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Realistic Mach 1 (4029) upgrade x-over vs stock

Received a pair of Mach One (4024a) a few weeks ago. Other than typical stains, these are the best I've had in my possession. Even the grills are very nice. Hope to work on them soon, now that we're getting above 40 degrees. Hate working in the garage when it's below 50. Intolerable.
 
I'm not aware of any. Factory networks show up a lot on fleabay.
What I meant are cross covers that would provide an "upgrade" over stock? Mine play fine but like in mobile audio there are different crossovers that will provide a better sound.
 
I read about winding something 52 times to get a certain measurement and to replace certain various caps. Unfortunately unless there is a picture diagram of the actual crossover with arrows pointing out the correct values to change a before & after that will be tough.
I see replace
33uf with 14 uf
10uf with 8.2 uf
2.75 if with(bright yellow) 4uf
.3mh with ..15 mh

I don't mind giving a go but the above is all Greek to me. Sorry
 
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I read about winding something 52 times to get a certain measurement and.to.replace certain various caps. Unfortunately unless there is a picture diagram of the actual crossover with arrows pointing out the correct values to change a before & after that will be tough.

Maybe you could ship your crossovers to one of us members to do the mods, I have done about three pair, and also built two pair of the Mach 4 Rhino's. You can click on the link below.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=500409
 
Maybe you could ship your crossovers to one of us members to do the mods, I have done about three pair, and also built two pair of the Mach 4 Rhino's. You can click on the link below.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=500409
I'd love to. The mechanical stuff I can do but like I said unless there is a picture tutorial with arrows pointing to the corresponding parts to replace it's hard to go on imagination. It would end up looking like some kids Lego project :D
 
Received a pair of Mach One (4024a) a few weeks ago. Other than typical stains, these are the best I've had in my possession. Even the grills are very nice. Hope to work on them soon, now that we're getting above 40 degrees. Hate working in the garage when it's below 50. Intolerable.
Congrats! Hope to see your progress.
 
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I did the mods to the crossovers, midrange felt gasket, cabinet work (holes in mid compartment), superglue the cones, sprayed the backside of the mid horn with sound deadner, and replace foam surrounds.

I can say without a doubt it makes the speaker sound expensive, you have to hear for yourself because everyone has different likes. It does take more of a twist of the volume knob but the sound that comes out is remarkable.

I have compared them to stock 4024As, Klipsch KLF-10s, Klipsch Hereseys, The horns are much less in your face and very clear compared to stock.
I have always liked the Mach 1s for looks and for pounding out loud classic rock, so making them more refined and classy sounding has put a smile on my face.

As far as a kit to upgrade the crossovers, there isn't one but we have all the parts needed listed in the thread. I downloaded the info and have it in my computor.

I would put at least a 75 watt receiver or amp behind them, they like power and it makes them come alive. I have used my SX-950, and SX-1080 to test out mine.

I am also in the process of making aluminum plates for the plastic L-pads that crack and break along the screw holes.
Can I get some info on those metal Lpad plates? I need some! My plastic ones are shot. Any info would be amazing please!
 
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Can I get some info on those metal Lpad plates? I need some! My plastic ones are shot. Any info would be amazing please!
I made a run of around 76 of those aluminum plates for the Mach 1 years ago and they are all gone now. I'm not aware of anyone else having made more of them.
 
I made a run of around 76 of those aluminum plates for the Mach 1 years ago and they are all gone now. I'm not aware of anyone else having made more of them.
Do you have the ability to make 2 more? Haha I've reached out the a few local machine shops in my area. Hopefully I get lucky in getting some to make a exact replacement or close to.
 
Do you have the ability to make 2 more? Haha I've reached out the a few local machine shops in my area. Hopefully I get lucky in getting some to make a exact replacement or close to.
No, the machinist I used is no longer there, and he had a minimum quantity of plates required. When I did it, the cost ended up around 60.00 a pair including decal and shipping for me to break even, certainly costly for me, but I was glad to help many others out by doing it. It really would be fairly easy to get a couple plates cut to size and then drill and cut the holes using a Dremel tool. I had decals made at Office Depot by having them scan an original plate and print decals from it.
 
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No, the machinist I used is no longer there, and he had a minimum quantity of plates required. When I did it, the cost ended up around 60.00 a pair including decal and shipping for me to break even, certainly costly for me, but I was glad to help many others out by doing it. It really would be fairly easy to get a couple plates cut to size and then drill and cut the holes using a Dremel tool. I had decals made at Office Depot by having them scan an original plate and print decals from it.
Damn okay. Well I appreciate the replies for sure! I will try my best I'm so disappointed but its not shocking. I paid $30 fory pair of 4029's so I definitely have some work ahead of me.
 
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Damn okay. Well I appreciate the replies for sure! I will try my best I'm so disappointed but its not shocking. I paid $30 fory pair of 4029's so I definitely have some work ahead of me.
Sorry I couldn't be more help, good luck with them!
 
**This is what I dug up for the 4024a crossover change out of my files.


Replace the 22uf with 14uf (Woofer)
Replace the 3mh coil with 2.7mh or wind down (Woofer)
Replace the 10uf with 8.2uf (Midrange)
Replace the 1.4mh coil with 1mh coil or wind down (Midrange)
Replace the .2 mh with .15mh (Tweeter)
Replace the 2.2uf with 4uf (Tweeter)

Follow all the other instructions in the Tier 1

Set both Midrange and Tweeter dials to 0db (4024a) or -3db (4029) for the new 0 db setting. This is because of the resistor values used in each model, the 4024a using more resistance does not need to be turned down but the 4029 does. If you want your dials at 0db on the 4029 model, you can replace the 2 ohm mid resistor with 8 ohm and replace the tweeter's 1 ohm with a 2 ohm resistor


I don't know if you're still around here, but I did this tonight and it's just superb.
 
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