• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Rectilinear III - Specs, Freq. Response and Original Price

I'm in NJ, a couple miles west of Manhattan.
There is a pair for sale over on the Big Board located on the West Coast, starting price $29. Being reasonably close, and Recti's being fairly rare out here, I was contemplating getting them if they go cheap (any kind of commercial transport is a dealbreaker for these heavy beasts), if nothing else for the drivers and x-over.

I thought for some reason that you might be located out this way.
 
Close-up of Crossover

In the pic of the crossover above, there is a loose black wire coming off the coil to the right of the pots. It's the one near the top of the picture, it's almost touching the terminal to the far left in the pic. Does anyone know which terminal on that pot it's really supposed to go to?

And is it true these crossover aren't screwed in, but merely glued into the back panel? I can't see any screws anywhere.

Johnny,

Here is a shot of my crossover. If you track the black wire from the right coil, I think it connects to the left terminal of the right pot, as you look at in this photo.

Hope this helps.

Snade

rectilinear_crossover.jpg
 
Snade: do you know what the EIA code on that woofer is? Maybe you've run across yet another version of the Rec III that uses a completely different woofer. . .

Judge, Here are photos and numbers on my woofers:

On back of magnet:

12L 300A
137 7318N

(I think the second number means it is a CTS (Chicago Telephone Supply) woofer made in 1973, is that correct ?? )

Printed on woofer cone: 63512344

Here are the photos:


rectilinear_woofer.jpg



rectilinear_woofer_2.jpg



rectilinear_woofer_3.jpg



Cheers, Snade
 
Dude you just cannot pass up a deal can you? I think we discussed this phenomenon and you are still trolling CL like a madman haha.

Evan
 
I have a question about replacements/spares for the Highboy and Lowboy mid. Not wanting to derail this thread, and to access a broader audience, I have posted the query here.

Perhaps the Recti specialists in this thread would be interested in chiming in. Thanks!

All the best,
 
Okay, Snade's pic of the crossover definitely cleared up what's going on with your xover, Johnny. The left-most connector of the right-hand pot is the one. (In the 1971 schematic this is the connection between the upper "32 ohm pot" to just above the lower coil, marked "101 (1.0 mh?)"

Those are definitely interesting CTS woofers. The alnico magnet seems like it should be an earlier version, but the date is 1973, and the surrounds are very strange. Instead of the normal treated coil surrounds, it looks like they took regular foam surrounds, inverted them, and treated them with something. The version being sold on ebay looks like identical except it has regular old foam surrounds and they aren't inverted. I assume the treated surrounds are intact?

Perhaps yours was an even later version with slightly different woofers. Interesting that they mounted them to the front, which would theoretically have a bit better phase coherence (although neither are all that great) and less diffraction, as I understand it.

I also want to repeat that I HIGHLY recommend recapping those crossovers to get the most out of those great peerless tweeters. Saintjohnny and Snade, looks like you've got the 60uF and 2uF version; and Njord, looks like you've got the 100uF and 2uF version. I used solens for the larger values, and splurged for film caps for the tweeters.
 
I have a question about replacements/spares for the Highboy and Lowboy mid. Not wanting to derail this thread, and to access a broader audience, I have posted the query here.

Perhaps the Recti specialists in this thread would be interested in chiming in. Thanks!

All the best,

Hey Njord, those are perfect. I've seen both the alnico and the ferrite magnet versions used in the Rec III. Either one should be fine. The 5060/M8, 5061/M8, and all other similar version should all work well. DC2710 (is that his handle?) even used the philips mid without a whizzer, and then carefully glued a whizzer onto it. He reports that it worked like a charm.
 
Those are definitely interesting CTS woofers. The alnico magnet seems like it should be an earlier version, but the date is 1973, and the surrounds are very strange. Instead of the normal treated coil surrounds, it looks like they took regular foam surrounds, inverted them, and treated them with something. The version being sold on ebay looks like identical except it has regular old foam surrounds and they aren't inverted. I assume the treated surrounds are intact?

Surrounds are fine and feel like cloth to me, not foam.

Thanks for the info.

Snade.
 
Johnny,

Here is a shot of my crossover. If you track the black wire from the right coil, I think it connects to the left terminal of the right pot, as you look at in this photo.

Hope this helps.

Snade

rectilinear_crossover.jpg
Thanks Snade! It helps a great deal. I see you have a jumper between your two pots, I'll to see if I have the same.

Njord:
Sorry, east coast boy, born and bred. :yes:
Yes. I was going to mention those on the auction site. Definitely worth getting if they go for near the $29.00, just for the parts alone. If they were near me, I'd be all over them. Just to have another black and gold nameplate, wait they don't have original grills, do they? But they are a real early pair. They have a single pot, white colored crossover plate that reads..."Brooklyn, NY"., IIRC. Not the more common, "Bruckner Ave. Bronx, NY".
 
Okay, Snade's pic of the crossover definitely cleared up what's going on with your xover, Johnny. The left-most connector of the right-hand pot is the one. (In the 1971 schematic this is the connection between the upper "32 ohm pot" to just above the lower coil, marked "101 (1.0 mh?)"

Those are definitely interesting CTS woofers. The alnico magnet seems like it should be an earlier version, but the date is 1973, and the surrounds are very strange. Instead of the normal treated coil surrounds, it looks like they took regular foam surrounds, inverted them, and treated them with something. The version being sold on ebay looks like identical except it has regular old foam surrounds and they aren't inverted. I assume the treated surrounds are intact?

Perhaps yours was an even later version with slightly different woofers. Interesting that they mounted them to the front, which would theoretically have a bit better phase coherence (although neither are all that great) and less diffraction, as I understand it.

I also want to repeat that I HIGHLY recommend recapping those crossovers to get the most out of those great peerless tweeters. Saintjohnny and Snade, looks like you've got the 60uF and 2uF version; and Njord, looks like you've got the 100uF and 2uF version. I used solens for the larger values, and splurged for film caps for the tweeters.

judgeschreber:

How did you get the crossovers out to recap? And better still how did you reattach them to the back panel, when finished? Glue, glue gun? Putty, nails, screws?
 
judgeschreber:

How did you get the crossovers out to recap? And better still how did you reattach them to the back panel, when finished? Glue, glue gun? Putty, nails, screws?

I didn't take out the crossovers. I just snipped the caps out, and soldered the news ones in their place. Very easy--I have very little DIY electronics experience and it was not difficult at all.
 
Definitely worth getting if they go for near the $29.00, just for the parts alone. If they were near me, I'd be all over them. Just to have another black and gold nameplate, wait they don't have original grills, do they?
Not original grilles, but they are trashed and need to be replaced anyway. I have asked the seller if the grille badges are present.

NN
 
Just to have another black and gold nameplate, wait they don't have original grills, do they?
The seller loaded up a few more photos and guess what - there seems to be one badge still present.

Cabs don't even look too shabby - perfectly restorable with some care. I would hate to part them out if the cabs are good, though.
 
The seller loaded up a few more photos and guess what - there seems to be one badge still present.

Cabs don't even look too shabby - perfectly restorable with some care. I would hate to part them out if the cabs are good, though.

Are you gonna go for 'em then?

If they were local I'd go for 'em, just to get the Rectilinear logo.

Though I wouldn't part 'em out, either. Except for that logo, of course. :wink:
 
Great resource for newbies...just snagged a pair of Tall boys @ $5.00 ea. and Pioneer 1050 @ $10 from Salvation and your site + Wiki gave me supporting info to replace woofer surrounds w/ proper butyl material and not foam. Thanks mucho.
 
Great resource for newbies...just snagged a pair of Tall boys @ $5.00 ea. and Pioneer 1050 @ $10 from Salvation and your site + Wiki gave me supporting info to replace woofer surrounds w/ proper butyl material and not foam. Thanks mucho.

Lucky you...i have a pair of them here in denmark...its the best loudspeaker I ever had.. The bass and the midrange is fantastic. I.ll never let them go.
Best Regards
 
Last edited:
Lucky you...i have a pair of them here in denmark...its the best loudspeaker I ever had. I.ll never let them go.
Best Regards

Dito..... I consider this the best speaker I have ever owned. I have owed several. But the vintage Rect's do everything I need them too.

I absolutely love them. This is the one speaker that is made specifically for me.
 
Last edited:
Wow a blast from the past:D
Had a pair from stereo discounters the 111a's
Ran them in front with a dynaco pseudo 4 channel adaptor to a set of XII's on the back.. the bookshelf size equivelent to the III.
Sold them in middle 80's
Got another pair III's in the early 90's
Used them for a couple years and sold them.
beautiful sound easy to drive
They were a great speaker.
 
I am really confused on what caps to buy for my recently acquired highboys. The smaller cap is clearly labled as 2.0uf 250v. but the larger one is elusive. Can anyone tell me how to tell what cap to buy? my serial number is 23975 and it also has a single knob for tweeter adjustment.


[/QUOTE]I also want to repeat that I HIGHLY recommend recapping those crossovers to get the most out of those great peerless tweeters. Saintjohnny and Snade, looks like you've got the 60uF and 2uF version; and Njord, looks like you've got the 100uF and 2uF version. I used solens for the larger values, and splurged for film caps for the tweeters.[/QUOTE]
 
.... and from reading the archives, I think I have 'version #1' from the late 1960s. any thoughts on what UF the larger cap is suppose to be?
also, now I need a replacement midrange, as one is DOA. what would be a good replacement for cheap?
 
Back
Top Bottom