Realistic LAB 400 With a Shure Stylus RS 8T

[Metalownz]

I didn't need to touch the adjustment screw. Once I balanced the arm and weight to Zero, and set proper force for cartridge- it worked perfectly on its own.

How did you do this? I got my turntable from FED-EX yesterday, and i set it up, and it works perfectly. But i want to make sure im as close to 1 gram as possible, so im not wearing my stylus and records out.

I do have the manual, but im having a hard time figuring out how to do this part.

By the way, the turntable sounds fabulous! This one actually has the original stylus on it! And its in nice shape also. Which means this table wasnt used all that much. Im now the proud owner of a Realistic LAB-400!

 

[reidcc]

How did you do this? I got my turntable from FED-EX yesterday, and i set it up, and it works perfectly. But i want to make sure im as close to 1 gram as possible, so im not wearing my stylus and records out.

I do have the manual, but im having a hard time figuring out how to do this part.

By the way, the turntable sounds fabulous! This one actually has the original stylus on it! And its in nice shape also. Which means this table wasnt used all that much. Im now the proud owner of a Realistic LAB-400!

To allow the arm to somewhat balance- I had to have the cueing "catch" all the way down(it goes down to allow lp play when unit is running). I turned unit on with platter spinning- to allow tonearm to drop down. Move the arm off the rest and between rest and moving platter- there is a small area to do this. I then turned the Counterweight in rear to allow arm to "float" and become somewhat balanced. Then turn the small round dial in front of Counterweight to read Zero.

Just a followup to this- I am no expert with any of this- in fact it is my first try. Now I could use some help in making sure my Cartridge is mounted properly(straight) and with proper overhang. I d/l'ed a protractor to try the overhang, but now I gotta make sure my cartridge is mounted straight. I am getting some sibilance.

If an AK'ers out there local to Massachusetts wanna halp out a new brother AK'er- I could use some help or at least re-assurance!!!

Thanks
Chris

I think I am missing a step here- but at the end of the day- you end up turning that same dial to 1- which is halfway between the tracking range of the RS1000E cartridge. I then turned my anti-skate to 1.

I did not have instructions with mine, and downloaded both the instructions and the Service Manual from VinylEngine. I do remember these being in the Service Manual.

Chris

 

[reidcc]

OK- a quick followup to balancing the arm. I just looked at the manual again online.

Acording to manual- the cueing lever will drop the arm with power off. Rotate the counter weight only to get arm to float or balance, and then turn the dial in front of it to Zero. Return arm to rest, and then turn the Counterweight AND the dial in front of it together until the dial reads One(1). Then set your Anti-Skate to match

Chris

 

[Hifirob2]

Hi Chris

I don't know if I can help. As for stylus overhang, there should be a chart/pic in the owner's manual to give you the recommended distance in mm. Since mine didn't come with a manual, and the tonearm looks the same as my Technics S-shaped ones, I used the distance for my SL-1950 (52 mm - the distance from stylus tip back to where the headshell meets the overhang gauge - when headshell is inserted).

As for alignment of the cartridge, I downloaded a chart from EnjoyTheMusic.com, printed it out, cut it out, and followed the instructions. Once properly aligned, mine sounded MUCH better.

Rob

 

[reidcc]

Thanks Rob!

I actually d/l'd that one last night. I was going to attempt this- however, I was now worried about how straight in the headshell the cartridge was(meaning was it cocked or crooked slightly). I wasn't sure if there was a way to make sure of that.

Chris

 

[Hifirob2]

Hi Chris

This was my first attempt at cartridge alignment. Up until a few months ago, all of my turntables had P-mount cartridges, so none of this was necessary. Now I have 5 TT's that have the S shaped tonearm with standard mount carts.

I 'eyeballed' my first one. I thought it looked perfectly lined up, until I checked it with the chart lines. Now, it looks a little crooked in the headshell, but it sounds better - the improvement is incredible.

And after reading a post with close up pics of dirty stylii, I clean my stylus after each record. I also "deep" clean my thrift store records - and many of them sound like new.

Funny how the little things turn out to be big things as far as records are concerned.

Rob

 

[hakaplan]

Hi Chris

This was my first attempt at cartridge alignment. Up until a few months ago, all of my turntables had P-mount cartridges, so none of this was necessary. Now I have 5 TT's that have the S shaped tonearm with standard mount carts.

I 'eyeballed' my first one. I thought it looked perfectly lined up, until I checked it with the chart lines. Now, it looks a little crooked in the headshell, but it sounds better - the improvement is incredible.

And after reading a post with close up pics of dirty stylii, I clean my stylus after each record. I also "deep" clean my thrift store records - and many of them sound like new.

Funny how the little things turn out to be big things as far as records are concerned.

Rob

Rob, if it sounds fine to you, that's great. Just FYI the reason it might look crooked is that Japanese turntables were designed with Stevenson alignment while the enjoythemusic protractor (and almost all others you'll find) use Baerwald alignment. Generally the Baerwald will push the cartridge forward and tilted, but if you're using Technics headshells or clones (generic DJ, Stanton, etc) then you'll have enough room in the slots. The vintage headshells that originally came with the tables (except for Technics) were usually too short for Baerwald. If you're ever curious, vinylengine has the Stevenson free for printout.

 

[Hifirob2]

Thanks Howard - I did print out the Stevenson guide just now and used it.

My ears thank you....again!

Rob

 

[Metalownz]

I have no hum issues with mine. I also read somewhere today that the Hitachi's had a signal cutoff as the stylus lowers onto the record, and cuts out right before the stylus picks up at the end of play. I always wanted a turntable with this feature. No sudden noises at start/end. I wonder if that feature carried over to your's?

I have no pictures of mine yet, but judging by your pics, the resemblance is remarkable. It's gotta be a Hitachi......very nice!

Rob

Mine has that feature as well. Ive been listening to it all weekend, and that feature really stood out at me. There is so much to say regarding this turntable. First, the sound quality is incredible. And having it hooked up to a Realistic STA-90 receiver which are only 2 years apart really makes my stereo sing. My friend was over listening to it, and this guy grew up in the 70's. He says his records never sounded better, which made me smile. Now i know theres better and all, but iam happy with what ive got. And i think Realistic made some amazing gear back in the late 60's to the early 80's. Well. Or, the people who did make Realistic equipment had quality in mind. But, yeah, your turntable looks ALOT like mine Rob.

 

[Hifirob2]

Mine has that feature as well. Ive been listening to it all weekend, and that feature really stood out at me. There is so much to say regarding this turntable. First, the sound quality is incredible. And having it hooked up to a Realistic STA-90 receiver which are only 2 years apart really makes my stereo sing. My friend was over listening to it, and this guy grew up in the 70's. He says his records never sounded better, which made me smile. Now i know theres better and all, but iam happy with what ive got. And i think Realistic made some amazing gear back in the late 60's to the early 80's. Well. Or, the people who did make Realistic equipment had quality in mind. But, yeah, your turntable looks ALOT like mine Rob.

I'm glad your's has that cut off feature, also - I like it. As for other 'high-end' Radio Shack gear, I bought a TOTL cassette deck in the early 80's from them - as Realistic SCT-42. It was a single well only, BUT this thing had every imaginable feature on it - quick reverse, fully programmable, you name it - and I found out it was made by Hitachi also - it was a twin to one of theirs. I still have that deck - it needs a re-belt (wish I knew how to do that), but it was my daily runner for many years. When I ever get it fixed, maybe I'll build a complete RS system - good stuff. And not too many out there...

This turntable is really challenging my opinions of an 'ideal' TT. I'm a huge Technics guy - going back to my first one in 1983, so I'm biased, but this may convert me. Technics did build a very beautiful wood base belt drive TT for JCPenney's MCS line in the late 70's - the 6502. The 6700 was direct drive - even more beautiful, but no wood base - it was black. My rosewood base really stands out and compliments the aluminum/chrome controls nicely. All my friends agree that it is beautiful and sounds great, but most are more entertained by my Technics changers when I use the stacking spindles - especially for 45's. Takes them back to their childhood....

Play on,
Rob

 

[Metalownz]

I'm glad your's has that cut off feature, also - I like it. As for other 'high-end' Radio Shack gear, I bought a TOTL cassette deck in the early 80's from them - as Realistic SCT-42. It was a single well only, BUT this thing had every imaginable feature on it - quick reverse, fully programmable, you name it - and I found out it was made by Hitachi also - it was a twin to one of theirs. I still have that deck - it needs a re-belt (wish I knew how to do that), but it was my daily runner for many years. When I ever get it fixed, maybe I'll build a complete RS system - good stuff. And not too many out there...

This turntable is really challenging my opinions of an 'ideal' TT. I'm a huge Technics guy - going back to my first one in 1983, so I'm biased, but this may convert me. Technics did build a very beautiful wood base belt drive TT for JCPenney's MCS line in the late 70's - the 6502. The 6700 was direct drive - even more beautiful, but no wood base - it was black. My rosewood base really stands out and compliments the aluminum/chrome controls nicely. All my friends agree that it is beautiful and sounds great, but most are more entertained by my Technics changers when I use the stacking spindles - especially for 45's. Takes them back to their childhood....

Play on,
Rob

Hey, if your converting to be a Hitachi fan, its all fine and good. It shows you have an open mind when it comes to equipment. The really cool thing about my turntable, is not only is it fully automatic, but it also has the repeat feature where i can keep listening to the same side over and over without getting up. Thats pretty rare on a turntable built in the 70's from what i can gather. Im still struggling with the counter weight thing. I can't figure out why i cant get it right. What i can't figure out is, how far up the counter weight toggle has to be? I mean, it sounds good, and its not skating. I have to mess with it some more, or have someone show me in person how its done, because it plays on my mind every time i listen to it.

 

[Hifirob2]

Oh, I hope Howard jumps in here to help......

What do you mean by "how far up the counter weight toggle has to be?" Do you mean the shaft behind the tonearm pivot that the weight screws onto?

Oh - my Hitachi is merely semi-automatic, so no repeat switch on mine.........but if you like the repeat switch, play with a changer like mine some time. It has a knob you can set to play a record 1-6 times (then shut off), or continuously repeat. Kinda fun.

Rob

 

[hakaplan]

Hey, if your converting to be a Hitachi fan, its all fine and good. It shows you have an open mind when it comes to equipment. The really cool thing about my turntable, is not only is it fully automatic, but it also has the repeat feature where i can keep listening to the same side over and over without getting up. Thats pretty rare on a turntable built in the 70's from what i can gather. Im still struggling with the counter weight thing. I can't figure out why i cant get it right. What i can't figure out is, how far up the counter weight toggle has to be? I mean, it sounds good, and its not skating. I have to mess with it some more, or have someone show me in person how its done, because it plays on my mind every time i listen to it.

Okay, here is how to set the tracking force. You set anti-skate to zero. Move the arm to the space between the rest and the platter. Rotate the counterweight until the tonearm floats horizontally. Then turn ONLY the dial at the front of the counterweight (it moves independently) so that zero is at the top. Now turn the counterweight (the dial moves along with it) so that the desired tracking force is at the top. For the M75ED or clone it should be 1.25g. (1g is too light and will actually do damage from bouncing around in the groove.) Now set anti-skate to 1.25. That's it.

Also, REPEAT function was actually very common on turntables back then, but only on full automatics.

 

[Metalownz]

Okay, here is how to set the tracking force. You set anti-skate to zero. Move the arm to the space between the rest and the platter. Rotate the counterweight until the tonearm floats horizontally. Then turn ONLY the dial at the front of the counterweight (it moves independently) so that zero is at the top. Now turn the counterweight (the dial moves along with it) so that the desired tracking force is at the top. For the M75ED or clone it should be 1.25g. (1g is too light and will actually do damage from bouncing around in the groove.) Now set anti-skate to 1.25. That's it.

Also, REPEAT function was actually very common on turntables back then, but only on full automatics.

Hey, i did it! I set it at 1.5 though because i like a little more bass in my music. And i also set the tracking force at 1.5. My question is, if i change the Stylus, am i going to have to do it all over again? Now that i know how to do it, its not all that complicated. Just curious.

 

[Metalownz]

Oh, I hope Howard jumps in here to help......

What do you mean by "how far up the counter weight toggle has to be?" Do you mean the shaft behind the tonearm pivot that the weight screws onto?

Oh - my Hitachi is merely semi-automatic, so no repeat switch on mine.........but if you like the repeat switch, play with a changer like mine some time. It has a knob you can set to play a record 1-6 times (then shut off), or continuously repeat. Kinda fun.

Rob

Yeah, I think mine can also do that, but im not sure. What weight are you using for your tone arm, just out of curiosity?

 

[Hifirob2]

Yeah, I think mine can also do that, but im not sure. What weight are you using for your tone arm, just out of curiosity?

I'm using 1.5 grams. I've stuck with that setting on all my turntables for years (if they were adjustable), and it's worked well for me. I've also never bought carts/styli that suggested tracking at 1.0 or less, or higher than 2.0

Rob

 

[Hifirob2]

Hey, i did it! I set it at 1.5 though because i like a little more bass in my music. And i also set the tracking force at 1.5. My question is, if i change the Stylus, am i going to have to do it all over again? Now that i know how to do it, its not all that complicated. Just curious.

Well, now I have a handful of mismatched headshells loaded with differing carts, so I reset/check my tracking force each time a swap out a headshell. If you are only changing the stylus, I wouldn't think you'd need to re-check anything - unless the new stylus calls for a differing tracking weight.

Rob

 

[Metalownz]

I'm using 1.5 grams. I've stuck with that setting on all my turntables for years (if they were adjustable), and it's worked well for me. I've also never bought carts/styli that suggested tracking at 1.0 or less, or higher than 2.0

Rob

I figured 1.5 would be a good tracking weight. On my manual, it says 1.0, but the manual also tells you how to set the counter balance wrong too. Thats why i was so confused. Either that, or it gets overly technical about it.

 

[Metalownz]

Well, now I have a handful of mismatched headshells loaded with differing carts, so I reset/check my tracking force each time a swap out a headshell. If you are only changing the stylus, I wouldn't think you'd need to re-check anything - unless the new stylus calls for a differing tracking weight.

Rob

The stylus would be alot newer thats for sure. This is the original that came with the cart. Thats why i was curious.