Recap parts list for an MX-110 Z??
- Thread starter scootchu
- Start date
scootchu
Dear Sir or Madman
I suppose I did. It had the markdown in the price column. Those multi-section caps are expensive. I went with 2 of the 50x4 caps after reading your thread. I plan on installing 4 new diodes and thought I should since TerryW recommmended beefier caps.
I don't think I will wind up re-stuffing the can with the 1000uf and 2000uf caps like you did, but never say never.
Destructor
Super Member
I found that prepping the original wires for soldering to the can caps was a real pain as there is almost no slack. The 110 was a challenging piece to work on when it comes to desoldering, bendinding new part's leads for routing and new soldering because of the tight spaces. I love my 110.
scootchu
Dear Sir or Madman
Just a hypothetical; If you clipped the lead of the old cap with about 1/4" left on the terminal or lug and then soldered directly to that, besides being ugly if not shrinkwrapped, would it affect the value of the cap at all?
I'm not sure that I follow you but there should be enough slack if you clip the wire right at the lug on the cap, strip about 1/4", and attach the wire to the new solder lug. It takes quite a bit of skill to get the old solder off and unwind the wire from the old lug without melting a bunch of insulation off the wire. If you end up with a wire that's too short, you can always replace it.
Murray
Murray
Destructor
Super Member
On mine there was enough slack in the wire for soldering it to a new part but stripping the wire back enough was the most difficult task, It takes patience but can certainly be done.
scootchu
Dear Sir or Madman
Some parts, some progress
Diodes
before:
After with new 10uf cap
1000uf and 2000uf multi-section
Before:
Chickened out with re-stuffing can. Soldered a terminal strip to the existing lug and mounted them underneath.
New 12uf electrolytic
Bumble bees replaced with MPW Film caps.
Still waiting for the new multi section caps from AES.
Diodes
before:
After with new 10uf cap
1000uf and 2000uf multi-section
Before:
Chickened out with re-stuffing can. Soldered a terminal strip to the existing lug and mounted them underneath.
New 12uf electrolytic
Bumble bees replaced with MPW Film caps.
Still waiting for the new multi section caps from AES.
Ok, looks pretty good. One thing that I do, that's a little different, is when making connections with "hard" leads, like the diodes, just make one 90 degree turn on the end to be soldered. They really don't need to be wrapped, imo. Take 2 pair of small "wire pliers" and hold the diode lead inside of the solder lug and then bend the part outside of the lug. That keeps it from "pulling through" the solder lug when bending.
And one other thing that's just an observation is that it looks like your solder joints are a little cold. Clean your iron tip on a wet sponge, hold the tip against the lug and touch the solder between the lug and tip. Let a little bit flow into the joint and it will heat it up enough to where you can apply solder to the opposite side and get a nice smooth joint. Not a criticism, just an observation.
A ways to go but you've got a good start. :thmbsp:
Murray
And one other thing that's just an observation is that it looks like your solder joints are a little cold. Clean your iron tip on a wet sponge, hold the tip against the lug and touch the solder between the lug and tip. Let a little bit flow into the joint and it will heat it up enough to where you can apply solder to the opposite side and get a nice smooth joint. Not a criticism, just an observation.
A ways to go but you've got a good start. :thmbsp:
Murray
scootchu
Dear Sir or Madman
You are right. My head wasn't in it tonight. I mean I was looking for a distraction from work. We just found out yesterday over 300 people in our company (basically the whole department)will have their jobs eliminated. I will go over the joints again when I am thinking a bit more clearly.
I did take my mind off of things tonight though. 
scootchu
Dear Sir or Madman
Thanks David and Murray,
I hope my multi section caps come in soon. I would like to get them in.
On another note I found out what all the fuss about Wenol is. I found it locally at a kitchen store and holy mackeral that stuff is great. I know that care has to be given around the silkscreening, but it will shine anything!
I did the platter on my Thorens and like others said, was looking for anything to use it on. Great stuff.
I hope my multi section caps come in soon. I would like to get them in.
On another note I found out what all the fuss about Wenol is. I found it locally at a kitchen store and holy mackeral that stuff is great. I know that care has to be given around the silkscreening, but it will shine anything!
I did the platter on my Thorens and like others said, was looking for anything to use it on. Great stuff.
scootchu
Dear Sir or Madman
Finished the rest of the caps and the CL-80 Thermistor. I first plugged in and with one hand on the plug I turned it on. No smoke, no cracking, popping or strange smells.
As you can see I had to shoe horn these caps in with a bit of vaseline, but they fit.
Now when I first powered it up I got a hum, but I moved the preamp and switched amps and now it's dead quiet. I am going to give it some time to warm up, but so far it sounds good.
After 15 mins or so the transformer is barely warm.
I am not sure how to check the voltages. Do I do it via the test points on this preamp?
As you can see I had to shoe horn these caps in with a bit of vaseline, but they fit.
Now when I first powered it up I got a hum, but I moved the preamp and switched amps and now it's dead quiet. I am going to give it some time to warm up, but so far it sounds good.
After 15 mins or so the transformer is barely warm.
I am not sure how to check the voltages. Do I do it via the test points on this preamp?
Well it works and I think that's a good sign. :thmbsp:
Look at the schematic and check the voltages at the power supply - 225v, 170v, 155v, 108v and 83v. Get a pencil and paper and write them down. Yours will likely be a little higher than the shcematic.
Nice job.
Murray
Look at the schematic and check the voltages at the power supply - 225v, 170v, 155v, 108v and 83v. Get a pencil and paper and write them down. Yours will likely be a little higher than the shcematic.
Nice job.
Murray
dshoaf
That high voltage buzz
Cool, dude. Nice work. From what I remember of the days of building Heathkits, there's nothing like that moment when you first plug it in after all that hard work - and....it works!
Just a word of warning: Don't let it go to your head. You'll learn more on the ones that don't power up right the first time.
Still, your workmanship is excellent and the MX-110 I would consider a meduim-complexity device to work on mainly due to the difficulty of getting all the caps in place in pretty cramped quarters.
I agree with Murray to check all the voltages on the power supply first, then do the same all through the preamp sections where you swapped caps just to confirm that everything is doing ok.
BTW, did you catch those 2 caps connected to the Tape Monitor switch, too? I'm sure you did but just checking.
Cheers,
David
Just a word of warning: Don't let it go to your head. You'll learn more on the ones that don't power up right the first time.
Still, your workmanship is excellent and the MX-110 I would consider a meduim-complexity device to work on mainly due to the difficulty of getting all the caps in place in pretty cramped quarters.
I agree with Murray to check all the voltages on the power supply first, then do the same all through the preamp sections where you swapped caps just to confirm that everything is doing ok.
BTW, did you catch those 2 caps connected to the Tape Monitor switch, too? I'm sure you did but just checking.
Cheers,
David
scootchu
Dear Sir or Madman
Thanks for all the help!!!
I do appreciate the guidance. Been out of touch the last week or so due to my job, or lack thereof come January so I apologize.
On a positive note, stopped by a fellow AK-ers house and as luck would have it he had an L-52 cab that he wasn't fond of and ... I was. So after some glass and trim detail, here's a pic. It sounds wonderful and looks the same.
I do appreciate the guidance. Been out of touch the last week or so due to my job, or lack thereof come January so I apologize.
On a positive note, stopped by a fellow AK-ers house and as luck would have it he had an L-52 cab that he wasn't fond of and ... I was. So after some glass and trim detail, here's a pic. It sounds wonderful and looks the same.
dshoaf
That high voltage buzz
There's nothing like that warm, green glow inside that walnut cabinet, n'est pas? Add a couple of tube power amps on either side - plus a bit of cognac and some good music for the evening to celebrate a job well done.
BTW, your posts prompted me to reinsert my MX-110 in place of the C2200 the other evening. It really does perform, doesn't it?
Congrats....
Cheers,
David
BTW, your posts prompted me to reinsert my MX-110 in place of the C2200 the other evening. It really does perform, doesn't it?
Congrats....
Cheers,
David
Destructor
Super Member
Nice work, I rotated my restored 110 into my system this past august. I decided it would be my main system at least most of the time. It is a beautiful device and sounds fantastic with my somewhat updated 90's production ST70 Series 2 or my AES Superamp. I also noticed more punch after restoring the power supply. I performed much of the work you have but the phono section is still stock as well as the FM section. The FM section is fantastic.