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Rebuilding a set of AR4xs...help with crossover/cap replacement

Oh I was mistaken. It is a normal 3 prong. I just need to figure out what the orientation is between the three wires.. maybe if I follow how the pots are wired, that'll be it? A photo would be helpful if anyone has one?
 
I think there may be someone else posting on rewiring AR 4xs right now - I think there were pictures.
 
Can't find that threat... but I did find a classicspeakers thread that's somewhat relevant. I have the same configuration as that poster -- three wires (black, blue, green) coming out of the old cap (s?). Big question is how to deal with the black lead once I reconnect the blue and green to either side of the new cap...
 
@Nicholas M

The other thread you recently posted to was from 14yrs ago, I doubt you'll be getting a reply.

allsmith

Thread 'AR4X project finished'

Well with help from everybody here at AK,I got my AR4X's all repaired and up any playing music again! They came to me with both tweeters not working, so i opened them up, saving the original grill cloth. I found after removing both potentiometers, that they were corroded beyond cleaning. I installed new L-pads from parts express, with a 25 ohm resistor across the tweeter leads(Roy C's design to get as original as possible control over the tweeters as the original pots had), also put in new Dayton 5% polypropylene capacitors. Everthing all soldered in place. I resealed all drivers to...

The one @Nat mentioned is recent as of this past Friday as seen below.

K

Thread 'AR-4x wiring'

Hi all,

Long-time reader here, first time poster. I've absorbing lots of great information on the AR-4x, a pair of which I just got from a "moving sale." Initial listening test - one sounded really good, aside from crackly pots (which I plan to clean - using posts from AK :)). The other has definite issues - really "muffled" sound. As mentioned, I plan to clean both pots. I dissembled the faulty speaker, tested the drivers separately with a multimeter, and they both test well. I plan to also replace the caps with new Dayton Audio (also resourced from an AK post or two). Anyhoo...
 
Oh I saw! Thanks. I just cross-posted into that. Somewhat helpful except I realised my pair is that less common variation of the 4x in that it has a AR4 woofer with the low pass filter, indicated by a black lead coming from an additional 24uf cap. This means my crossover will require 2 new caps and an additiona lead. Trying to understand how this all works out.
 
This might help you: https://community.classicspeakerpages.net/topic/9469-ar4x-crossover-rebuild-check/

There seems to be some confusion between the AR4Xs you have and what most have. Looks like at some point AR added the 24 uf parallel capacitor probably because they began installing a different version woofer. Someone on that thread mentioned deleting that 24 uf cap. I'd probably buy them and experiment with removing or reducing it but I'm a tweaker.

I see where somebody added a 25 ohm parallel resistor to the tweeter on the normal woofer version. I really don't see the usefulness of that. Doesn't really do much that you can't do with the L-Pad.
 
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