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S-Ruddy's Executive IV Restoration Thread

sruddy

sruddy

AK Subscriber
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Yay, I'm finally getting to the Executive! Unless someone disagrees I will be using the Executive III and IV Service Manual. I wish the schematics listed the values and voltages. If anyone has schematics that do please let me know. Here are shots of the serial numbers.

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I have already recapped the speakers and they sound fine. I need to replace the cloth on the back and am wondering if there is anything specific I should use or just get any black material from a fabric shop. I have never seen a cloth backed speaker. I wonder what the reason was?

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Here is a shot of the front. I think I can get most of the black streak on then TT drawer rubbed out. The top has splitting of the coating but I'm hoping I can sand and buff what's left without having to refinish it.

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I have the X-1000 pulled so far and here is a shot. I think this will clean up really nice as the chassis has no corrosion through the plating or whatever they do to it. I hate when there is black corrosion spots that don't come out and some have some type of rinse streaks. This one is free from both.

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Here is the purchase story. I'm calling this an Executive IV as the printed model # W-10003-A has the base as 1000-3 which according the www.fisherconsoles.com is a Fisher Executive IV Console (1960)
(Model 1000-3). Let me know if I am wrong about this as they also list the early model V Executive V (Model ? - Early 1961) 4000-R, X-1000; which uses the same chassies but they don't list the model number for confirmation.

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The "A" could be the delineator for the Exec- V. There was a Custom Electra on the forum a couple weeks ago, a 1968 model that had what looked like a 1967 Metropolitan cabinet, which is slightly different from the 1966 C.E. cabinet. We all thought it was a Metro from the cab, but Red noted that the model # had a "B" behind it which made it a 2nd year Custom electra. So the "A" could mean it's a Exec. V., as the Exec V was a mid year change.

Steve; As you pull the individual chassis' out, write down the information on the transformers (all lines), along with the Model and serial #'s of the chassis'. If you find any date codes on caps, etc. note those too. And the cabinet may have a date code somewhere inside.

A loose weave cloth is fine for inside the cabinets. It was mainly there to keep the insulation from the speaker cones. Not really needed but there again it won't hurt anything by leaving it in there.
 
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The "A" in the console model number during this period indicated it was sold without the reel-to-reel tape recorder. I checked the 1960 price list, (dated Oct. 1959,) which confirms the model number as W-1000-3A for the Executive IV in walnut less tape recorder, $1395. The exact period when the President and Executive V's were produced is still somewhat of a mystery. I don't believe I have any price lists covering them. So I will be interested in any dates you might glean from the EIA production codes. My 1960 Premiere 600 chassis had the month and year stamped on the back of the face plate. Also be sure to check the speakers for their EIA dates of manufacture.
 
larryderouin said:
The "A" could be the delineator for the Exec- V. There was a Custom Electra on the forum a couple weeks ago, a 1968 model that had what looked like a 1967 Metropolitan cabinet, which is slightly different from the 1966 C.E. cabinet. We all thought it was a Metro from the cab, but Red noted that the model # had a "B" behind it which made it a 2nd year Custom electra. So the "A" could mean it's a Exec. V., as the Exec V was a mid year change.

Steve; As you pull the individual chassis' out, write down the information on the transformers (all lines), along with the Model and serial #'s of the chassis'. If you find any date codes on caps, etc. note those too. And the cabinet may have a date code somewhere inside.

A loose weave cloth is fine for inside the cabinets. It was mainly there to keep the insulation from the speaker cones. Not really needed but there again it won't hurt anything by leaving it in there.
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The A part of the model number sounds like a very logical indicator. I will do my best to confirm the date and post all the things your mentioning. I'll also list the speaker driver numbers as I think there maybe a way to date them.

Larry The cloth I'm referring to is on the back of the cabinet not inside. You can see how the left speaker back covering cloth is ripped in the photo above.
 
sruddy said:
Here is a shot of the front. I think I can get most of the black streak on then TT drawer rubbed out. The top has splitting of the coating but I'm hoping I can sand and buff what's left without having to refinish it.

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That's a great looking console! Simple but beautiful lines. That's a keeper.
 
I'm making a little headway. I have removed all the tubes and was disappointed at the eclectic mix and poor shape of most. The Rectifier tube isn't even the specified tube and as best as I can see has a different current by over an amp, so here are some tube questions for you all.

  1. Rectifer V13 is 5U4GB calls for GZ34 is the tube I have an acceptable sub?
  2. Output tubes are miss matched. 3 are GE 6BQ5 other is Fisher Mullard? 7189 This doesn't seem like a good idea is it? If not what would be some recommended replacement tube options. FWIW I usually like the sound of Telefunken
  3. 12AX7's are a mix of RCA , Fisher/Mullard, and Fisher with a side getter. What brand would the side getter Fishers be? I have not yet come across any like them.
Some of you know there has been uncertainty as to if it's a Model IV or V. I have determined the the model to be an Executive IV by the speaker schematic. Here is a photo. Wish it was a V, I would love to hear the dual tweeters!

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In addition to the tube removal and testing I have started with the basic cleaning of dirt and grime. It's turning out pretty well. I can see from the photos below were I have missed some areas. Eyes are not as good as they used to be! Also the parts came in last night and I started working on the power section. I was planning on stuffing the C37 but the caps I purchased won't fit so I'm contemplating using the paper cover on and old cap and just slipping and glueing it over the existing cut off base. It should look very nice and save me on shipping charges to order one cap. Cons are it won't be as indestructible. The cap that was in tere was a 3 stage replacement and it was way to high as you can see in the before photos.. Here are some shots. I love the brass adjustment pots!



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Oh, I forgot to mention, I purchased a bunch of Phono Stage socket to chassis grommets http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=730virtualkey53400000virtualkey534-730 Thanks Larry!! I'll get those in along the way.


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Crap, I have hum!! I replaced all the caps except the ceramic ones. BTW there were 10 caps described as molded that were actually ceramic. I purchased them but didn't replace them. I'm assuming the hum is 60hz. It doesn't change with volume however it does intermittently go away. Normally it's been around 60bd measured at the speakers. Last night I was listening to an LP and I started to notice it getting loud enough to be very annoying. I turned the volume all the way down and measured again. This time is had gone up to 70db. I think I finally have 4 decent output tubes installed as I had one get red on me and didn't see any red plating last night when the hum got real loud.

Here are my test results so far.

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S -- As I'm sure you probably realize, the 7189 based X-1000 is really an X-101 by any other name. The Sam's schematic for that model will help as a backup if the Fisher schematic presents any concerns.

The rectifier needs to be a GZ34 as a 5U4GB -- in addition to pulling too much heater current -- has way too much voltage drop produced across it. As such, it then likely won't provide enough current to properly heat the preamp tube heaters -- or take much longer to do so.

The output tubes need to be well matched by (at least) quiescent current draw for a given bias voltage. If there is any significant mismatch between them, which ever one is the current hog will tend to show color in the plate, since collectively, they all have to pass enough current to heat the preamp heaters. Passing enough current to properly do that job will run the output tubes pretty hot, with little wiggle room left for any mismatch. Therefore, a good match is important -- not so much by manufacturer, but by quiescent current flow.

To help locate the hum, remove the phase inverter tubes. If the hum goes with them, then you know to look in those circuits. If the hum is still there, then the output stage or power supply are your target points.

Beautiful units! -- and you're doing a great job as usual!

Dave
 
The hum is still there without the phase inverter tubes. It comes a goes an gets higher or lower in volume but it's noticeable most of the time. When doing the tube removing test I forgot and left it on. I noticed an hour later and it was dead quiet.

Also what do you think about these output tube gm readings. Min is 475


  • V10 - 675
  • V9 - 825
  • V5 - 650
  • V4 - 725
 
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Steve, swap V9 and V5 to get 2 more closely matched pairs as far as gm. Then take quiesent current readings at the cathodes. Swap tubes between pairs to get the pairs closer if needed.
 
Steve -- If the hum is there without the phase inverter tubes installed, but comes and goes at will, then I would suspect a faulty ground or intermittent electrolytic cap in the power supply.

Dave
 
biscuithead said:
So very impressed with this! Thank you for this thread, and thank you for doing what you are doing!
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Thanks I'm glad it's worthwhile!

larryderouin said:
Steve, swap V9 and V5 to get 2 more closely matched pairs as far as gm. Then take quiesent current readings at the cathodes. Swap tubes between pairs to get the pairs closer if needed.
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Thanks, will do. That will also give me a Mullard and GE combo for each channel. Last night I played with the balance to hear the difference of the two different output tubes. The Mullard tubes definitely sounded warmer so this swap will even out the sound.

dcgillespie said:
Steve -- If the hum is there without the phase inverter tubes installed, but comes and goes at will, then I would suspect a faulty ground or intermittent electrolytic cap in the power supply.

Dave
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K I'll check everything in the power section. I only have a capacitor tester that tests capacitance not leakiness or intermittent operation. Unless I can find a better tester I'm going to assume the CE Manufacturing can is good. I wonder if the Vishay Atom 40uf cap I stuffed for C37A could be the culprit. I should have ordered two pencil type with radial leads but ended up getting the Vishay axial lead cap for C37A and I had to extend the negative lead with an 18 gauge copper wire. I am getting much better figuring out parts but still need a bit more experience. I remember when trying to find just one cap was nearly impossible! I also replaced the R23 resistor connected to that cap as well. I'm going with values listed in the Executive III and IV Service manual. I like how the Sams schematic has values but there are so many versions of the X-101 not sure if the Sams is the earliest which I believe would be correct for my unit. I should compare them to find out. Thx!!

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In fact, the Sam's folder is almost certainly for the earliest X-101 offering, with ganged tone controls, and the Mode selector switch as shown for the earliest units.

Dave
 
Fixed the hum. It's now quite as a mouse! I'm pretty sure it was due to me installing the C34 sections reversed. I remember checking that when I first replaced them but I must have been dyslexic that night. Thanks Dave, I may not have found it so quick if it wasn't for you. I first hooked it up to the console speakers which sound pretty good but small. So I switched to some X-10's that I have been working on but not satisfied with so far. All I can say is wow this integrated amp really brought them alive!! Here are a few photos dressed and undressed. Pulling the tuner next!

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