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REK.O.KUT Turntable? What is this thing?

Jayrosc

Super Member
I grabbed this at the local recycle center. It looks like a special thing. Plugged it in and nothing happened but I'll devote some time to it of its worthwhile. Any thoughts? Input?
 

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I think you may have found something there, lol. Never heard of Rek O Kut? Well, I imagine you will have an education from a few members shortly. I'm not any sort if expert on those, generally speaking they are high quality idler drive tables from the 50's + 60's.
 
I grabbed this at the local recycle center. It looks like a special thing. Plugged it in and nothing happened but I'll devote some time to it of its worthwhile. Any thoughts? Input?

Looks like a K-33. Remove the piece marked Rek-O-Kut and see if the motor pulley spins.
 
Wow this could be a great rebuild/restore project. Go slowly and be patient for more people to chime in on this table.

Yes, if the platter/ bearing is undamaged and the motor works, these are excellent platforms for a great turntable. Rek-O-Kut had a reputation for very high quality machining. If it's a K-33H, the motor is a Papst hysteresis synchronous outside rotor, same as used by Empire.
 
I sold a Rek O Kut turntable for my old electrician friend (now deceased). It had a high end (for the 1950s) arm on it and was in prime condition. It brought big time money on ebay.

GeeDeeEmm
 
Got the belt back on and fired it up. It spins! Not a silent runner though. I can hear the motor whirring. Once I secure the tone arm I'll see if it makes sound.
 
Yup. Looks like a Frankentable...

Note the position of the arm pivot; below the surface of the platter...
Yeah, I looked at the underside and found no nut to hold the arm pivot in so it was just hanging there. I've done bit of reading and it looks as if it was not uncommon to buy a Rek O Kut table and purchase a separate tone arm. I may need to get a new tonearm for this one. The B@O thats on it looks very rare. Not even sure I could get a stylus for it.
 
Ok...when pugged in I get a major hum from one channel and the stylus skates across an LP like a hockey player. Barley audible sound comes from the other channel. I suspect a whole new tone arm might be the way to go here. A little research shows this B&O to be from the late 50's or early 60's but I have not yet found an exact match for it. The cart does look to be an SP 1 or 2. https://www.classic-audio.dk/sp/pickup.html
 
It's pretty much guaranteed that the stylus on that thing is hosed. I'd guess the arm isn't in great shape either, they tend not to like the kind of rough handling things that end up at the dump go through.
 
This is a real winner of a TT. The arm is only part of the equation. The cartridge can be replaced or just the stylus.
Motors on these old ROK's are as scarse as hens teeth and should be handles like a jewel. If it's an old "Pabst" it's worth over $100.
Belts are also available from several suppliers. The belt can run fast if it's the wrong one. I took me buying 3 belts before I found the right one that ran at the correct speed.
There are under neath connections that may need some refreshing. Loose wires are a problem and everything should be resoldered.
The bearing will need oil but watch for the ball inside. It will fall out as there is nothing to hold it in. If you turn the base upside down the ball will fall out and roll. It's a high quality ball bearing.
A loose connection anywhere along the wiring from the cartridge to the connectors will cause grief but once fixed it should run like a champ. Get arm setting information at "vinyl engine".
If you get rumble the motor mounts will have to be replaced as they dry out over the years. They are also available from several sources.
Good luck. My ROK I bought from an old radio station going out of business for $5 total. It is from the 50's and still going great. I use it every day.
None of this high fannootin "dc digital motor speed control golden framistat humdinger" for me. Just plain motor driven driven glory.
 
This is a real winner of a TT. The arm is only part of the equation. The cartridge can be replaced or just the stylus.
Motors on these old ROK's are as scarse as hens teeth and should be handles like a jewel. If it's an old "Pabst" it's worth over $100.
Belts are also available from several suppliers. The belt can run fast if it's the wrong one. I took me buying 3 belts before I found the right one that ran at the correct speed.
There are under neath connections that may need some refreshing. Loose wires are a problem and everything should be resoldered.
The bearing will need oil but watch for the ball inside. It will fall out as there is nothing to hold it in. If you turn the base upside down the ball will fall out and roll. It's a high quality ball bearing.
A loose connection anywhere along the wiring from the cartridge to the connectors will cause grief but once fixed it should run like a champ. Get arm setting information at "vinyl engine".
If you get rumble the motor mounts will have to be replaced as they dry out over the years. They are also available from several sources.
Good luck. My ROK I bought from an old radio station going out of business for $5 total. It is from the 50's and still going great. I use it every day.
None of this high fannootin "dc digital motor speed control golden framistat humdinger" for me. Just plain motor driven driven glory.

Everything you say is spot-on for these decks. The original belts had a very thin cross-section, that's why they run fast with new ones. One addition to your post, replace the motor run capacitor.

Speaking of bearings... what a bearing these tables have! 5/8" with an oil recirculation groove precisely cut into the shaft.
 
Got the belt back on and fired it up. It spins! Not a silent runner though. I can hear the motor whirring. Once I secure the tone arm I'll see if it makes sound.

Those Papst motors make a "whooshing" sound due to the rotor being external and spinning at 1800 RPM. If that's what you hear, nothing to worry about.

I'd forget about the arm, as well. I'd also forget about the base and build a new one.
 
Don't waste any time on that arm, you'll only be limited by the proprietary cartridges they take, motor unit is a score!
 
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