Rs iiib capacitor replacement/upgrades

[0utofControl]

Just picked up a set of infinity rs iiib boxes this week and outfitted them with some reconditioned RS iiia drivers I had and as my first set of infinity's the emit tweeters certainly live up to the hype and the poly cell midranges were a nice surprise.

I'd like to upgrade the capacitors and would love to hear from people with more experience about which ones would be a good fit for these. My budget is around $200-250. Also would it be worth it to replace the inductors with larger gauge janzen or erse inductors? Would it be beneficial to replace or remove the Lpads? Any help would be appreciated!

Happy listening

 

[jefferylhenr]

I would just clean your pads well. Some folks measure once they get them set and cut in the same value high quality resistor, but don’t know you would hear the difference and you lose your adjustments.

As for your inductors, unless you have money to burn… don’t replace.

I believe you already have a good quality poly on your tweeters and I have measured a number of them over the years and they were all matched and spot on in value. So again no need to replace. If you do, I like the Jantzen superior Z.

The schematic appears to be misprinted on your mids. The cap from + to - can be a Dayton or go big with a Mundorf electrolytic and bypass with a .01 uf Dayton polypropylene. For the insignal, you can go with a jantzen crosscap. Or if you are on a budget you can parallel a Dayton or Mundorf electrolytic @ 75% of the total uf value with the remaining 25% being a jantzen crosscap or Dayton polypropylene.

For the 600uf insignal on the woofers you can parallel best quality Dayton electrolytic’s that add up to 600 (6x100 or 4x150 and bypass with a 1 uf Dayton polypropylene.

Otherwise I would spend more time and money on proper bracing, batting and re-stuffing. Btw, the schematics aren’t always correct and go with the values as built assuming someone hasn’t modded them.
http://www.infinity-classics.de/technik/manuals/RS_IIIA_technical_sheet.pdf

 

[Maxamillion]

On my RSIIbs I use the standard Mundorf Supreme caps. They sound very good with the EMIT tweeters and EMIM mids and are not crazy expensive.

 

[automojo]

Yep
My A version going with Superior Z’s
Mills resistor
El’s for the bass caps
Cross Capp for the bass by pass
I agree leave the inductor s alone
Z’s or the mention Supremes would be excellent choices.
Be aware especially the Sumpremes are huge
Z’s too
Still there should be plenty of room with some thought
That is if you’re looking to improve the song if you want to keep it as is I will just leave the stock film caps maybe replace the bass caps and el caps with the same.
Bracing is a option
However to me the bass is very clean in uncolored
I’m sure there are some improvements that could be made however

Myself
I’m going to label all the wires and cut them and attach quick disconnects
That way it’ll be a lot easier to work on a crossover instead of it on the back of the speaker like some guys here have

 

[automojo]

FIY
THE MDLS ARE JATZEN
Partsconnextion gives you a 20% discount if you just email them
PE and Madisound i’ll have pretty good prices plus Parts Express has coupons
Partsconnexion has more of the sizes the either of the 2

 

[automojo]

I would just clean your pads well. Some folks measure once they get them set and cut in the same value high quality resistor, but don’t know you would hear the difference and you lose your adjustments.

As for your inductors, unless you have money to burn… don’t replace.

I believe you already have a good quality poly on your tweeters and I have measured a number of them over the years and they were all matched and spot on in value. So again no need to replace. If you do, I like the Jantzen superior Z.

The schematic appears to be misprinted on your mids. The cap from + to - can be a Dayton or go big with a Mundorf electrolytic and bypass with a .01 uf Dayton polypropylene. For the insignal, you can go with a jantzen crosscap. Or if you are on a budget you can parallel a Dayton or Mundorf electrolytic @ 75% of the total uf value with the remaining 25% being a jantzen crosscap or Dayton polypropylene.

For the 600uf insignal on the woofers you can parallel best quality Dayton electrolytic’s that add up to 600 (6x100 or 4x150 and bypass with a 1 uf Dayton polypropylene.

Otherwise I would spend more time and money on proper bracing, batting and re-stuffing. Btw, the schematics aren’t always correct and go with the values as built assuming someone hasn’t modded them.
http://www.infinity-classics.de/technik/manuals/RS_IIIA_technical_sheet.pdf

I agree on differences
The B’s are a way different schematic
With different crossover pointsInfinity RSiiia crossover | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums

 

[0utofControl]

I would just clean your pads well. Some folks measure once they get them set and cut in the same value high quality resistor, but don’t know you would hear the difference and you lose your adjustments.

As for your inductors, unless you have money to burn… don’t replace.

I believe you already have a good quality poly on your tweeters and I have measured a number of them over the years and they were all matched and spot on in value. So again no need to replace. If you do, I like the Jantzen superior Z.

The schematic appears to be misprinted on your mids. The cap from + to - can be a Dayton or go big with a Mundorf electrolytic and bypass with a .01 uf Dayton polypropylene. For the insignal, you can go with a jantzen crosscap. Or if you are on a budget you can parallel a Dayton or Mundorf electrolytic @ 75% of the total uf value with the remaining 25% being a jantzen crosscap or Dayton polypropylene.

For the 600uf insignal on the woofers you can parallel best quality Dayton electrolytic’s that add up to 600 (6x100 or 4x150 and bypass with a 1 uf Dayton polypropylene.

Otherwise I would spend more time and money on proper bracing, batting and re-stuffing. Btw, the schematics aren’t always correct and go with the values as built assuming someone hasn’t modded them.
http://www.infinity-classics.de/technik/manuals/RS_IIIA_technical_sheet.pdf

Thanks, would there be any benifit running say, janzen crosscaps or Z's over a Dayton poly in place of the mundorf bypassed with a poly Dayton? Especially in the 5uf to ground in the mids or the insignal? Ideally I'd like to run something of decent quality and possibly bypass with super Z's

My plan today is to see if an issue I have with mid balance is in the pads or if I have an issue with one of the mids. I'm fairly certain it is the pads from the difference in moving one back and forth many times already. I'll have to order deoxit fader lube to fully clean them unless there is a store bought equivalent.

I appreciate your time and thought out help. Thank you much!

 

[0utofControl]

Yep
My A version going with Superior Z’s
Mills resistor
El’s for the bass caps
Cross Capp for the bass by pass
I agree leave the inductor s alone
Z’s or the mention Supremes would be excellent choices.
Be aware especially the Sumpremes are huge
Z’s too
Still there should be plenty of room with some thought
That is if you’re looking to improve the song if you want to keep it as is I will just leave the stock film caps maybe replace the bass caps and el caps with the same.
Bracing is a option
However to me the bass is very clean in uncolored
I’m sure there are some improvements that could be made however
View attachment 2375030
Myself
I’m going to label all the wires and cut them and attach quick disconnects
That way it’ll be a lot easier to work on a crossover instead of it on the back of the speaker like some guys here have

I was looking at superiors last night and budget wise I could bypass with them? Lol

 

[automojo]

I was looking at superiors last night and budget wise I could bypass with them? Lol

HA!
Yep the aren't cheap-the Supremes either.
The Z's are more nuetral-but far form bland boring-very full sounding.
The Mundorf Sumpreme Mcaps-are basically two caps in series in one-a more euphoric sound-not as accurate per say-but very good!
What are the values of the mid/Emit caps?
IMHO-the Z's are the 'safest' choice-no one I know of doesn't like them-hard to complain about anything with them.
Despite their website-they take a while to fully break-in.

 

[0utofControl]

As for the difference s between the A's and B's aren't the drivers mostly interchangeable with the different schematics of both? I'm assuming mine are from the A's as the have the pink/orange decals on the mids and emits. The woofers I picked up together, seperate from the mids and emits so they could be either A's or B's

 

[0utofControl]

HA!
Yep the aren't cheap-the Supremes either.
The Z's are more nuetral-but far form bland boring-very full sounding.
The Mundorf Sumpreme Mcaps-are basically two caps in series in one-a more euphoric sound-not as accurate per say-but very good!
What are the values of the mid/Emit caps?
IMHO-the Z's are the 'safest' choice-no one I know of doesn't like them-hard to complain about anything with them.
Despite their website-they take a while to fully break-in.

Would you say then that the mundorf M's would help the songs that aren't recorded as well? My end goal is an overall good sounding speaker across several genres. Not something that will only sound good on specific tracks

 

[0utofControl]

I appreciate your guys time and experience here. It's my first day off in far too long so I have several things to tackle today but tonight I'll tear these back apart to try and clean the pads a bit better and can get you the values of the mid emit caps.


Thank you much!

 

[jefferylhenr]

I use soniccraft for the Mundorf’s and parts-express for Jantzen’s. The Jantzen 0.47 uf are $13.98 and the 1 uf $18.29. The Jantzen cross caps are $1.96 and $2.50. Anything that shunts to ground can be a standard grade poly bypassing a good quality electrolytic. Where you will see the benefits of better quality polys, metal or pio is in signal.

Soniccraft has a miflex pio that looks worth trying for bypass. Ie try bypassing your installed old school yellow infinity tweeter polys and maybe even your insignal mid caps. http://www.soniccraft.com/product_i...uf-600vdc-copper-foil-polypaper-in-oil-p-5293

 

[automojo]

I use soniccraft for the Mundorf’s and parts-express for Jantzen’s. The Jantzen 0.47 uf are $13.98 and the 1 uf $18.29. The Jantzen cross caps are $1.96 and $2.50. Anything that shunts to ground can be a standard grade poly bypassing a good quality electrolytic. Where you will see the benefits of better quality polys, metal or pio is in signal.

Soniccraft has a miflex pio that looks worth trying for bypass. Ie try bypassing your installed old school yellow infinity tweeter polys and maybe even your insignal mid caps. http://www.soniccraft.com/product_i...uf-600vdc-copper-foil-polypaper-in-oil-p-5293

Or instead of simply bypassing Replace with the full value.
More definitive sonic benefits in my experience

 

[automojo]

On of my RSiiia's crossovers
Also-if you look at the ring terminals on the inputs-you can probably same some hassle-by maybe leaving the terminal with the wires going to the speakers alone looks like a mess to deal with.
Either adding one more for your new caps-or just dealing with/or replace the other terminal.
The other side-I will probably just add one for the new cap.
Putting in new inputs as well
Regardless even if keeping the inputs-one can remove them to sperate and work on each if needed.

 

[jefferylhenr]

H

View attachment 2375149
On of my RSiiia's crossovers

Have you seen the size and cost of a 600 uf poly cap? They are bigger than beer cans. And there is no reason to go with a full poly as a shunt to ground except for potentially longevity. I bypassed all my caps with .01uf pio’s on my last build and it sounds beyond fantastic.

 

[goodolpg]

H

Have you seen the size and cost of a 600 uf poly cap? They are bigger than beer cans. And there is no reason to go with a full poly as a shunt to ground except for potentially longevity. I bypassed all my caps with .01uf pio’s on my last build and it sounds beyond fantastic.

I used Dayton film .01's as bypass caps on my RS II's. Cost hardly nothing. Did it help, did it hurt, no idea.
Some people have the patience to do one crossover at a time and then do some listening (for more than 5 minutes) and then decide what effect the new caps had.
I don't have that patience.

 

[automojo]

Or instead of simply bypassing Replace with the full value.

H

Have you seen the size and cost of a 600 uf poly cap? They are bigger than beer cans. And there is no reason to go with a full poly as a shunt to ground except for potentially longevity. I bypassed all my caps with .01uf pio’s on my last build and it sounds beyond fantastic.

Jeff
Look at my pictures of the capacitors I’m using
EL for the bass caps- NOT poly/ film
One is 500uf/the other 100uf.
The 20uf Cross cap lowest in the pic is the stock bypass for the woofers

Use excellent caps for mid tweet
Like Mundorf Supreme
Jantzen Z or whatever
No need to bypass those
Bypassing is a hit/miss
If your looking to REALLY improve just use a good cap.
Try to save a few $$-fine-but as some have point out-in can create a sibilance.
Myself-seems every time I was going to-just went with a better cap-if needed waited and saved the needed amount of $

No 600uf poly caps here!!
IMHO-go with the least amount of caps as possible.
Mundorf makes a 600uf EL-it's only 67 volts or so-I'm sure it would be fine.
Or the Jatzen EL-4 total does the trick.

 

[0utofControl]

So the mids are balanced. I took a picture of the crossovers and am curious what the little black boxes labeled 1a-50 are as well as the values of the tiny black resistors coming off of the negative post of the tweeter Lpad

 

[seifreit]

So the mids are balanced. I took a picture of the crossovers and am curious what the little black boxes labeled 1a-50 are as well as the values of the tiny black resistors coming off of the negative post of the tweeter LpadView attachment 2375676

The culver 1a-50 devices are self resetting circuit breakers to protect the emit and polydome. The two black "resistors" are zener diodes, also for protecting the emit.