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Realistic SA-2001 good quality schematic diagram

S

skykingrc

New Member
Hello everyone,

Does someone have a good quality schematic diagram for a Realistic SA-2001 amp? I downloaded the one from the AK database. Schematic is terrible. Looks like many of the common audio sites have that same manual.

I want to restore one that I own but need a better diagram.

Thanks, Ken Mitchell
 
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I have the same amplifier. I think it's probably the best integrated RS had made for them. The only issues were burned out meter lights, a real pain to get to. It take a lot of extra dismantling to get to them, and an issue withs with the power supply. The voltages were off. Several of the capacitors were either bulging or burnt. One sits very close to the hot running regulator. This was causing thermal shutdown after the amp had been on for awhile. I had the same problem with finding a drawing. Non I found were high enough res. To properly read values. Are you having issues with the amp, or just doing a recap?
 
Thanks for the reply. I had both pieces amp / tuner when I was in high school in 1979. Probably sold them because I needed gas money at that age - LOL. I finally found a set not far from me and bought them. Their in decent condition. Agreed the power supply board gets very hot. Planning to add a better heat sink to the pass regulator transistor. Planning to recap both the power supply and amplifier boards. Was just hoping to find a better schematic. Someone on AK had one but I can't find that thread now.
Will replace all lamps with LED cool white lamps. But who knows when. Customers come before my goodies get looked at.
 
The lamps are those skinny reed type with a wire coming out each end and soldered in. I did use your basic fuse lamps in mine though. There is just enough room. Just be careful of shorting the end caps. I wasn't kidding about a complete tear down to get to them. And lots of screws since the pots and switches have to be unsecured to get the inner faceplate off just to get to the lamp housing that has more screws. I sanded the fuse lamp end caps some to rough them up to hold solder. You will have to solder wires to the ends, then to the small board they are mounted on. Fuse lamp LEDs should work just the same. A bigger heatsink is a good idea. I found a taller one in my parts bins and used it. It did reduce the heat some. I used 105° caps. I went with a smaller diameter cap for the one that got real hot and burnt. It gives a bit more space between the regulator and the cap.
You can just write down the caps you need from what's on the boards. That's what I did. One thing though, make sure before removing any electrolytic caps mark the (-) side on the PCB. Realistic was famous among others for mismarking the boards. The SA-1000A I recapped was really bad. 6 alone on the tone board were marked backwards. Just use a sharpie and put a dot on the board for the (-) side.
 
skykingrc said:
Hello everyone,

Does someone have a good quality schematic diagram for a Realistic SA-2001 amp? I downloaded the one from the AK database. Schematic is terrible. Looks like many of the common audio sites have that same manual.

I want to restore one that I own but need a better diagram.

Thanks, Ken Mitchell
Click to expand...
i have a clear schematic if you still need it.
 
skykingrc said:
Thanks for the reply. I had both pieces amp / tuner when I was in high school in 1979. Probably sold them because I needed gas money at that age - LOL. I finally found a set not far from me and bought them. Their in decent condition. Agreed the power supply board gets very hot. Planning to add a better heat sink to the pass regulator transistor. Planning to recap both the power supply and amplifier boards. Was just hoping to find a better schematic. Someone on AK had one but I can't find that thread now.
Will replace all lamps with LED cool white lamps. But who knows when. Customers come before my goodies get looked at.
Click to expand...
Those meter lamps in the amplifier are very difficult to get to. You have to remove the face plate, remove all screws and nuts holding the controls and switches, then remove the screws holding the front of the chassis so it can be removed, then there are more screws to get the plate off the back of the meter housing. The bulbs are bulbs with a wire coming out of each end and soldered to a small PCB. I just use some fuse style lamps I had on hand by soldering wires to the end caps and soldering them to the PCB.
If I had some LED's on hand I would have used them.
It's a real PITA to get to those two bulbs. :rant:
 
Lavane said:
Those meter lamps in the amplifier are very difficult to get to. You have to remove the face plate, remove all screws and nuts holding the controls and switches, then remove the screws holding the front of the chassis so it can be removed, then there are more screws to get the plate off the back of the meter housing. The bulbs are bulbs with a wire coming out of each end and soldered to a small PCB. I just use some fuse style lamps I had on hand by soldering wires to the end caps and soldering them to the PCB.
If I had some LED's on hand I would have used them.
It's a real PITA to get to those two bulbs. :rant:
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip. Yes that does sound like a PITA. I have some warm-white and cool-blue led fuses lamps - was planning to convert them.
 
Twinsig said:
Yes, Another vote for upload please..Got one in my resto stack.
Click to expand...
What problems are you having with yours? The power supply board for one needed attention in mine. Now there is a channel that fades out after about 20 minutes. I'm thinking the thermal device on that channel is tripping too early? But I really do want a readable schematic before digging into it again.
I really do think this was the bast integrated amp RS sold though. It has great features you usually found on much more expensive amps or preamps.
 
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mine is a basket case and unless craig kicks-in with a readable schem, we;re all up the creek. that fuzzy drawing is useless and i wont even try to use it!
 
Twinsig said:
mine is a basket case and unless craig kicks-in with a readable schem, we;re all up the creek. that fuzzy drawing is useless and i wont even try to use it!
Click to expand...
I kind of understand the circuit design overall. Like bias and DC offset are done with fixed resistors. The two trim pots on the amp board are just to set and balance voltage between the two channels.
A clear schematic would be very helpful though.
Craig hasn't been on since his above post yesterday. Hopefully he he sees this thread again and his PM's.
 
Twinsig said:
mine is a basket case and unless craig kicks-in with a readable schem, we;re all up the creek. that fuzzy drawing is useless and i wont even try to use it!
Click to expand...
I posted it in the post I made just above this one. I hope it helps.
 
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