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Relay Sockets

This one will drop in but is 24VDC coil instead of 48VDC:
G4W-2212P-US-TV5-HP-DC24
You will have to change the resistor that drives the relay's coil to achieve the correct 24VDC.
 
He Guys and maybe girls, thanks for all the suggestions. But I think i'm going to just use a prefboard and mount the relais I got on it.
Been trying to find a replacement for a while now but as you all din't find one or the ones that looked like the one are not avaiable anymore.
I've been looking for a solution like there is for capacitors https://adapt-a-cap.com/collections/all
Maybe I have to create is for adapt a relais.....
 
avionic said:
Well done..:thumbsup:
Click to expand...


Im trying to fix a possibly similar issue in my denon pma-770. Can anybody help me with the schematic and tell me if the headphone signal runs through the relay? Im not an expert with schematics but it doesn’t look like the signal to the headphone jack is routed through the relay but im still getting a channel dropout issue when listening through the headphone out as well as the speakers. Tapping on the relay causes changes but so does moving othe parts of the chassis. Strangely unplugging and re-plugging the din to rca adapter from my tt will also cause a change and bring the channel back. I will be checking for bad solder joints as well.
 
I tried to upload the schematic but it was to large.
As far as I can see the headphone signal runs through the relay.
 
Thanks everybody,

Ah, ok, i see now that the initial L, R output is switched through the relay. I was confusing it with the speaker A B switch because later denons im familar with use individual relays for the different speaker outs and headphones. i pulled the matsushita relay and cleaned the contacts with about 30 strips card stock soaked in electrolube eml200; they were black but now they are shiny and golden. I hope i didn’t deform the reeds in the process. I also touched up any bad solder joints I could find. Unfortunately this amp had been through a flood or something because the bottom of the chassis and other parts of the amp were covered in rust and corrosion. It was ugly. I could also see some hot spots on the bottom of the amplifier board especially under the 5.6k 2w resistors dropping off the power rails. Is it normal for these resistors to get this hot and cause discoloration on the board and solder joints over time or could it be indicative of excessive current draw? At this point, the bias is easy to set and stable. Lastly i was interested in wiring one of the inputs directly to the main volume control to bypass some of the circuitry i dont really use for a more pure sound. Are there any considerations i need to takes here or just wire and go or do i need some kind of diodes or networks to isolate it so signal doesn’t flow where it shouldn’t and affect other inputs?

regards,
Rylans
 
Amp is working better! No dropouts now. I think what caused the corrosion is actually the two main filter caps (Chemicon CEW 22,000 uf 63v) caps vented. There are now holes in the rubber bung at the bottom; it's not supposed to be like that i suppose. So, on to replacing those.
 
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