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Restoring Sears Console

Arriva2001

New Member
3D91662D-993C-4D4E-A126-F4342AD963B4.jpeg Hi
I recently purchased a Sears console stereo at a thrift store for $15. Initially I was planning just to restore the cabinet to use as a credenza...and to part out the electronics..but everything seems to work, which is amazing!

My question is...from the google searching I have done, the main concern with older stereos seems to be whether or not they have a “hot chassis,” and if so—they possibly need some upgrades. Is there any quick way to know what I’m looking for on mine to know if that’s the case? I can post photos as needed if that helps. I don’t expect this to be an amazing performing machine. Just don’t want to burn the house down or get shocked! Thanks in advance. I’m brand new here if it doesn’t show!
 
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It doesn’t appear to be a hot chassis due to the T401 power transformer. Can you provide us pics of the actual amp/tuner combo?
 
It doesn’t appear to be a hot chassis due to the T401 power transformer. Can you provide us pics of the actual amp/tuner combo?

Thank you for looking! Here are a couple of photos. Let me know if I’m taking them from the right angle
 

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Thank you. I was just overthinking—and reading too many threads about possibly getting electrocuted.

I’m happy to hear this one is not one of those!

One more quick question, as this is very new to me. Is there any danger of electrical shock when a solid state tuner/amp is unplugged? I read something about capacitor holding charge after it’s unplugged. I just want to disassemble things to work on the cabinet and don’t want to get a shock!

I just think these old consoles look so cool!
 
You should be fine as long as it isn’t plugged into a wall receptacle. I used a fine looking MCM console in my office back in my working days. I bypassed the old internal amp/tuner and hooked up a small Pioneer receiver directly to the speakers. Sounded fine and got lots of compliments. There are many possibilities for yours including Bluetooth adaptor,small inexpensive class D amp, etc.
 
Grundig made a lot of OEM chassis for Sears consoles. I think I recognize this as one of them. It uses germanium power outputs and was capable of about 15-20 watts per channel.
 
May we see a picture of the unit as a whole? We had a Sears console when I was a teen back in the sixties. I believe it was a 1965 model, early American style. I "exercised" it pretty good. :D

Doug
 
May we see a picture of the unit as a whole? We had a Sears console when I was a teen back in the sixties. I believe it was a 1965 model, early American style. I "exercised" it pretty good. :D

Doug
Here’s a picture of the whole unit. It’s kind of in rough shape, so I’m trying to determine the best way to restore the cabinet. It’s not real wood (fiberboard with vinyl/plastic veneer) so I’m considering painting it. Haven’t fully decided.
 

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I might be crazy...but I’ve been seeing a lot of “statement furniture” pieces in magazines that are hunter green with gold accents. I think it might look really nice redone in that color with matching speaker cloth. Feel free to weigh in if you think that’s nuts! I haven’t bought the paint yet...just taking things apart for a good clean.
 

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Grundig made a lot of OEM chassis for Sears consoles. I think I recognize this as one of them. It uses germanium power outputs and was capable of about 15-20 watts per channel.

Grundig didn't make chassis for USA Sears consoles. Warwick Electronics did that and built Sears electronics until around 1975. 15-20 WPC too optimistic, 12 WPC at most (and that's if it was a Medalist model)
 
Grundig didn't make chassis for USA Sears consoles. Warwick Electronics did that and built Sears electronics until around 1975. 15-20 WPC too optimistic, 12 WPC at most (and that's if it was a Medalist model)
Ok then it wasn't Sears, but Grundig did make the guts of a lot consoles like this (Wetinghouse?). I purchased a Grundig chassis from John J. Meshna in MA that I later saw in a console similar to this. It had a very similar knob and dial placement.
 
Grundig made Grundig equipment. They didn't make private label or OEM. Westinghouse built their own consoles and chassis. Just because it looks similar, doesn't mean it's the same. And it would cost too much for Westinghouse to do this in that era.
 
well I learned a lot about BSR Turntables today. The turntable I had assumed was just stuck because of old dried up grease. But deep down, I was just assuming it would work because they usually do.

It was definitely stuck..but was kind of beyond anything I've seen before with other turntables. I took it apart and cleaned out all of the old grease in the record changer and the bearing at the base of the turntable. I also had to remove the drive spindle and motor spool (I think that's what you would call it) from the actual motor also and clean and oil everything really well. The motor was stuck, like completely stuck. I got it all cleaned up and lubed up and ran the turntable for a good 30 mins today and cycled through the record change numerous times and it seems to work ok. (though I still need to get a new stylus).

i was pretty pleased with the fact I got it moving from its prior state of being completely stuck.

The part that I kind of had to do some internet searches about was the little rubber drive wheel that the motor connects to in order to turn the record turntable itself. That had been sitting for years, apparently, and there was a large divet in the side of the rubber where it sat against the motor spindle. So once I got the motor to spin freely, when the turntable was spinning, there was an audible 'thunk' everytime the rubber wheel made a revolution.

What i ended up doing was putting the rubber wheel into a drill chuck and using some fine sandpaper and spinning that rubber wheel so that the sandpaper ground down the wheel slightly...just enough to grind down the divet. I cleaned it up and put it all together again, and it's running super smoothly now.

I think now the last step is to get a stylus to ensure that the audio and speed are right! I'm kind of worried that if I removed too much rubber on the wheel, it could impact the 33 1/3 RPM speed. Hoping that's not the case, or I might need to order some new parts!
 
BTW...I'm still curious if anyone has thoughts on painting this 'lil guy hunter green and adding gold accent knobs to the front. I'm a stickler for prepwork and high quality paintwork--so it won't be a slapdash paint job. I'll take my time.

I think it might look cool (it looks great in my head), but wondering if hunter green is just a bad idea. Maybe white or navy blue might be a more conservative alternative? Or maybe there is a a clear coating that will bring back the faux wood surface to like new--(is there such a thing?)?

I'm leaning toward painting, honestly, because there is just so much faded plastic and fake veneer on this unit. But I don't want to create something that only a mother could love, either!

Thoughts?
 
The diameter of the idler wheel isn't critical as to speed. When you sand it down, you make it smaller relative to the motor pulley but you also make it smaller relative to the platter drive rim.

May we see a picture of the turntable? It wouldn't be a BSR in a SEARS console unless somebody replaced the original.

Doug
 
Grundig made Grundig equipment. They didn't make private label or OEM. Westinghouse built their own consoles and chassis. Just because it looks similar, doesn't mean it's the same. And it would cost too much for Westinghouse to do this in that era.
I can only go by how the unit was advertised. Google John J Meshna and you will see that he was famous for having warehouses full of surplus junk. A lot of it was old military equipment. My brother and I used to travel to Lynn MA and wander through the buildings picking up one-offs that were not in sufficient quantity to be in his catalog. I still have a few bags of Mil-spec capacitors that were purchased 50 years ago from there that are metal cased with glass seals that are probably still good today.
 
The diameter of the idler wheel isn't critical as to speed. When you sand it down, you make it smaller relative to the motor pulley but you also make it smaller relative to the platter drive rim.

May we see a picture of the turntable? It wouldn't be a BSR in a SEARS console unless somebody replaced the original.

Doug
This is the turntable in the cabinet. I have no idea if it’s original to Sears, but it was certainly sitting in there for a long while to be as froze up as it was!
 

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