FreaK
is his own damn self
What arm is on this one?
Rek-O-Kut Turntables - ROK
- Thread starter jcmjrt
- Start date
adnick
Addicted Member
2325Veepster
New Member
Hi folks, looking for some help identifying this motor on a newly acquired L34jr. Not an Ashland, Pabst, or borg cube. I’ve seen variants of these glossy smaller can motors with a bump on the bottom and others like mine with the flat bottom. Also some seem to have ROK labels and outtie oil spouts, mine has innies/holes and the label has no names just model 11C 509. Is this a Bodine or something else? 
I have two like this, one with a red printed ROK label and I think the other has the black label like this. No idea who makes it, but its not a bad motor. I had to tear down the ROK branded one to fix a noise. The bottom bearing wasn't positioned quite right and the thrust plate had moved out of position. Runs nice and quiet now with the plate put back where it belongs.
2325Veepster
New Member
So it’s not a Bodine then? Does someone have a picture of a Bodine for reference?
Pretty sure that's a Bodine.
2325Veepster
New Member
Hi all,
Still working to get one functioning ROK here. I’m going to keep posting to this thread and not creat new ones but let me know if that’s off base (maybe off plinth is more appropriate in my case?).
I think the L34 is the most likely to get going, and then in time I’ll get a new plinth and sort out the noisy Ashland another year. If this has the bodine motor as suspected then I’m happy about that.
Right now I’m having Micropoise woes. I have two Micropoise arms. The shorter 220/320 versions I believe. There are a lot of little differences. Most notably one that supposedly came originally on an N33H has this much longer bearing set up, but shorter threaded collar (should be the first picture). It sticks way down from the housing/mount and the threaded tube.
The other one has a bearing set up that ends only just out of the housing, and has a longer threaded tube that extends way down ending with a plastic strain relief, this I think I’ve seen more commonly.
The other notable thing is the long bearing version came with a much larger omnipoise to screw on, and the standard looking one has a small one. You can sort of see that in the jumbled side by side picture.
My main issue is that I need a new Micropoise tracking force spring. I’ve scoured but haven’t found anyone referencing replacing that, so if someone has one, knows how to buy one or even identify what type of spring it is that would be great. The one I have is bent and out of wack. I also am not sure how to get it installed, there’s a tiny tiny I think hex nut holding the top adjuster on, that’s loose on one of mine and there’s a plastic flat head piece under that but it doesn’t seem to actually turn at all and I also can’t back the adjuster out the top because it’s got a stop collar at the bottom.
Still working to get one functioning ROK here. I’m going to keep posting to this thread and not creat new ones but let me know if that’s off base (maybe off plinth is more appropriate in my case?).
I think the L34 is the most likely to get going, and then in time I’ll get a new plinth and sort out the noisy Ashland another year. If this has the bodine motor as suspected then I’m happy about that.
Right now I’m having Micropoise woes. I have two Micropoise arms. The shorter 220/320 versions I believe. There are a lot of little differences. Most notably one that supposedly came originally on an N33H has this much longer bearing set up, but shorter threaded collar (should be the first picture). It sticks way down from the housing/mount and the threaded tube.
The other one has a bearing set up that ends only just out of the housing, and has a longer threaded tube that extends way down ending with a plastic strain relief, this I think I’ve seen more commonly.
The other notable thing is the long bearing version came with a much larger omnipoise to screw on, and the standard looking one has a small one. You can sort of see that in the jumbled side by side picture.
My main issue is that I need a new Micropoise tracking force spring. I’ve scoured but haven’t found anyone referencing replacing that, so if someone has one, knows how to buy one or even identify what type of spring it is that would be great. The one I have is bent and out of wack. I also am not sure how to get it installed, there’s a tiny tiny I think hex nut holding the top adjuster on, that’s loose on one of mine and there’s a plastic flat head piece under that but it doesn’t seem to actually turn at all and I also can’t back the adjuster out the top because it’s got a stop collar at the bottom.
2325Veepster
New Member
So out of curiosity I pulled a spring from a random clicker ball point pen. Looks pretty darn close to me. 
Now to figure out how to reinstall and test the VTF settings.
While I’m at it, does anything go in this spot where the spring sits on the collar? It looks like it’s made to have some stop or something but neither of mine do.
Now to figure out how to reinstall and test the VTF settings.
While I’m at it, does anything go in this spot where the spring sits on the collar? It looks like it’s made to have some stop or something but neither of mine do.
I just got a B12H and upgraded the idler wheel with one of the newly made polyurethane ones. Could anyone provide a video of their idler touching the capstan while the motor is running? My B12H is loud as hell and I'm wondering if it needs troubleshooting or if it is normal.
adnick
Addicted Member
With my L34 I found that putting a little oil on the center bearing of the idler makes a big difference, as does proper shimming of the idler. Too tight and it drags, too loose and it wants to wander up and down. Add or subtract fiber washers as needed. They also like a little oil on them. Just keep it off the rubber surface.
2325Veepster
New Member
Did you have any experience with the L34 and teflon shimming washers? I only have the stock fibers but have several more teflon washers that were suggested earlier for the B12
The ones I bought are some flavor of plastic, but I don't think its specifically teflon. Some of my fiber washers ripped when I removed them for cleaning so I used a plastic washer on either side and fine-tuned it with the fiber washers as needed. The fiber is a lot thinner than the plastic I bought.
thats a whole realm I know nothing of, but if the originals aren't cracked or petrified they are probably not a major cause of noise.
Is there any side to side play on the motor shaft? Just wondering if maybe the bearing is worn but it doesn't become apparent until there is some load on it.
Is there any side to side play on the motor shaft? Just wondering if maybe the bearing is worn but it doesn't become apparent until there is some load on it.
hurdy_gurdyman
Active Member
Here's my B-12 in the plinth I built back around 2008. It used to have a Grado wooden arm mounted on the chassis and an Infinity Black Widow on the back. Currently it is fitted with a Denon DA-50 arm on the back with a Grado G-1+ cart and 8MZ stylus.