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Rek-O-Kut Turntables - ROK

Rega RB-250, Sumiki FT3/MMT/FT4, any number of 200-250 arms. Someone was selling a Linn arm of some sort for cheap in barter town.
 
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Here is a pic of my newtome ROK It will take a bit of work but I have a really nice piece of 2" smokey maroon marble flecked with gold and silver that I can carve into a new plinth. Is there someone out there that sells replacement parts and such???

NewImage.jpg
 
dnewma04 said:
Rega RB-250, Sumiki FT3/MMT/FT4, any number of 200-250 arms. Someone was selling a Linn arm of some sort for cheap in barter town.
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What do you think of the Linn Basik Dave? Is it a keeper or something I can use while I'm waiting for a "real" arm?
 
That is similar to the condition of my K-33H that I picked up and modded. I think you'll be impressed by the quality of the parts.
 
Guys found platter matts that are good and Cheep!

Guys
I posted on the turntable forum, so I hope this isn't considered a double post.
I found felt platter matt's made by ION model number Ion ISM02 DJ Slipmat.
They are 2-3 mm thick black felt, they do have a graphic printed on one side but the other side is blank. measure 12" across.
They are a prefect for the Rondine and look killer. I think very similar to a Linn matt.
I bought a package of 2 for $18, real nice quality and they don't break the bank.
Jump on the google and you can find them easily.
So for you guys that like a felt mat (me included) you cant find a better matt at a better price.

bob
 
Guys
Tonearms for the Rondine B12h any recommendations ? I have another stock Rondine and have been looking at arms that mount with about the same spindle to arm center as the original ROK arm 8 1/4 inches. I have a Rega 300 that I wanted to use, but I dont want to modify the table base or as little as possible.
I was looking at the Jelco arms. Any ideas, Im planning a base for this guy to add weight, and getting the idler tire rebuilt.
I already have a 99/100 mint Rondine in the original base with ROK arm.
But the new one will be a project table, looks great runs great just needs an arm and base.
bob
 
I just brought home the ROK K33H pictured above. To my surprise it does not have the big fat beefy motor the rim drives have. What is the opinion of the smaller motor of the K33H? It sure does spin nice.

Also, where can I get a new belt?
 
funkwrench said:
Your motor is the famous Pabst motor. It works off of the frequency of the voltage out of the wall, through a "faking cap," the big capacitor found under the deck. The 4uF cap is fairly easy to replace, and replacing it usually results in mo' accurate speed, in my experience. I have found that these turntables usually run a little fast until you replace that cap. But I do not know why that is.
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I have that motor and was thinking that if the speed is tied to the voltage that if I had 116 volts or 123 volts at my house, the speed would be off. Is that right?
 
MrIgotNomoney said:
Guys
Tonearms for the Rondine B12h any recommendations ? I have another stock Rondine and have been looking at arms that mount with about the same spindle to arm center as the original ROK arm 8 1/4 inches. I have a Rega 300 that I wanted to use, but I dont want to modify the table base or as little as possible.
I was looking at the Jelco arms. Any ideas, Im planning a base for this guy to add weight, and getting the idler tire rebuilt.
I already have a 99/100 mint Rondine in the original base with ROK arm.
But the new one will be a project table, looks great runs great just needs an arm and base.
bob
Click to expand...

I got a broken Infinity Black Widow for my project K33H. There are a number of companies that make carbon fiber tubing that I will use for the repair.
 
djnagle said:
I have that motor and was thinking that if the speed is tied to the voltage that if I had 116 volts or 123 volts at my house, the speed would be off. Is that right?
Click to expand...


No. Surprisingly, the voltage variation does not affect the speed very much. The main component in the hysteresis motor's speed is the frequency of the power coming out of the wall. The motor synchs to the 60 cycles per second, not to the voltage. There is some practical limit to this, I suppose. If there were only 10 volts coming out of the wall there might be all sorts of excess current stress but I am an uninformed speculator about this. Short story, in theory, the wall voltage can vary from 100 to 130 volts and there won't be much speed deviation if the frequency of the power stays at 60 cps.

Joe
 
Hi Joe, that is good to know. I like the motor because of the spinning mass it adds to the mix. The shaft is fairly corroded and I only hope I can remove the corrosion without deforming the shape of the shaft but I will start with 800 grit wet/dry and let the motor spin while I apply pressure.
 
djnagle said:
Hi Joe, that is good to know. I like the motor because of the spinning mass it adds to the mix. The shaft is fairly corroded and I only hope I can remove the corrosion without deforming the shape of the shaft but I will start with 800 grit wet/dry and let the motor spin while I apply pressure.
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Not quite getting this method of removing the corrosion. Can you post a picture? I assume that the shaft is inside the well? If so, how can you polish it with the 800 grit paper? I thought that the only way to polishh the bearing shaft was to have a machine shop turn it on a lathe or on a drill press rig.
 
he is turning on the motor and letting it spin in his hand while applying the paper with the other hand, I suspect.
 
Yep Dave, that is correct. This motor's shaft acts as the pulley as well so the part that is corroded is where the belt rides on the shaft. I think sticking with 800 grit or higher will allow me to take off the corrosion without reducing the diamiter of the shaft.
 
djnagle said:
Yep Dave, that is correct. This motor's shaft acts as the pulley as well so the part that is corroded is where the belt rides on the shaft. I think sticking with 800 grit or higher will allow me to take off the corrosion without reducing the diamiter of the shaft.
Click to expand...

Ok, Now I get it - you mean the motor shaft. For some reason, I thought you were talking about the platter bearing. Sorry. I have used a very fine little file to do the same thing. It all works well.
 
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