Amazon cancelled the order and I think it may be due to the fact that the price was ridiculously low. Hurst is still showing some for about $15 but I’m going to leave well enough alone. My Hayden motor is now very quiet and I don’t see the point.
I recently purchased AR XA with dead motor locally, very cheap (well, it was free...). One of two coils on the original Haydon motor was open so there are no chances to fix it. The Hurst 3001-0001 motor is almost $100 shipped now, it needs an adapter to mount it in and some people complain about electromagnetic interference and noise, so I decided to try that 24V Hurst motor first.After some trips down the Google rabbit hole, I’ve found the motor used on the U-Turn Orbit. Although expectations are low, why not see what a few bucks delivers?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCGXD9G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1





Just repair it as per the previous post, for the cost of a can of electrical lube cleaner.
By the way, those KCC Scientific frequency converters are excellent units if you want to run a tt sourced from OS running at a different mains frequency.
For XAs with the twin motor setup…what do you recommend? It’s slow starting nowJust repair it as per the previous post, for the cost of a can of electrical lube cleaner.
By the way, those KCC Scientific frequency converters are excellent units if you want to run a tt sourced from OS running at a different mains frequency.
I recently purchased AR XA with dead motor locally, very cheap (well, it was free...). One of two coils on the original Haydon motor was open so there are no chances to fix it. The Hurst 3001-0001 motor is almost $100 shipped now, it needs an adapter to mount it in and some people complain about electromagnetic interference and noise, so I decided to try that 24V Hurst motor first.
It is drop on replacement - no need to fabricate adapter or drill new holes in the plinth. Also it is close match to the original Haydon on power rating (2.0W Hurst vs 1.5W Haydon).
I am happy to say that this worked fine for me. The motor itself is indeed noisy, but this is only ambient noise; I do not hear much of it in the audio. I have nothing to compare with as the original motor was dead, but I would say it is acceptable.
The only issue (which was known and expected) is the shaft diameter. New motor shaft is 2mm; original Haydon is 1/8 inch (bit larger than 3mm). The easiest solution was to cut a small piece of 1/8 inch brass tube and fit it between the the shaft and the pulley. I had to increase inner diameter a bit to fit the tube on the shaft and then remove some material from outside to decrease outer diameter to match the pulley. Nothing hard, easy thing. Just used proper side drill but to drill out the ID, then put the tube on the shaft, powered on the motor and used sandpaper over rotating shaft to smooth it out until the pulley fit over the tube. I have not used any adhesive and there is no slippage or anything wrong.
To power the motor I used small 115VAC to 24VAC transformer and mounted it to the back wall of the frame inside the turntable. 4uF run capacitor went at the same wall.
If anyone is interested, here are the links on the parts I had to get; everything is from Amazon:
Hurst SP4023 24V 300 RPM motor (same as LYD35024D), $11.83
4uF 450V capacitors, set of 2, $6.99. Left one as spare or for the future project
24VAC transformer, $15.38
1/8 inch brass tube, $4.99. Enough for maybe 10-15 restorations.
Motor, transformer and capacitor mounted inside:
View attachment 3109045
Final result:
View attachment 3109051
View attachment 3109052
View attachment 3109053
I also installed RCA connectors and power connector on the back side (thanks John for idea and nice restoration tutorial):
View attachment 3109057
What power outlet did you use for the upgrade? ThanksI recently purchased AR XA with dead motor locally, very cheap (well, it was free...). One of two coils on the original Haydon motor was open so there are no chances to fix it. The Hurst 3001-0001 motor is almost $100 shipped now, it needs an adapter to mount it in and some people complain about electromagnetic interference and noise, so I decided to try that 24V Hurst motor first.
It is drop on replacement - no need to fabricate adapter or drill new holes in the plinth. Also it is close match to the original Haydon on power rating (2.0W Hurst vs 1.5W Haydon).
I am happy to say that this worked fine for me. The motor itself is indeed noisy, but this is only ambient noise; I do not hear much of it in the audio. I have nothing to compare with as the original motor was dead, but I would say it is acceptable.
The only issue (which was known and expected) is the shaft diameter. New motor shaft is 2mm; original Haydon is 1/8 inch (bit larger than 3mm). The easiest solution was to cut a small piece of 1/8 inch brass tube and fit it between the the shaft and the pulley. I had to increase inner diameter a bit to fit the tube on the shaft and then remove some material from outside to decrease outer diameter to match the pulley. Nothing hard, easy thing. Just used proper side drill but to drill out the ID, then put the tube on the shaft, powered on the motor and used sandpaper over rotating shaft to smooth it out until the pulley fit over the tube. I have not used any adhesive and there is no slippage or anything wrong.
To power the motor I used small 115VAC to 24VAC transformer and mounted it to the back wall of the frame inside the turntable. 4uF run capacitor went at the same wall.
If anyone is interested, here are the links on the parts I had to get; everything is from Amazon:
Hurst SP4023 24V 300 RPM motor (same as LYD35024D), $11.83
4uF 450V capacitors, set of 2, $6.99. Left one as spare or for the future project
24VAC transformer, $15.38
1/8 inch brass tube, $4.99. Enough for maybe 10-15 restorations.
Motor, transformer and capacitor mounted inside:
View attachment 3109045
Final result:
View attachment 3109051
View attachment 3109052
View attachment 3109053
I also installed RCA connectors and power connector on the back side (thanks John for idea and nice restoration tutorial):
View attachment 3109057
neoprene to cut a gasket, and used rubber washers top and bottom of the mounting screws to insolate the slight vibration people talk about with the Hurst. It works really well. The Hurst does have a very slight tick, but only audible with your ear to the table. One other thing I've noticed is just because the seller says it's an AR XA belt, don't trust it. I ordered one and it was really tight and caused some internal vibration. After putting the old belt back on it stopped. Buy from a trusted seller.Wait, what did you have to do to the motor shaft?I recently purchased AR XA with dead motor locally, very cheap (well, it was free...). One of two coils on the original Haydon motor was open so there are no chances to fix it. The Hurst 3001-0001 motor is almost $100 shipped now, it needs an adapter to mount it in and some people complain about electromagnetic interference and noise, so I decided to try that 24V Hurst motor first.
It is drop on replacement - no need to fabricate adapter or drill new holes in the plinth. Also it is close match to the original Haydon on power rating (2.0W Hurst vs 1.5W Haydon).
I am happy to say that this worked fine for me. The motor itself is indeed noisy, but this is only ambient noise; I do not hear much of it in the audio. I have nothing to compare with as the original motor was dead, but I would say it is acceptable.
The only issue (which was known and expected) is the shaft diameter. New motor shaft is 2mm; original Haydon is 1/8 inch (bit larger than 3mm). The easiest solution was to cut a small piece of 1/8 inch brass tube and fit it between the the shaft and the pulley. I had to increase inner diameter a bit to fit the tube on the shaft and then remove some material from outside to decrease outer diameter to match the pulley. Nothing hard, easy thing. Just used proper side drill but to drill out the ID, then put the tube on the shaft, powered on the motor and used sandpaper over rotating shaft to smooth it out until the pulley fit over the tube. I have not used any adhesive and there is no slippage or anything wrong.
To power the motor I used small 115VAC to 24VAC transformer and mounted it to the back wall of the frame inside the turntable. 4uF run capacitor went at the same wall.
If anyone is interested, here are the links on the parts I had to get; everything is from Amazon:
Hurst SP4023 24V 300 RPM motor (same as LYD35024D), $11.83
4uF 450V capacitors, set of 2, $6.99. Left one as spare or for the future project
24VAC transformer, $15.38
1/8 inch brass tube, $4.99. Enough for maybe 10-15 restorations.
Motor, transformer and capacitor mounted inside:
View attachment 3109045
Final result:
View attachment 3109051
View attachment 3109052
View attachment 3109053
I also installed RCA connectors and power connector on the back side (thanks John for idea and nice restoration tutorial):
View attachment 3109057