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Restoring Sears Console

Definately lighter. I have a FISHER EXECUTIVE (1963), that weighs in at over 250# all up(800c, Garrard Type A MKII, and AMPEX 1250 R2R) that if done in plastic on the front would probably weigh about 50# less. No particle board in it. All 5/8" or 3/4" Plywood with veneer,no plastic. My old 1969 Custom Electra had plastic fronts and weighed about 120# all up. I could pick up one end without straining. With the Executive I need a hand truck just to get it on furniture dollies to move it in the house!

On an related note to your post, what does a 1965-1966 Custom Electra VIII weigh with hybrid chassis? I get the impression this would weigh at least 180-190#, definitely two strong man lift.
 
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I looked up your stylus, you would need a Pfanstiehl 854. They don't mention the socket colors in the stylus section, so I looked at the cartridge section
to find the orange socket model and the replacement number.

The different socket colors were for different output levels and stylus compliance, the orange being a fairly low output ceramic with a three gram tracking force.
 
I looked up your stylus, you would need a Pfanstiehl 854. They don't mention the socket colors in the stylus section, so I looked at the cartridge section
to find the orange socket model and the replacement number.

The different socket colors were for different output levels and stylus compliance, the orange being a fairly low output ceramic with a three gram tracking force.

Thank you for the additional information. I have to admit, I went to their site and struggled to find that needle you mentioned in the prior post, (I figured it was my own user error :) so I deferred it to look again another day with a fresh perspective. Thanks for researching that further and finding the exact part number! That's awesome. I'll get it ordered!
 
Well I didn’t make any progress today other than I got the new hardware in the mail. And they are some pretty hefty solid brass knobs. With a gold matte finish. I think it will complement the green matte paint well.

I tested them out—length of the bolt is good and I think I’m gonna like them.

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Well I made a little more progress. I had another day with nice weather, (and I’m doing most of this in my uninsulated garage...so I need it!).

I was able to get on the second coat of primer to smooth things out, and then sanded and rolled on a very light coat of the green. Hopefully tomorrow is just as nice and I can roll on a second coat.

I’m really waiting for temps in the 70s to do the front panels since they will be spray painted. I’ve had bad experience spray painting when it is too cool or too damp. So I’d rather wait and have it turn out well!


Here are a couple of pics.

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BD0296C7-A9C1-4195-AB19-F7F061483662.jpeg

I did order the new stylus and it should be here any day now.

FYI, I did have plastic over the tuner during the work, but took it off after I painted. I’ve got it elevated with some small wood blocks so I can paint around it.
 
I was able to put on a second coat today on the body (weather still too cool for spraying the front panels.)

Judging by how it’s going on, I may need four, rather than three coats. I’m using very light coats with a foam roller (and scotchbrite pad between coats) to make sure there aren’t any drips or runs.

I’m getting excited about how it’s looking. Starting to get the rich deep green appearance!

new stylus arrived today too!

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Final coat of “Hunt club green,” and new speaker grille cloth added. Now I just need to:

-spray front panels and add brass hardware,
-apply topcoat of polyurethane on the top side,
-reassemble it
-let the music play!

99F2BC5F-4B8F-40EF-9BE0-AA5082EBD928.jpeg 1FC801CE-10E0-4154-A8AE-6047D606F4F5.jpeg
 
A little more progress today. FINALLY some weather nice enough for me to spray paint.

here’s a couple of before pictures
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and here’s the after

5878DDE0-FA67-469C-893E-A212A817878D.jpeg 35BAEB2B-B0A1-4DF7-85D9-4A4034766F3A.jpeg

I also found this neat little silvertone emblem and am thinking about where to maybe incorporate into the design since the gold tone will match the knobs.
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That's actually a great color. It looks kind of antique-like. I guess the most obvious place for the emblem is down on the apron right below the center of the "doors", depending on its size. You wouldn't want it to be too prominent. Or maybe, over to one side.

Doug
 
Got the interior pieces all reassembled. Getting close to the finished product!

I needed some longer hardware for the new door pulls after all. Once I get those on and the back panel back on...and a small screw for the spring door lifter/assist...it will be ready to roll! Once I have it working I’ll post some final photos and a video if I can figure out how to do that!

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Oh also...you can see I affixed the emblem on the inside of the door. I actually have a smaller one that I’m putting on the lower right of the front as well. Hopefully it doesn’t stand out too much, but I thought it would add a little flash since that’s the brand name.
 
Hi, I need a little help troubleshooting. I got the turntable all installed and installed the new stylus. When I play a record, the sound is not making its way to the speakers. I can hear the needle playing the record if I listen closely. But nothing from the speakers.

when I change the source to AM/FM or 8 track—-the sound works fine. Is there any common failure point between the needle itself and the tuner/amp I should be looking for?
 
An old ceramic cartridge almost always fails with age. The way they work is, the cantilever of the stylus rests in the groove of the yoke and the stylus vibrates with the music information in the groove which is imparted to the yoke via the cantilever. The two branches of the yoke surround the ends of the two ceramic elements and so, the ceramic elements also vibrate with the music information. The contacts which lead to the outside of the cartridge and into which the wires are connected via a plug on the back end of the cartridge, where the orange collar is, make contact with the other ends of the ceramic elements via mere flat contact under pressure from elastic elements.

Oxidation forms between the flat contacts and the ceramic elements and that kills conduction and thus, signal to the amp.

By coincidence, I am working on an old Realistic portable stereo that was my late ex-wife's when we first met in 1970 and it has the same basic Tetrad cartridge in it with the same problem. I have gotten it to work intermittantly by working the yoke and elements around but it's not perfect and I am about to try to shoot Deoxit into it to see if it will clean up the oxidation. Nothing to lose, right? If it doesn't work, I'll buy a new cartridge from Gary at his Voice of Music site.

Anyway, there could be other causes too but that's, by far, the most likely.

Doug
 
E8651700-9C2A-4896-9CF5-602651CF213C.jpeg 5ECE3B19-3FEC-4C18-A991-EB19CFFB736D.jpeg Thank you, do you by chance know the part number for a cartridge like that?

this is the cartridge. Just looking at it where the stylus goes...it appears one side is missing the reddish material that cradles the stylus.
 
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