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Rek-O-Kut Turntables - ROK

Hi Joe,

Yep! That's a pretty close example of what my K34H look likes although mine is a little bit different (and the parts are in MUCH nicer condition than the one pictured). Joe, I will do my best to get some pixs to you soon. Also Joe, can you please explain the location of the MAIN BEARING ? I'm not sure what you mean as I am not a technical person. The K34H Turntable's Platter and it's attached (for lack of a better word) "STEM" is pretty darn Beefy on the K34H. Is this what you mean by Main Bearing ? Talk to you soon Joe.

Regards,
Tom aka SixCats!
 
Yes, the stem would be a good word for the main bearing. Here are a couple of photos. The smaller stem is the main bearing of the R34. The photo of the two platters shows the bearing stems of a B12H and a B12GH. They should look very much like your N34H bearing.

What does your motor look like?

Joe
 

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Hi Joe,

Oooh, thank you Joe for posting those pixs and answering my question. No doubt about it, the "stem/bearing" on my ROK K34H is indeed the big BEEFY Stem (thank God) as pictured on the B12H & B12GH pixs. The Motor on my K34H is a SQUARE looking West German made unit. When powered, one can see the entire motor spinning as it is not in a housing like the big ROK motors. The motor appears to be very quiet. I have read that the motor in my ROK does NOT need to be oiled. Thanks again Joe.

Regards,
Tom aka SixCats!
 
Your motor is the famous Pabst motor. It works off of the frequency of the voltage out of the wall, through a "faking cap," the big capacitor found under the deck. The 4uF cap is fairly easy to replace, and replacing it usually results in mo' accurate speed, in my experience. I have found that these turntables usually run a little fast until you replace that cap. But I do not know why that is.
 
Hi Joe,

Oooh, thank you Sir for that excellent information regarding the Cap!
I'll have to look into replacing the Cap for sure. Last night, I put some new ZOOM oil covering the Bearing in the ROK. The Platter appears to spin nice, smooth and quite EXCEPT when switching from 33 to 45 which results in a weird "grinding" noise. Lucky for me I don't plan on spinning any 45's.
Still, I sure wish I could figure out what the heck is making that noise.
I spun (by hand) the platter (withOUT Belt) as fast as I could and the Platter was very quiet. I suspect the problem must be something to do with the Belt which DOES have a weird (for lack of a better word) Hiccup/Jump in the same spot. Something is not right with this Belt. Joe, got a good source for the Cap and Belt ? Ummmm, perhaps I should also buy a new Ball Bearing while I'm at it eh ? Ooh, I suppose I should replace the rubber Gorments.
Thanks Joe.

Regards,
SixCats!
 
I have no experience with the rubber grommets but there is a distributor of the original LORD Co grommets here in Baltimore. I have been intending to visit them or at least secure a catalog. Based on my research, it looks like the grommets are a standard size. That means that better quality grommets might be used, such as silicon grommets. There is a guy selling some on ebay but I think the price is a little high. Just sayin.

Your grinding noise is likely caused by the belt dragging on the shifting mechanism. You should be able to fiddle with the lever to quiet it. If not, there are two adjustment screws on the deck near the motor. Go to vinyl engine, register and download the directions for adjustment of any of the belt drive R-O-K 34 decks.

Buy a belt, ten bucks, at turntablebasics dot com. Lots of other places, too, I am sure.

I used a heating and AC motor run cap to replace mine. I think it cost 4 bucks. You can probably use a high voltage rated plastic cap, too but I wouldn't worry about it. Sounds like you need a new belt most. Try getting that and move from there. _ Joe
 
I recently had to pass up (I think it was) a N33H on a homebrew plinth with an odd trick period pointy arm-&-cart set-up at a local thrift for $5. Needs loads of TLC but has a gorgeous massive spindle bearing, just no room at the inn here for it.
Anybody near 36265 PM me and I'll put you onto it if it's still there.
S.B.
 
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progress on the K33H i started a couple of days ago. Hope to have it functioning by the fest.

IMAGE_043.jpg
 
I've got some more work done on this. The bearing is installed, all of the laminates are glued together, the armboard is complete. Working on the motor pod which is coming along outside of the fact that i need to install a motor run cap somewhere in a pod that I wasn't thinking about installing a cap in when I started.

I don't think i'll be applying any kind of finish for the fest, bare MDF DIY theme. :)
 
Olson Turntable (ROK K33H) with Stromberg Carlson oil dampened unipivot tonearm.

Here's an oddball I got a few years ago. It's an Olson turntable... which is actually a Rek o kut K33H. It's on a home built, formica covered plinth, and has a Stromberg Carlson oil dampened unipivot tonearm. It was just too cool and unique to pass up :thmbsp:

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Pio1980 said:
I recently had to pass up (I think it was) a N33H on a homebrew plinth with an odd trick period pointy arm-&-cart set-up at a local thrift for $5. Needs loads of TLC but has a gorgeous massive spindle bearing, just no room at the inn here for it.
Anybody near 36265 PM me and I'll put you onto it if it's still there.
S.B.
Click to expand...

NLA
Item has been purchased and passed to an interested and capable new owner.
 
Here is my new Rondine Deluxe with the B12H motor. The tonearm is sitting on top to see how it will look. I need some plinth ideas now.
 

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N 34 h

Hi Fellas

its good to see a few ROK owners around
a newbee here, Ive got a ROK N34H in a homemade plinth...Grace arm and Goldring cartridge, its currently got pride of place, my LP12 is sitting n a cupboard.

cheers
 

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thank you ! it sounds good but after reading a number of posts I reckon its got a way to go to reach its potential...I need to fill the void in the plinth, sand bags ?...its a hollow frame, solid timber but still a frame "heavy as buggery "as we say ..
 
I've been meaning to ask in this thread. It seems that my L-37 motor is quite loud, is this normal or the sign of a deeper issue? My K-33H motor is very quiet, so i was a little surprised to hear the level of near "grinding" sounds coming from the L37.
 
Noise

dnewma04 said:
I've been meaning to ask in this thread. It seems that my L-37 motor is quite loud, is this normal or the sign of a deeper issue? My K-33H motor is very quiet, so i was a little surprised to hear the level of near "grinding" sounds coming from the L37.
Click to expand...

Does the motor make a lot of noise when you run it without driving the platter? If you take the platter off and start the motor, I think you can move the idler wheel off of the stem - capstan thing so that you can get a sense for the noise contributed exclusively bu the motor. Usually the rubber idler wheel simply need resurfacing. This can be done by many folks for 25 to 50 bucks.

I looked for your posts and photos on the DIY section but could not find them.

Good luck,

Joe
 
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