Realistic Lab 420, Tonearm Drops Too Fast

[bad_boo]

A few months ago I restored a realistic Lab 420 that was in a very bad shape. I was happy to see it coming to back to life.
However there was one little detail I could not fix and is the cue lever that drops like a rock.
There is a thread here in AK (https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/realistic-lab-400-cue-lever-problem.729306/) talking about it, but there was no clear explanation on how he got it fixed.

I am using a 500k wt silicone (which I used to fix a kenwood kd-3100) and I am trying to get it though the cue lever screw, but it's not doing anything.

Can anyone give me a hint on how to fix this on this TT please?

 

[Montycat]

It's nearly always necessary to do this from inside. You have to remove the turntable bottom, find the cue mechanism and remove whatever clip or nut that holds that together. The shaft or piston will pull out the top and you then add the silicone to the outside of it. It might even have a divot to act as a reservoir for the lube.

 

[Montycat]

Here it is. It has an E clip holding it and the spring in place.

 

[bad_boo]

Here it is. It has an E clip holding it and the spring in place.

View attachment 2542117

Thanks so much for looking into that. Now I remember that part, I noticed it when I opened it last I serviced it. (Which I was learning at the same time).
So i just apply the 500k silicone directly into the spring?

 

[Montycat]

Thanks so much for looking into that.

No problem.

So i just apply the 500k silicone directly into the spring?

Sort of. It actually coats the upper part of the metal shaft inside the spring. It's the contact surfaces between that shaft and the round hole in the tonearm base that need that extra friction or stickiness to slow down the drop.

 

[likebike23]

Pull the shaft (#322) out of the hole after removing the clip and spring. Clean the shaft, clean the hole it goes in. Smear some 500 cst silicone on the shaft and reassemble.

 

[bad_boo]

Sort of. It actually coats the upper part of the metal shaft inside the spring. It's the contact surfaces between that shaft and the round hole in the tonearm base that need that extra friction or stickiness to slow down the drop.

I think that spring is the one as on the picture? I was trying to apply directly, but I think I am not applying properly. Just improved a little tiny bit imo, but not desirable. Still drops too fast. I think I'd have to disassemble the whole section.

Pull the shaft (#322) out of the hole after removing the clip and spring. Clean the shaft, clean the hole it goes in. Smear some 500 cst silicone on the shaft and reassemble.

Thanks for your reply. I see what you mean. I was trying to apply the silicone directly from below the TT (like the picture above), but I guess it's better to apply as suggested.
Ok I will get some time tomorrow to work on it.
Thanks again for your advice.

 

[Montycat]

Yes, as I said in my first reply, you have to remove it. The silicone is so thick it will not flow into the gap. It especially won't if old lube has congealed.

 

[bad_boo]

Yes, as I said in my first reply, you have to remove it. The silicone is so thick it will not flow into the gap. It especially won't if old lube has congealed.

Makes sense. Ok I will remove that the shaft, clean and reapply the silicone.
I will post an update when I'm done.
thank you

 

[Montycat]

Be careful as you pry off the clip holding the spring. It can easily go flying.

 

[bad_boo]

Be careful as you pry off the clip holding the spring. It can easily go flying.

It's working properly now. The tonearm is dropping smoothly. Let's see how it looks on these coming days when the silicone settles down.
I post a picture of where exactly put the silicone.

Thanks for the help.

 

[bad_boo]

Pull the shaft (#322) out of the hole after removing the clip and spring. Clean the shaft, clean the hole it goes in. Smear some 500 cst silicone on the shaft and reassemble.

Thanks for your advice. I think I cut some corners and tried to apply to the shaft as per the post above, but hopefully there is no more issues, and if so, then I will go to fully service here.
Thank you

 

[Scott Roark]

Thanks for your advice. I think I cut some corners and tried to apply to the shaft as per the post above, but hopefully there is no more issues, and if so, then I will go to fully service here.
Thank you

So, based on this last picture, did you ultimately apply the silicone from the top of the turn table?

Thanks!

 

[bad_boo]

So, based on this last picture, did you ultimately apply the silicone from the top of the turn table?

Thanks!

Yes I did.... please note that besides removing the 3 screws on top, I had to unscrew the tonearm from below (the two small screws holding it), so I could lift it as per on the picture.

 

[Scott Roark]

Yes I did.... please note that besides removing the 3 screws on top, I had to unscrew the tonearm from below (the two small screws holding it), so I could lift it as per on the picture.

Any chance you took pics of the two small screws holding the tone arm from below???

 

[Scott Roark]

Are these the 2 screws that need removed underneath? Thanks in advance!

 

[likebike23]

I wouldn't he messing with tonearm screws if I were you. I would be looking to remove the "e clip" on the assembly I point to. Then the assembly can be moved out of the way..


I would then be looking to remove the "e clip" pointed to in the second pic. I would then pull the shaft out from the top, clean it, apply 500 cst silicone, and reassemble everything.

 

[Scott Roark]

I wouldn't he messing with tonearm screws if I were you. I would be looking to remove the "e clip" on the assembly I point to. Then the assembly can be moved out of the way..
View attachment 2556956

I would then be looking to remove the "e clip" pointed to in the second pic. I would then pull the shaft out from the top, clean it, apply 500 cst silicone, and reassemble everything.
View attachment 2556957

OK, I'll give that a try. Thanks for the pictures and description.

 

[bad_boo]

Are these the 2 screws that need removed underneath? Thanks in advance!

Yes, that's correct. These two screws will free the tonearm.
But you would have to realign when you screw it back.
Likebike gives a good advice on this, that I didn't know.

 

[Scott Roark]

Well, I hosed it up. Unfortunately, in my attempt to loosen the top, I ended up messing with a hidden screw....and this was a TERRIBLE idea. It affects where the tone arm will drop on the record and another screw controls where it will pick up.
I'm BEYOND frustrated with my mistake, but cannot figure away to resolve it. I hate to say 'Live and Learn', but I guess I'm going to have to.