mangling anything?
 
What is PE Tech?

44" long vent? That's almost four feet. How would a 2.25 cubic foot box that is large enough to house the 280C-4 even have a four foot long vent?
 
belgianbrain said:
What is PE Tech?

44" long vent? That's almost four feet. How would a 2.25 cubic foot box that is large enough to house the 280C-4 even have a four foot long vent?
Click to expand...

PE = PartsExpress

Tech = technical support

Q&A = Questions and answers

My only concern is once you open up the driver area so it fits, there is the chance that other drivers might not fit (if it doesn't work).

Just trying to help and give you other options.

Good Luck
 
if the port does turn out indeed a 4''x4', can that be cut in half?
take two 2''x2' ports to equal one 4''x4' port?
 
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