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bennattj

New Member
I have a pair of KLH Model 32s with a burnt-out voice coil on one of the woofers (thank you Lady Gaga and my inability to stay below what I knew was the maximum volume), so they're currently upstairs collecting dust (while I enjoy the Model 17s I picked up to replace them).

Recently, I called a local audio repair shop that claims to specialize in vintage gear to ask about fixing a minor rattle in one of my 17s. The tech gave me serious pause when he said, "We'll just replace the woofers and tweeters with modern high-efficiency drivers if needed."

That red flag stopped me from dropping off the 17s, but it got me thinking: why not let someone go ham on the busted Model 32s? Then came the bigger realization—I’d essentially be asking a general repair shop to custom-design a speaker from scratch, and I'm not confident they have the design expertise to pull that off.

So, if I decide to take on this resto-mod myself—replacing the woofers and tweeters and designing a custom passive crossover—how monumental of a task am I looking at? Or is cutting my losses, and trying to sell them for <$100 probably my best option?

I have a basic understanding of Thiele-Small parameters (i.e. I know they are important and that's about it), and I know crossover design is critical (especially since matching an 8-inch woofer means finding a tweeter that can cross over fairly low, around 1.5–2 kHz).

A few specific questions for the brain trust:

  1. Driver Selection: Is there a way to select a reliable woofer/tweeter combo based on specs, or is buying and testing multiple physical drivers the only way to get good results?
  2. Measurement Workflow: Do I measure the drivers mounted in the cabinet before designing and building the crossover network?
  3. Internal Damping: What should I do with the original fiberglass insulation? Should I retain the original fill density, replace it with modern polyfill/denim insulation, or adjust the fill amount based on the new woofer's parameters?
  4. Step-by-Step Process: What is the proper sequence to pull this off? What acoustic/enclosure measurements do I need before choosing drivers, what parameters matter most for this cabinet volume, and what measurements do I need to take to design the crossover network?
 
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Before you rush down to the store and buy a bunch of drivers and crossover parts, invest in a book like Vance Dickason's "Loudspeaker Design Cookbook" and see what you'd be getting into. There's also plenty of info and help at the Parts Express Tech Talk section of their website. Crossover design is the most critical aspect of loudspeaker design. And it's as much art as it is science. It's the basis for any good loudspeaker design.
 
Before you rush down to the store and buy a bunch of drivers and crossover parts, invest in a book like Vance Dickason's "Loudspeaker Design Cookbook" and see what you'd be getting into. There's also plenty of info and help at the Parts Express Tech Talk section of their website. Crossover design is the most critical aspect of loudspeaker design. And it's as much art as it is science. It's the basis for any good loudspeaker design.
Thanks for the recommendation. Methinks I know what Christmas present to ask for this year.
 
Download WinISD. It will let you figure out how a particular driver will work in a particular box.

However, if you're not interested in this as a hobby, and are looking for the best bang for the buck, it would be to just find someone selling a better pair of speakers locally.
 
Download WinISD. It will let you figure out how a particular driver will work in a particular box.

However, if you're not interested in this as a hobby, and are looking for the best bang for the buck, it would be to just find someone selling a better pair of speakers locally.
lol, point taken. I'm trying to make these KLH's sing again, but possibly better (louder is probably my main goal after quality). Honestly the woodwork might be the thing that does me in. But I'm definitely willing/wanting to learn.

Thanks for the recommendation.
 
These have real wood veneer?
The 32 has an 8" woofer so if you have EPI 100s with beat up cabs a transplant might make sense.
The 17 take a standard US 10" frame woofer there are options out there, I have empty 17s that
were given to me and Small Advents with very beat up vinyl cabs that I might transplant, didn't
check the fit yet.

There are some DIY 8" designs out there - these are dirt cheap and Johnny is an excellent designer:
$125 is for the pair of all parts - they're 4 ohms in the bass.

There are many potential problems with vintage speakers, soft parts being out of spec, spider sag, etc.
It's nice to have all new parts.
Let us know what you end up doing.
 
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These have real wood veneer?
The 32 has an 8" woofer so if you have EPI 100s with beat up cabs a transplant might make sense.
The 17 take a standard US 10" frame woofer there are options out there, I have empty 17s that
were given to me and Small Advents with very beat up vinyl cabs that I might transplant, didn't
check the fit yet.
I believe it is particle board with wood veneer, but I don't think I'll need to do anything with the veneer. The cabinets are in excellent shape. Hell the one speaker is in pretty good condition lol.

I'm thinking the woodwork would be 1) getting the woofer to fit properly (should be bare particle board there) and 2) installing the tweeter (that's probably the thing I'm more worried about)...but luckily I know a FIL that can do good woodwork so I'm thinking to enlist his help.
 
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