SonofJames
Addicted Member
Looking for some easy tips for refreshing the finish a little on vintage Wharfedale W70's.
Thank you Kindly.
Thank you Kindly.
Refreshing Finish On Vintage Speaker Cabinets ?
- Thread starter SonofJames
- Start date
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Porkloin
Oscar Heil Groupie
I would guess by the vintage that they'd be greased up with some oil product, as opposed to lacquer or polyurethane. I think guys have had good luck around here with the Howard's Restor-A-Finish.
SonofJames
Addicted Member
I've used Murphy's Oil Soap and some ordinary furniture polish with great results, but my speakers didn't have any major issues on the finish, it just looked a little dull. I was amazed at the amount of dirt that came off those things with just the Murphy's and a little bit of elbow grease.
SonofJames
Addicted Member
I used some light 0000 Steel Wool with Howard's to apply and polish the cabinets per Howard's suggestion on the can and in some video's I watched. Worked like a charm.
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Retrovert
Addicted Member
Steel wool fragments and magnets do not mix. Suggest avoiding that.
Howard's products are pigmented beeswax (soft) plus a solvent to make it spreadable, and these oxidize, lose the lustre after a few months, and attract dust. If you want to recondition furniture for an flea market the Howard's products are perfect. Harder waxes (microcrystalline) give durable finishes.
Real finishes, like BLO + poly + turpentine (see Maloof recipe) are even better.
Once a finish has been oiled or waxed that gunk must be removed before a real finish can be applied.
Howard's products are pigmented beeswax (soft) plus a solvent to make it spreadable, and these oxidize, lose the lustre after a few months, and attract dust. If you want to recondition furniture for an flea market the Howard's products are perfect. Harder waxes (microcrystalline) give durable finishes.
Real finishes, like BLO + poly + turpentine (see Maloof recipe) are even better.
Once a finish has been oiled or waxed that gunk must be removed before a real finish can be applied.
Retrovert
Addicted Member
Feed-n-Wax is spreadable wax. Restore-A-Finish is a blend of lightweight solvents to make the petroleum oil fraction, mostly heavier paraffinic oils, spreadable. It's basically furniture oil. Should have differentiated.
None of these easy refinishing products are a substitute for a real finish. It's a quick fix which doesn't work long term. Look at some of the lustrous finishes here on AK achieved by actual refinishing. No way a beeswax or liquid oil product can match that finish.
Good work
I use Howard's feed and wax applied with 0000 steel wool as well.
1st I clean the cabinets with soap and water.
2nd I apply a heavy coat of Howard's with the 0000 whool. Let soak for 20 min, buff out with clean cloth. You must remove the oils that sit on top otherwise your cabinets will look oily...
3rd another coat with 0000, same process as above.
4th apply a wood wax. Howard's makes a good one if you want to stick with Howard's but there are many good quality waxes to work with. Must buff till you get the look you ever going for. A few coats as well to ensure your get good coverage.
Paint touch up, after getting the veneer cleaned up, I will hit all the paint spots with a paint pen or even a sharpie if they are small. (Can make a huge difference in appearances) careful with the sharpie, be sure to let dry for 3-5 sec than lightly wipe off. It will stain the wood under black.
Doing this for a set of 4301B right now, need to head to SW to get the blue paint matched for small touch ups.
Pix was taken yesterday
That was the 1st pass, they will still require work. The before pix are in the thread... they were quite rough. Waiting to get the new caps/foam in.
If you are talking a full restoration, sanding and staining is involved, or depending on how bad they are be veneer or having the cabinet cloned is always an option. There are a few folks who do so.
Good luck with it, hopefully just the Howard was good enough for your needs. Just remember to do more than one coat. One coat of the stuff is never enough. 2-4 usually will do the tick and will give you a nice even coat of wax.
Kind Regards,
John
GD70
Lunatic Member
I've had some very nice results with Watco's danish oil on my various restorations. I also agree, no steel wool as it also can leave little metal shards in the wood grain.
Glenn
Here's an ADS 1590 with Rosewood veneer, a pair of AR-3a's and JBL 4301b's with natural color oil.
Glenn
Here's an ADS 1590 with Rosewood veneer, a pair of AR-3a's and JBL 4301b's with natural color oil.
RTally
Speaker addict
You do nice work, Glenn. I love the rosewood veneer.
I, too, use Watcos natural Danish Oil. I prefer to oil liberally and then rub it in with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. I let it soak for several minutes and then wipe off. After 4 or 5 coats the finish is smooth as silk.
As others have noted, NEVER use steel wool on a speaker cabinet unless the drivers have been removed.
I've used watcos many times, it's good oil. Works well. Did a set of 166s a few years back needed to use the "dark walnut" as they were quitebeat. Sanding helped but they still had a few deep scratches. The danish oil is good... Linseed oil is also a good option.
