• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Rek-O-Kut Turntables - ROK

Joe
I was thinking about your noise issue, I have a couple questions.
With the motor just on and the table not in gear hows the noise ?
Then how about each speed, does the noise stay the same ?
I doubt that the kind of oil you use would be a problem, for my ROK's I have had good luck with turbine oil, I get mine from ACE hardware, its called the Zoom Spout
oiler costs about 3 bucks.

bob
 
R-O-K noise almost

With the unit out of gear - no idlers touching the mai shaft - the motor is dead silent. I have worried about the hard plastic or bakelite shaft surface being out-of-true bur it seems pretty smooth.

Yeah, every experiment I have done points to the idlers. It all sounds like bad idler tire-slap. Except the idler surface is new. I have almost sent them off to a different tire-re-capper just to see what would happen. By Ed Crocket is a pretty solid guy with a good rep. He rebuilt B12H wheel that he did for me was perfect.

The fact that my idler arms are worn and yours are not makes me want to go down that road for a while.

j
 
Thanks all for posting great information about these TT's. The question that gets left in my mind is "how do they compare to a comparitively equiped garrard 301/401"? Are these a via alternative for those of us the get sticker shock looking at the Garrard prices?

Thanks
Steve
 
They are probably a step behind an equally equipped TD-124/301/401. Probably better compared to an Empire 398, Fairchild 412, QRK, or Lenco. Not taking anything away from any of the other brands or ROK. A decked out version of any of these are still excellent.
 
Good question.

targeteye said:
Thanks all for posting great information about these TT's. The question that gets left in my mind is "how do they compare to a comparitively equiped garrard 301/401"? Are these a via alternative for those of us the get sticker shock looking at the Garrard prices?

Thanks
Steve
Click to expand...

But I do not know the answer. I will never be able to buy a 124 or a 301 or 401 and I have never had the pleasure of hearing one. So, I try to read and learn as much as I can and I experiment - slowly - with these Rek-o-kuts.

Some have made the point that the top of the line idler Rek-o-kuts were more expensive than the 124 or the 301 back in the day. This is true. I have the catalogs. But there was also substantial European currency advantage back in the late fifties and early sixties. Some high-end manufactured items from europe were simply less expensive. I suspect that the 124 and the 301 are mechanically better tables in some respects. But the Rek may have a superior main bearing. Maybe a superior motor. Some very smart people have taken the R-O-Ks, the Lencos, the Neats, etc... and have built giant-killer tables. But you know this.

Not everyone derives satisfaction from the journey. If you do, then I say go for it! Otherwise, pony up the correct change and buy one of the blue-chip tables. A pretty safe investment, based on the price trends. Almost as safe as real estate.

Good luck, Steve.

joe
 
Rek O Kut Table Comparison

dnewma04 said:
They are probably a step behind an equally equipped TD-124/301/401. Probably better compared to an Empire 398, Fairchild 412, QRK, or Lenco. Not taking anything away from any of the other brands or ROK. A decked out version of any of these are still excellent.
Click to expand...

Guys just my opinion,
I have never owned a Garrard 301 or 401, Empire,QRK or Lenco.
But I do have 2 Thorens TD124, a Fairchild 412-1, Fairchild 412-2, Rek O Kuts Rondine B12H with Ashland motor, 2 K33 one with the Papst and one with the standard motor, another ROK T12h

As far as the Rondine B12h running an Ashland motor, standard factory base in perfect running condition, is a very nice table, smooth and quiet, excellent PRAT, really a good all round table. It's no match for a TD124 though.

The K33 tables remind me of a REGA, once you get the belt tension setup, and in a heavy base, I think they out perform the REGA, clean clear nice solid low end, very good PRAT. I thought a little lean sounding.
Im not saying thin or weak, just a little less weight.

I thought the ROK T12H in a heavy base 30 lbs for mine has the most kick ass PRAT of them all really solid, dosent have the finess of my TD124 but is fun as hell to listen to. And enough torque to use it as a potters wheel.

The TD124 + SME 3009 early series, metal knife bearing. clean,clear, super quiet, has the PRAT, really the top dog no doubt about it.
I was running a REGA arm, but after switching to the SME within 2 seconds after the needle hit the groove there was no doubt in my mind the SME tore it up. stage and dynamics second to none, I thought it was an easy match for a Linn LP12/Ittok.
On 80 year old wood floors the Thorens does the job, no foot fall B.S. I have had with every 3 springer I have owned.

Fairchild 412-1 with the densite filled platter, is the closest to a TD124 I have heard.
I think this table belongs in the Garrard 301,401,Thorens TD 124 family,
Maybe not quite as well built, more industrial actually but close.
Compared to my TD124, it's close sound wise, the only thing I would like to try is a SME arm on his guy, I run my 412 with a REGA arm, I didnt like the combo on the TD124.
I have rebuilt my 412's, new motor mounts, they are always shot, clean and lube job. The Fairchild uses 2 drive belts, upper and lower.
Mine is mounted in a base that weighs in at about 35 lbs, dont bother with the factory base, it looks nice but I found that even though this guy is a very smooth runner, it came to life in the heavy base.

Id rank them
ROK B12h Rondine pretty darn good, you cant go wrong with one in good condition and a decent arm, nice table over all, I love mine.
ROK K33 belt drives in a nice heavy base, it's a hard call here not better than the Rondine B12H just different.
The ROK T12H, a little harder to tame the motor vibration (Eastern Air hysteresis synchronous motor) but this thing has the PRAT that is hard to beat.
Fairchild 412..... a sleeper
TD124 the top dog, has every feature of a modern table strobe,speed controll,easy to level, removable arm board and killer sound, it's like this tables design was way ahead of its time.


bob
 
reks-

Well you have convinced me to be more agressive about curing what ails my t43H (T12). I'll have at those idler arms this weekend and see if I can find a source for machining the studs or whatever they are.

BTW, there is one for sale on ebay right now. $600. Not mine. Won't sell at that price IMO. But the seller says he has been using it as a record cutting lathe - not as a potter's wheel but what's the dif? - and it sounds like the real deal. He had it up for sale before and talked about using surplus CDs as record cutting blanks. Who could make that up?

My k33 (w pabst motor and faking cap) test mule, under construction, attached. Cell phone photos. Sorry

out.
 

Attachments

  • k33h_1.jpg
    k33h_1.jpg
    65.4 KB · Views: 334
  • k33h_2.jpg
    k33h_2.jpg
    70.6 KB · Views: 257
Hello
On your K33, if your building a base, I built a solid base, I used a 4" hole saw to cut holes for the motor and a 1.75" hole saw for the main bearing.
The top layer I cut a 4" for the motor, a 1.75" for the bearing and a 4x3 for the arm board.
I think the center to center (motor center to main bearing center is 7 1/2 inches)
Then with each layer of plywood, I cut a 4" for the motor, a 1.75 for the bearing and another 1.75 for the arm clearance.

In the final 2 layers I eliminated the bearing hole, ( totally encloses the bearing well.)
And made 3x4 cutouts so I could mount the motor start cap,terminal block and wiring up inside the base.

What I was trying to accomplish was keep the mass as high as possible.

So if you look down on my base from the top you see a 4" hole for the motor to fit into, a 1.75" hole for the bearing, a 4x3 arm board hole centered on a 1.75 for the arm wiring and stub to fit down into.
bob
 
K33H update

I should hang mine up, too, I suppose. Not sure where any of this leads.

But my first tests, yesterday, of my K-33H are very positive. Again, I am sorry for cellphone photos but my real camera seems to sleep in my office, not in my home. Briefly, this is a 60s Rek-O-Kut belt-drive table with the hysterisis Pabst motor. The platter is pretty massive, with a big swingin' polished main bearing. I replaced the ball with a modern ceramic of slightly smaller diameter. New belt. In short, the table is very quiet and the speed seems spot-on, though I have not yet tested the speed with the strobe. I built this to test a smaller-footprint, two-tonearm arrangement. I listen to lots of old mono and, for me, this sounds best with a 16" R-O-K arm with GE cartridge. Modern records are played with the 12" Audio Technica ATE12, which allows for quick cartridge swaps.

Power supply is now outboard, with a new 4uF faking cap. I inadvertently mixed up 2 of the three wires and the thing ran backward at first. Because I used a tiny on-off switch from ratshack, I could not easily squeeze a cap onto the switch. So I left it out. BIG mistake. When I switch the thing off, my Cornwalls practically explode.

The Lowe's laminated pine circular "skeleton" plinth sits on 3 brass points. Today, this sits on a large square of 50s style oak & hardwood laminated flooring from an archetectural salvage depot. The flooring square sits on 4 sorbothane feet on the top of a cedar blanket chest. This is strictly an ad hoc arrangement which will probobly change tomorrow. Or next christmas.

So, next move is to try a high-mass plinth with a little more careful attention to the sub-base. I like to use recycled materials and I tend to avoid the beaten path, so, deciding what to use next may take a year or two of thinking and searching.

The pine was fauxed in an old mahogany finish by Baltimore artist, Nikki Smith. Perhaps I can post a photo that will do it justice.

Joe
 

Attachments

  • 0223091058.jpg
    0223091058.jpg
    75.1 KB · Views: 208
  • 0222091522a.jpg
    0222091522a.jpg
    82.3 KB · Views: 261
  • 0223091058a.jpg
    0223091058a.jpg
    65.6 KB · Views: 260
  • IMG_8516.jpg
    IMG_8516.jpg
    56 KB · Views: 240
  • IMG_8518.jpg
    IMG_8518.jpg
    68 KB · Views: 264
  • IMG_8529.jpg
    IMG_8529.jpg
    173.5 KB · Views: 236
Last edited:
Very cool ROK, there. Nice Job! The K-33H, being one of the least expensive models seems to be a favorite for modding. I know I have mine set aside for future project use.
 
K33h

dnewma04 said:
Very cool ROK, there. Nice Job! The K-33H, being one of the least expensive models seems to be a favorite for modding. I know I have mine set aside for future project use.
Click to expand...

Hey, man, fire that baby up! You might be very surprised! A new belt, a new ball-bearing, some synthetic motor oil... 20 bucks and you got a killer table.

Trying to decide if I like the bare-bones K33H or the B12H better. Like Bob, mrIgotnomoney, the B12H just seems more alive. More fun. But the K33H is dead silent and very musical.

Joe
 
funkwrench said:
Yes, the mids are more liquid in the fireplace. Also, it is the only place that isn't cluttered with other junk.
Click to expand...

Mine is located there because it's the only place in the family room that doesn't suffer the effects of a bouncy floor....

Interesting setup with your ROK. I've got a K33H mounted on a home built plywood box...... looks absolutely dull in comparison to yours.
 
Yes, my floors are terrible, too. I had hoped that by locating to the front of the fireplace it might cyt down on some of the bounce but no. A Wall shelf seems like the only answer. The old AR suspended table did pretty well in this environment.

I have another, rarely seen, ROK: a cheaply made bugger called an R34. It has a stamped steel deck, suspended chassis, comparatively tiny main bearing, pabst H motor, and belt drive. For some reason, this bearing allows for the platter to spin all day when you push it with your hand. Whatever. I am looking to break it all down and put the motor, arms, and platter on separate pods. We'll see how that goes.

Thanks for the comments.

Joe
 
Hi Joe,

I was wondering if your ROK R34 is similar to my (recently purchased) Belt drive ROK K34H ? No doubt my table is a "entry level" ROK, however, the Table appears to be in VERY good condition and I like the fact that it is pretty simple in design. I plan to add a vintage Tonearm and have a new Plinth built. I plan to set up this ROK a "dedicated" MONO Table.
Ooh, my K34H has the following motor :

Superior Hysteresis Motor
Model UC-503-1

HSM 14.50-4-675D
60H2 115V 4MF 50-60 cyl. .2 Amps
Made in West Germany

I don't know if this is considered a decent motor or not.

Regards,
SixCats! aka Tom
 
Hey Tom,
I do not know the K34H turntable. K stands for KIT, it is the DIY version of ROKs line. It requires you to find a suitable base, etc... 34 stands for 2 speeds, 33 and 45. H stands for hysteresis motor.

Can you post a photo of your K34H? I would really like to have a look!

The thing that distinguishes my cheap R34 is that it has a very small diameter main bearing. ROKs are famous for their big swingin' spindle bearings but this one has a puny little one, about 1/4 inch in diameter.

Let's see that K34H!

Joe
 
so, here is a photo stolen from an old ebay auction of an n34h. I assume your deck is the kit version of this.
 

Attachments

  • N34H.jpg
    N34H.jpg
    33.3 KB · Views: 385
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom