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Record clamps: Ok, consider me converted.

That's more or less what the Linn people say on the forum. Probably your turntable needed a tune and the extra weight of the puck has given it that.

Anyway, given the fine turntable you have, I'd get your table retuned and throw away the clamp. Running the risk of trashing the main bearing is far too great, or it would be for me if I were you.
 
Decided to test the weight vs. clamp theory. As I carefully constructed this system as a clamp, rather than a weight (read: I drilled the hole too small, so it's very snug on the spindle) it allows me to attach it to the platter without clamping the record in place. I twist the puck onto the spindle, leaving room between it and the record.

With the weight (and not the clamping force) of the puck, the sound is somewhat improved over stock, but the majority of the improvement becomes apparent when you use the puck to force the record against the mat. So both arguments hold water, but the clamping effect is contributing more to the improvement.

As to Linn not recommending a weight, I can understand their not wanting 2+ pounds on the bearing. This is a hockey puck, weighing in at 5.5 - 6 ounces (less the mass I removed with the drill). I plan to take another puck (bought a 3-pack for $5.99) to a local woodworking shop, and ask them to throw it on a lathe. Then I can make sure the hole is centered, perhaps take off the texture and the "made in slovakia" imprint from the sides, and maybe even drill out some lightening holes to ensure maximum longevity in the bearing.
 
I've had good results with the Pickering Red Button Clamp on a suspended table.
It is not heavy enough to upset a 3 point suspension and sometimes you do need to press down quite firmly to lock it to the spindle.
The only caveat being that this locking action can temporarily add a lot of downforce to the bearing.
As a precaution I just shim the platter with two halves of a wooden clothes peg while doing this..
Its not something you would want to do for every record though.
Soundwise...?

Well it's been pretty handy for making archival recordings from thin or slightly warped pressings.
It will keep a 'mildly' concave record flat... but less so a record with a convex warp..(although it will couple it more firmly to the spindle to help stop it slipping under stylus drag)


Best sonic improvements that i've noticed tends to be in the solidity of the bass and a general improvement in the focus of the sound .. (but mostly with those thin pressings).

For those records as thick as a dinner plate (don't you just love those? :D).. I find it's not necessary to use a clamp (or any other form of coupling) as long as the record is pretty flat .
 
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i want to weigh in one more time that CLAMPS are superior to weights. weight isnt so much of an improvement as the intimate contact yielded by the use of a clamp. even the radio shack plastic one i used with my kenwood kd500 improved its sound.

a reflex clamp such as the sota with its center washer for over the spindle physically presses the outer portion of the vinyl down to the platter. its very effective on mild warpage. a periphery ring would be much more effective if more costly. i would use both the reflex and ring (if i had a ring).
 
Avole good advice re following Linns instructions, do otherwise and suffer the consequences. It would seem reasonable that Linn has devoted quite a bit of time/effort on an ongoing basis over many years and experimented with numerous options includeing weights/clamps and Linn would of provided or recommended a weight/clamp if they felt it was an improvement. I wouldn't take their advice lightly but it's your turntable to do as you please.
 
i want to weigh in one more time that CLAMPS are superior to weights. weight isnt so much of an improvement as the intimate contact yielded by the use of a clamp. even the radio shack plastic one i used with my kenwood kd500 improved its sound.

a reflex clamp such as the sota with its center washer for over the spindle physically presses the outer portion of the vinyl down to the platter. its very effective on mild warpage. a periphery ring would be much more effective if more costly. i would use both the reflex and ring (if i had a ring).





Let's please not get into that tired debate yet again. Bottom line.....a clamping device of some sort is better than none at all. There are pros and cons to each type.....let's just leave it at that.
 
To dampen room vibration place the turntable on a heavy solid stable stand/shelf etc or you will need a weight/clamp that will weigh more than the turntable to damp vibration.
 
To dampen room vibration place the turntable on a heavy solid stable stand/shelf etc or you will need a weight/clamp that will weigh more than the turntable to damp vibration.

Thank you for the heads up! Do the dampening feet you see all over work? :scratch2: Or the trays?
 
Just about all these aftermarket feet, trays etc arn't necessary if the turntable is installed LEVEL on a solid/stable preferably heavy stand/shelf etc. I use Target wall shelves and I have totally eliminated any need for these items and I'v used multiple turntables on them and their was zero vibration effecting any turntable. Also avoid anything with glass shelves.
 
Just about all these aftermarket feet, trays etc arn't necessary if the turntable is installed LEVEL on a solid/stable preferably heavy stand/shelf etc. I use Target wall shelves and I have totally eliminated any need for these items and I'v used multiple turntables on them and their was zero vibration effecting any turntable. Also avoid anything with glass shelves.

My issue is apparently in my flooring. The stand I have it on is quite heavy so I thought it would absorb properly. (I was wrong, you can tap the entertainment stand and watch the speakers "pump"). Trying to figure out a solution now. Starting to look like either a wall mount (My space is tight) or placing it in a remote location.
 
gunpoet I also have wood floors and that's the reason I went with the wall shelf. Nothing I can do disrupts the turntable, jump up and down, you name it the stylus stays in the groove, the shelf is screwed into the wall studs and it ain't budging.
 
gunpoet I also have wood floors and that's the reason I went with the wall shelf. Nothing I can do disrupts the turntable, jump up and down, you name it the stylus stays in the groove, the shelf is screwed into the wall studs and it ain't budging.

Thank you for the info! I checked the wall I want to use as a mount point and my stud finder is going "ape". (The wall has a wood covering causing the tool's confusion. I am most likely going with the wall mount, it seems to me the most practical / economical solution.
 
So is it the weight of the puck that drives the music to a much more refined sound? I have tried some stupid experiments with a weighted device but haven't gotten to much difference. Clamped vs weighted. What is the best? Also putting "O" rings on the tone arm. Is that a good thing to do?

Don't get me wrong. I'm not bashing anything about this. I just want to understand about it to incorporate such a thing in my system.
 
So is it the weight of the puck that drives the music to a much more refined sound? I have tried some stupid experiments with a weighted device but haven't gotten to much difference. Clamped vs weighted. What is the best? Also putting "O" rings on the tone arm. Is that a good thing to do?

Don't get me wrong. I'm not bashing anything about this. I just want to understand about it to incorporate such a thing in my system.

Curious about the O-rings myself!
 
What do you guys mean by "suspended" turntable? I've seen this mentioned on the board and had this vision of TTs on planks suspended from the ceiling or something?!

:dunno:

Does this refer to special legs with "shock absorbers"?
 
A suspended Turntable has some sort of suspension system to dampen vibration whereas a Non-Suspended Table does not. I'm a newbie (so to speak) but that has been my observation.
 
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