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refurbished AR4x- a review...

For resealing your drivers you can go to Lowe's (which is where I got the stuff) and look for the sealant they use for sealing metal duct work. It comes wrapped in a wax paper and almost black in color and runs about $3 as I recall. It is very pliable and is the same consistency and color (if not the exact same stuff) that my vintage pair used as a sealant. One brick of that stuff is more than enough to do both speakers.

If you ever rolled out "snakes" as a kid with clay or plumber's putty it is basically done the same way as sealing a drain in a kitchen sink or whatever. The excess will ooze out as you snug down the screws and you can remove the excess and use it for the next driver. Pretty simple to work with.
 
I've used RTV many times on things I've had to take apart and never had a problem. When dry the silicon is more like rubber and peals right off. It doesn't dry hard like glue. At least not the stuff I'm talking about.

I'll check at Lowes and see if I can find the stuff. Thanks
 
No need for anybody to take it personal.

Absolutely not personal. Just giving information in case you don't like the sound.

This is what mine looked like:

IMG_0250.jpg

IMGP9516.jpg
 
That's what mine looks like so I guess its fiber. I've seen your other pic several times, and I beleive several post on classicspeakers. One of the reason's I started looking for AR's. I just found one has a blown tweeter. Need to find one somewhere. Tried a 1.5v battery on it an nothing. Even tried a channel at low volume, nada.

I was able to clean the controls using a Dremel at low speed with a light sanding wheel then polish with a wire brush wheel.
 

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That's what mine looks like so I guess its fiber. I've seen your other pic several times, and I beleive several post on classicspeakers. One of the reason's I started looking for AR's. I just found one has a blown tweeter. Need to find one somewhere. Tried a 1.5v battery on it an nothing. Even tried a channel at low volume, nada.

I was able to clean the controls using a Dremel at low speed with a light sanding wheel then polish with a wire brush wheel.


I'll bet somebody who's done an econwave on these would have a tweeter or two.
 
I only have two left, and those I'm keeping for the "AR4x Crossover Upgrade Challenge." :D
 
I finally got of my fat arse!

Well, after my friend returned the AR4xa's to me, minus a tweeter,wires cut-
bla bla bla.
I was looking high and low for a replacement tweeter, I pm'ed Zilch if he had
a spare, as he seems to be e-waving everything, I thought that would be
a logical step. I guess not. (He probably thought I was a Nigerian scammer?)
I even considered AR 18 tweets as an alternative.
Luckily someone near bye was selling an AR7 speaker with clapped out woofer
but had a functioning tweeter! woo hoo.
I read what to do about corroded pots both here on AK and CSP.
Thanks chaps!! :thmbsp:
It was'nt all plain sailing as the tweeters are slightly different, hence if you
study the pics, I spent quality time with my soldering iron!
All I can say is, they sound nice!! and unusual that XA's have pots as my other pair and others I've seen on the net have switches with 3 settings.

ken
 

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Sweet. I see people are parting out AR-4x's like they do guitars to try to get more money for them. I saw a pair of tweeters for for over $60 and a complete working pair of speakers for $70 recently. The sad thing is once they are parted out they are no longer original.
 
I was wondering how you accurately weigh fiberglass.:scratch2:

I just bought a huge roll of fiberglass for my AR-4x's and a few other speaker projects.:smoke:
-

Postage scale. I think the threads I read said 17 oz. Go buy 17 oz of beef and put it on a sea saw.
 
Look for a number written on the woofer inductor. If the inductor is marked #4, the speaker originally had 17 oz of fiberglass. If it says #5, it was 11 oz.
 
The sad thing is once they are parted out they are no longer original.

Huh???
Once they are parted out, you probably have a set of cabinets on the curb and anywhere from 1-4 sets of speakers back in action. Seems like not such a bad thing to me, especially if there's issues.
 
Huh???
Once they are parted out, you probably have a set of cabinets on the curb and anywhere from 1-4 sets of speakers back in action. Seems like not such a bad thing to me, especially if there's issues.

Only a bad thing to the serious collector wanting original speakers. Same for most vintage items.

I used poly fill Acoustistuff or something like that from PE and can't tell any difference. I kept the fiber just in case. And I didn't measure it. To each his own. I do plan on putting the fiber back in.
 
Look for a number written on the woofer inductor. If the inductor is marked #4, the speaker originally had 17 oz of fiberglass. If it says #5, it was 11 oz.

Is it a 4? Or a 5? Those AR workers...:rolleyes: I haven't cracked open the other yet, so when I do that will confirm.

As you can see, they have the big block 20uf cap, also cloth surrounds, if thats any indication.:scratch2:
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Update

I cracked open the other one last night and it has the same scribble.:no:
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And like Shacky's 4x's, these also have fiberglass instead of rockwool.

gkimeng: I forgot to thank you earlier for the post on the correct weight, I remember reading that recently, but couldn't find it again. Thanks!:yes:
 

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Can someone post a pic of the rock wool? Just curious to see the difference or are they all the same and someone thinks it's rock wool.
 
If you download the "Restoring the AR-3a" PDF from CSL they have pictures of rockwool, old fiberglass, and new fiberglass.

It's a well established fact based on the research that many have done on here and CSL that AR used rockwool in their speakers when fiberglass was in short supply.
 
Hi :)

Eventhough this thread is a little bit older, the AR-4x never die..

I received my pair today and right now I ve cleaned the pots. When doing so, I compared the pictures of the inside with the ones in this thread and thought that I have a really early pair of the AR-4x. the SNs are 28976 and 28977. The big cap is clued just next to the coil and not under the coil. It is a Sprague one. Nevertheless I want to recap it. Are ther any suggestions of good caps??

Concerning the pot I think it is the same of either bypassing it at the max level or turn it at the max level without bypassing? Am I right?

Here are some pics:

img6395m.jpg

img6399u.jpg

img6403r.jpg

img6405j.jpg


Cheers,

Philipp
 
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