Salvaged a pair of Infinity Reference 2000.3 speakers and found THIS inside! Can I FIX this driver?

[GordonW]

I'd recommend using compressed air, to blow out anything between the voice coil, spider and frame (the cavity between the spider and the frame, where the voice coil goes through). Metal can hide in there, and get into the voice coil gap later, if it's not removed thoroughly.

Regards,
Gordon.

 

[valvenator]

Funny these should come up again. I was going through some stuff and just came across mine.
I kinda forgot about them. What's the best way to get to the crossover?
I'd like to see if new caps can make them sound a little fresher.
I got these from my brother and remember them sounding a lot clearer years ago when he had them.
To the OP, did you have any trouble getting the woofers off? Mine seem to be stuck on and I'm not sure I should try to force them off.

 

[mhjmhjones]

Hello and sorry for the delay getting back to you. There is a tacky strip between the woofer and and the cabinet. It’s fine to gently pry it off after you’ve removed the four screws attaching the woofer to the cabinet.

You can get to the crossover by unscrewing the plastic part holding the posts on the back. Just be careful not to over-tighten when reinstalling the plastic piece. Mine was a little brittle and it cracked a bit.

How do you like the 2000.3s?

Funny these should come up again. I was going through some stuff and just came across mine.
I kinda forgot about them. What's the best way to get to the crossover?
I'd like to see if new caps can make them sound a little fresher.
I got these from my brother and remember them sounding a lot clearer years ago when he had them.
To the OP, did you have any trouble getting the woofers off? Mine seem to be stuck on and I'm not sure I should try to force them off.

 

[mhjmhjones]

I was able to repair the woofer using the method outlined below. Thank you Gordon!

I used a Dremel to enlarge the holes holding the woofer overhead to allow any shavings to fall out, rather than in. Then I had an idea to use a marking crayon to help me align everything. I applied the epoxy to the frame then realized I forgot to mark the frame and magnet with the marking crayon so I couldn’t see the old glue marks! I had to guess which way it went back on. I guess I got it right because the cone was depressing as it should. I let it set for a while then checked it after the specified set time. It didn’t hold because I think I was gun shy to use too much adhesive. So I mixed up more epoxy and reset it with some additional weight. Let it dry overnight and tested it this morning. Speakers are sounding pretty good for free speakers and a little, but not much, effort! They are now my shop speakers in the garage. Some day I’ll compare them to my other similar speaker sets.

I've fixed that sort of thing before- without having to tear the cone out of the basket. You will have to slightly enlarge the rivet holes in the basket, to allow the magnet to go back on with a little "wiggle room", so that it can be centered so that the voice coil doesn't want to rub anywhere around the voice coil circumference- a Dremel is a great thing for this. Of course, you WILL have to be ESPECIALLY CAREFUL to GET RID OF all the metal particles generated by this, before the magnet assembly is brought ANYWHERE near the basket, during or after the grinding process!

Once you have it where the basket will slip cleanly over the rivets, and it is properly centered (pushing on the cone in various point around its outer circumference doesn't make it want to rub more quickly in one place, compared to pushing on other points), then just mix up some epoxy, cover the entire area where the basket meets the magnet (while making sure you don't use too much, to make sure it doesn't squish out on the inside, near the voice coil opening), place the basket on the magnet assembly, make sure it's again centered (by pushing on the cone in various places around the cone circumference)- once it's lined up, just let it dry overnight- and it should be fine.

Regards,
Gordon.

 

[valvenator]

Hello and sorry for the delay getting back to you. There is a tacky strip between the woofer and and the cabinet. It’s fine to gently pry it off after you’ve removed the four screws attaching the woofer to the cabinet.

You can get to the crossover by unscrewing the plastic part holding the posts on the back. Just be careful not to over-tighten when reinstalling the plastic piece. Mine was a little brittle and it cracked a bit.

How do you like the 2000.3s?

Thanks, I really appreciate your help. Glad you got yours back in shape. I haven't listened to mine in quite a while but liked them initially.
I'm hoping the crossover isn't too complicated.
I have some extra caps I bought for another project and at almost the same crossover frequency as these so with a bit of luck I won't have to buy any new ones.