Rattling PSW150
- Thread starter belgianbrain
- Start date
Thanks for the suggestions.
The port on this unit is about 3-4" in diameter and maybe 6-8" long.
How will that affect performance compared to the massive chimney that's being suggested for the TIT280C-4....and what property of the TIT280C-4 would necessitate such a massive chimney? I'm kind of perplexed how they can design a driver for small enclosures, and then recommend attaching 4 feet of pipe to it.
The port on this unit is about 3-4" in diameter and maybe 6-8" long.
How will that affect performance compared to the massive chimney that's being suggested for the TIT280C-4....and what property of the TIT280C-4 would necessitate such a massive chimney? I'm kind of perplexed how they can design a driver for small enclosures, and then recommend attaching 4 feet of pipe to it.
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cablephil212
Super Member
1 note BOOM. That is a HUGE hump.
A 2 1/2 > 3 cu' box is not small. 1 cu' is small. The port could be split into 2 or 3 sections to equal the length needed. Also, elbows can be used if a straight port length won't fit.
Yes, post the others.
bad400
Super Member
thats what i was thinking when i typed my first post.
after which i thought about cutting the port in half, but wasn't sure so i deleted that part.
So are you guys suggesting I actually try to get 44" of port in that box?
You know, with the massive TIT280C-4 driver I'm putting in there and the amp at the back, probably 1/3 of the volume of that box is gone.
You asked for it - here's all the info. Again, these results model the new driver in the existing box, unmodified.
You know, with the massive TIT280C-4 driver I'm putting in there and the amp at the back, probably 1/3 of the volume of that box is gone.
You asked for it - here's all the info. Again, these results model the new driver in the existing box, unmodified.
Attachments
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cablephil212
Super Member
NO. I'm not saying to stuff all that tubing into your box.
The whole point of you asking for help here is to get members who have experience to give you their point of view on what should be done. It seems that you thought by buying the best driver, it would work. There are alot of other things that needed to be considered then just the price.
The hardest part of replace a driver is finding another driver that matches the (or very close) T/S specs of the original driver being replaced. The numbers matter more than how much the driver can take in watts, the build quality, or the cost.
Since you have the driver, might as well try it out. You will be the only one who can tell if it sounds good to you.
Good Luck
The whole point of you asking for help here is to get members who have experience to give you their point of view on what should be done. It seems that you thought by buying the best driver, it would work. There are alot of other things that needed to be considered then just the price.
The hardest part of replace a driver is finding another driver that matches the (or very close) T/S specs of the original driver being replaced. The numbers matter more than how much the driver can take in watts, the build quality, or the cost.
Since you have the driver, might as well try it out. You will be the only one who can tell if it sounds good to you.
Good Luck
bad400
Super Member
I think if that driver requires a 44'' port, you might try to figure out how to do it.
if the port can be cut in half, then cut another hole for the other section of pipe.
there are many home subs with multiple ports, sometimes it has to be done to reach the specs the driver calls for.
Under powering, and porting a box wrong can cause damage to a sub.
you may be better off sealing the port off completely, thats if there is enough cft of air for the driver.
cablephil,
i have looked at some converter charts, but cant seem to understand them.
can you tell me what the cubic foot is on a 14x14x15 3/4 inch box? im not sure the port size, i'll check in the morning. its a down firing port, i'd rather not have to move it.
I may replace the drivers in my subs after the new year, but im not sure the cubic feet of my box's.
if the port can be cut in half, then cut another hole for the other section of pipe.
there are many home subs with multiple ports, sometimes it has to be done to reach the specs the driver calls for.
Under powering, and porting a box wrong can cause damage to a sub.
you may be better off sealing the port off completely, thats if there is enough cft of air for the driver.
cablephil,
i have looked at some converter charts, but cant seem to understand them.
can you tell me what the cubic foot is on a 14x14x15 3/4 inch box? im not sure the port size, i'll check in the morning. its a down firing port, i'd rather not have to move it.
I may replace the drivers in my subs after the new year, but im not sure the cubic feet of my box's.
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cablephil212
Super Member
Hey bad.
With the box size listed, the cu' would be 1.3 empty. That is the internal size.
This is based in 3/4" construction, and is empty inside. Anything inside the box that takes up space (driver, port, bracing, ect) reduces the total cu'. As a "rule of thumb", you add about 10% over-volume to make up for the loss.
With the box size listed, the cu' would be 1.3 empty. That is the internal size.
This is based in 3/4" construction, and is empty inside. Anything inside the box that takes up space (driver, port, bracing, ect) reduces the total cu'. As a "rule of thumb", you add about 10% over-volume to make up for the loss.
cablephil212
Super Member
Nah. Closer to 1.2 with some damping.
bad400
Super Member
Ok, thanks.
I'll look for a driver that can fit those specs. i'll still need to know the port size though right?
oop's, thats another question. Sorry OP. im done.
these seem to fit the cabinets i have,
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.co.../peerless-835016-xxls-10-aluminum-cone-4-ohm/
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=290-322
I'll look for a driver that can fit those specs. i'll still need to know the port size though right?
oop's, thats another question. Sorry OP. im done.
these seem to fit the cabinets i have,
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.co.../peerless-835016-xxls-10-aluminum-cone-4-ohm/
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=290-322
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So, based on the graphs, can anyone comment on whether this theoretical sub would be good, mediocre, or crappy?
How would you use two ports to equal one longer port?
How would you use two ports to equal one longer port?
bad400
Super Member
if im right,
you would cut the 44'' length tube in half, then cut another hole in the cabinet and install the remaining 22''.
I dont think anyone is saying the driver you purchased wont work. i believe they are saying, for it to work to properly or to its best performance, you may need to modify the cabinet.
you would cut the 44'' length tube in half, then cut another hole in the cabinet and install the remaining 22''.
I dont think anyone is saying the driver you purchased wont work. i believe they are saying, for it to work to properly or to its best performance, you may need to modify the cabinet.
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Thanks.
When I ordered the driver, I didn't realize subwoofer physics was so complicated.
Now that people are suggesting the replacement woofer might sound worse than the original it is giving me pause.
I'm a bit of a perfectionist...
When I ordered the driver, I didn't realize subwoofer physics was so complicated.
Now that people are suggesting the replacement woofer might sound worse than the original it is giving me pause.
I'm a bit of a perfectionist...
2ndtimelucky
Well-Known Member
Dont take it too much to heart, in the same way people are saying it might sound worse, there is also a good chance that it may be equal to, or pehaps better than original 
if you already ordered it then I'd say go for it. Just because it may sound different to the original doesn't neccesarily mean worse. You may prefer the new sound
if you already ordered it then I'd say go for it. Just because it may sound different to the original doesn't neccesarily mean worse. You may prefer the new sound
bad400
Super Member
Most of the time, when a company finds a sub they want to use, they design a cabinet around the subs specs that will utilize the drivers abilities.
the frequency, power rating, db levels and spl abilities are huge factors when making a box that sounds good.
Thanks, guys. It's mounted and ready to go!!
Stay tuned for my impressions.
One thing I can say is that the stock driver is crap compared to the quality of this replacement!
I mean real crap. Kind of surprising for a $650 (1997) sub that has a decent reputation.
Stay tuned for my impressions.
One thing I can say is that the stock driver is crap compared to the quality of this replacement!
I mean real crap. Kind of surprising for a $650 (1997) sub that has a decent reputation.
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bad400
Super Member
not sure if you have ever broken in a sub before, but take it easy for a day or two.
listen to a couple songs at low levels, than maybe turn it up about 1/2 for one song, then turn it back down for a few songs.
you need to let the voice coil cool between mid volume listening, they like to seize up or weaken if not broken properly.
it will probably take a weeks worth of breakin for a new good made sub to sound right.
listen to a couple songs at low levels, than maybe turn it up about 1/2 for one song, then turn it back down for a few songs.
you need to let the voice coil cool between mid volume listening, they like to seize up or weaken if not broken properly.
it will probably take a weeks worth of breakin for a new good made sub to sound right.
Thanks.
I'm new to subs. I've always been satisfied with the low end performance of my NS-690s. But, since this sub was given to me, I figured what the hell...
I'll soon start another thread discussing the challenges of adding a sub to a two channel full range speaker system.
But first things first. Tomorrow I'll see how this bad boy sounds.
I'm new to subs. I've always been satisfied with the low end performance of my NS-690s. But, since this sub was given to me, I figured what the hell...
I'll soon start another thread discussing the challenges of adding a sub to a two channel full range speaker system.
But first things first. Tomorrow I'll see how this bad boy sounds.
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