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Rectilinear III and DQ-10 specialists - what mid?

Njord Noatun

Super Member
Banned
What Philips mid is used in your Rectilinear III or Dahlquist DQ-10 speaker?

I have seen the following references to the factory 5" 8 ohm Philips drivers in these speakers:
  • Philips AD-5060/M8 (ferrite)
  • Philips AD-5061/M8 (ferrite)
  • Philips unknown model (alnico): EDIT: Subsequent research suggests that the alnico model is Philips AD 3500M.
Any feedback on what model is in your cabinet? What is the pecking order of these three drivers? What other speakers than the III and DQ-10 were they used in?

Thanks.
 
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The DQ-10's I had used the Philips AD5060/W8 for the midbass, same as the Infinity Quantum 2s for that matter.

Why do you need to know? Have one that went bad?

- JP
 
The DQ-10's I had used the Philips AD5060/W8 for the midbass, same as the Infinity Quantum 2s for that matter. Why do you need to know? Have one that went bad?
Mine are fine for now, but the mids have been reported to be a little fragile and it would be good to have a spare pair, so I would like to be familiar with the model number(s) when they come up for sale.
 
Mine are fine for now, but the mids have been reported to be a little fragile and it would be good to have a spare pair, so I would like to be familiar with the model number(s) when they come up for sale.
I've found them to be fairly robust except for one weakness. The solder joints where the tinsels meet the VC wire on the cone tend to break down. Scrape that clean, solder it up, and throw a new coating on (nail polish should work) and the driver should keep on going. The butyl surround does break down eventually when exposed to the elements and Regnar offers rebuilding services for that issue at a hefty price.

- JP
 
Note how the magnet size increases and the surround changes with time.
A whizzer cone type is ALWAYS indicated with a M and nothing else.

Can I assume that AD-3501 and AD-5061 are not interchangeable in a pair of speakers, as the crossover is designed to fit one (but not the other) type of driver? In other words, I will need to know which version of x-over goes with what driver in order to successfully source a set of replacement drivers?
 
I've found them to be fairly robust except for one weakness. The solder joints where the tinsels meet the VC wire on the cone tend to break down. Scrape that clean, solder it up, and throw a new coating on (nail polish should work) and the driver should keep on going. The butyl surround does break down eventually when exposed to the elements and Regnar offers rebuilding services for that issue at a hefty price.

- JP
Funny, my Rec. III's have a non-doped fabric surround. Are these the same drivers? Mine sure looks original, though. The same color, and of type of caulking around them as all the other drivers in the cabinet.

And yes, Regnar does charge a very hefty price for their work. I had them rebuild the woofers for my DQ-6's.
 
Funny, my Rec. III's have a non-doped fabric surround. Are these the same drivers? Mine sure looks original, though. The same color, and of type of caulking around them as all the other drivers in the cabinet.
Are you sure that they're Philips AD5060/W8s? As I've never seen them with anything but butyl surrounds. Maybe yours are a slightly different model.

- JP
 
Are you sure that they're Philips AD5060/W8s? As I've never seen them with anything but butyl surrounds. Maybe yours are a slightly different model.

- JP
No I'm not sure what model they are. They are literally encased in caulk, front and back, and the rear of the driver is covered with a plastic tupperware container, caulked and filled with glue and fiberglass.
Mine work fine, it seems, so I'd be hesitant to remove the caulking and plastic covers just to identify the driver model number. I can post a pic if you like?
 
I'm no speaker expert by far. And without being able to see the backs of mine, as it encased in a plastic bubble. The front looks exactly like the mid in my Rectilinear III's ca, early 1970's.
Right down to the foam gasket on top, and the octagon shape.
No I'm not sure what model they are.
I believe that regardless of whether it is the earlier 3501M or the later 5061M, your mid should look essentially like thls (the difference between the two versions is obvious from the rear, with one being the AlNiCo (early) and one being Ferrite (late). It should be mounted with a clear, soft-ish silicone glue.
 
I believe that regardless of whether it is the earlier 3501M or the later 5061M, your mid should look essentially like thls (the difference between the two versions is obvious from the rear, with one being the AlNiCo (early) and one being Ferrite (late). It should be mounted with a clear, soft-ish silicone glue.

Yes those are the same exact ones in my Rec III's, as well. But those don't appear to be butyl rubber surrounds, as mentioned by Charivari. And mine have NO doping whatsoever on the surrounds, none at all, unlike the driver pictured. Just plain bare fabric, starting to turn yellow with age, in my Hiboys.

Njord, are your mid surrounds doped, as they are shown in the picture, or do you have butyl rubber surrounds?
 
Njord, are your mid surrounds doped, as they are shown in the picture, or do you have butyl rubber surrounds?
Doesn't look like butyl to me - please see attached, SJ. I believe I have the AlNiCo variety (Philips AD 3501/M8 ???) in my speakers (they are glued in and I can't easily get to the back of them.

The picture I posted earlier is for my spare driver pair, known to be Philips AD5061/M8. That surround does not look like butyl, either.
 

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It would appear that maybe the butyl surrounds are specific to the AD5060/W8. For those used in the DQ-10s, Infinity Quantum series, etc all use butyl surrounds.

Proof:



- JP
 
Doesn't look like butyl to me - please see attached, SJ. I believe I have the AlNiCo variety (Philips AD 3501/M8 ???) in my speakers (they are glued in and I can't easily get to the back of them.

The picture I posted earlier is for my spare driver pair, known to be Philips AD5061/M8. That surround does not look like butyl, either.

I'm going to have to post some close-up pics of my mid drivers. As the surrounds on mine is neither butyl, nor are they pleated, or even lightly doped. My surrounds are a very soft, fine weave, uncoated yellowy fabric, with a single convex round roll.
 
Here are a couple of close-up pics, showing my fabric, non-doped surrounds.
 

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Here are a couple of close-up pics, showing my fabric, non-doped surrounds.
I haven't seen that variety before, and I checked this Dutch web site for vintage Philips drivers, and could not find yours.

However, they are pretty certainly Philips: They have Philips' trademark octagonal basket, and the goop with which they are attached to the baffle seems unmolested. They also look like exactly like the 3560/5060/5061 M (whizzer cone) models, except for the type of surround.

Hopefully someone here can explain the cloth surrounds.
 
I think the pair of Hiboys Snade has are closer to the generation I have. And are of a similar vintage, two pots, similar grill cloth, etc., although his woofers differ from mine, IIRC.

Although, I did see a pair of Rec. III's on the local CL, that had the front loaded, 8 screw woofers, just like Snades.

Perhaps he will chime in with pics of his mid drivers so we can compare all three of ours.
 
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