Sansui 5000 series with the Skippy driver fix VS the 6013 board
- Thread starter mrk229
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Thoughts, yes. Definitive answer, no.
In one thread on AK there was actually a person who had both the Skippy mod boards and 6013 boards and preferred the Skippy boards.
I'll post a link in the very unlikely chance I can find it again.
It would seem many on AK have had no problem with Skippy mod boards. My personal view on rebuilding the boards is twofold:
1:How well have the various components aged.
2: How good is one at working on these old boards without lifting traces.
If you have the time, parts and skill, go ahead and rebuild. Installing reproduction 6013 boards is a lot easier.
In one thread on AK there was actually a person who had both the Skippy mod boards and 6013 boards and preferred the Skippy boards.
I'll post a link in the very unlikely chance I can find it again.
It would seem many on AK have had no problem with Skippy mod boards. My personal view on rebuilding the boards is twofold:
1:How well have the various components aged.
2: How good is one at working on these old boards without lifting traces.
If you have the time, parts and skill, go ahead and rebuild. Installing reproduction 6013 boards is a lot easier.
Thanks Guido57,
I was hoping for a little more action on this. I have already rebuilt the 1040 boards in my 5000a with the Skippy mod, new caps etc.
I recently got a parts unit 5000a with the original 6013 boards and was considering a swap if it was really warranted.
I was hoping for a little more action on this. I have already rebuilt the 1040 boards in my 5000a with the Skippy mod, new caps etc.
I recently got a parts unit 5000a with the original 6013 boards and was considering a swap if it was really warranted.
I'm also surprised at the lack of reaction. Perhaps because there is so much already here on these boards?
In my limited experience it is more common to find these units with the 6013 boards. I doubt many unmodified, either Skippy or replacement 6013's, exist as working units.
A 5000 series would have to be pretty far gone for me to consider breaking it down for parts though admittedly online prices for parts is insane.
In my limited experience it is more common to find these units with the 6013 boards. I doubt many unmodified, either Skippy or replacement 6013's, exist as working units.
A 5000 series would have to be pretty far gone for me to consider breaking it down for parts though admittedly online prices for parts is insane.
The Skippy mod does address the concern over the 1040 flame out potential. The last two 5000's (no a or x) I restored both had working non modified 1040 boards. Both received new 6013 boards, one has point to point boards the other smd component boards. I was unable to hear any difference between them (or with one set of 1040's that I did the Skippy mod to).
Having said all that there is widespread knowledge about the potential for failure of the 1040 board with less awareness that they can be modified for safety. Add into that thought the really old tin can transistors and carbon composition resistors and my choice would be for the 6013's. I do not feel there is any real historical value reason to keep the original boards.
Having said all that there is widespread knowledge about the potential for failure of the 1040 board with less awareness that they can be modified for safety. Add into that thought the really old tin can transistors and carbon composition resistors and my choice would be for the 6013's. I do not feel there is any real historical value reason to keep the original boards.
While I opted to use @bonzoro 6013 repros in my A and X, I'd have no reservation about modding (and rebuilding with all fresh components) 1040 boards, if no readily available alternative existed. I will say his boards were very well done, and made for a slightly less time consuming rework of the two receivers I used them in, which was reason enough to pay the money for them; at least in my mind. I've certainly spent larger sums of money more foolishly many times.
I did keep both sets of 1040 boards removed in case I may need them for some future work on a 5000/A/X I might happen to acquire. I am surprised with the number of people who try to economize on repairs that there haven't been more threads here on reworking 1040 boards.
I did keep both sets of 1040 boards removed in case I may need them for some future work on a 5000/A/X I might happen to acquire. I am surprised with the number of people who try to economize on repairs that there haven't been more threads here on reworking 1040 boards.
My first 5000 series unit had 1040-1 boards with a burnt channel. All the threads I found on rebuilding the earlier boards had BOM's where the listed replacements for the original transistors were themselves discontinued. Felt like I was in a bottomless rabbit hole until the Bonzoro boards came along.
Come to think of it I ended up in a rabbit hole anyway, I just don't mind it so much when I can get stuff to work.
Come to think of it I ended up in a rabbit hole anyway, I just don't mind it so much when I can get stuff to work.
Yeah, transistor subs are a pain in the ass to keep up with owing to the constant changes in available parts. Luckily one can ask here, and one of the resident techs will usually pipe up with a current part number, assuming one exists.
dly66
Addicted Member
Another F-1040-1 rebuilder. Then again like the 800 I recently did often put new transistors in the amp circuit in these old Sansui. Have heat sinked MJE 15032/33 as the drivers, @skippy124 mod, popping the cover like I thought other one should be a KSC2690 should be either KSC1845 or KSC1815 at the front end. Does not get very warm when feeding the Klipsch in the living room even after cranking tunes for a few hours.
The unit I bought from someone down between York and Lake Wylie it was just distorting. New boards can be needed some 5000s when some F-1040 boards fail it can destroy part of the board. Apparently with some a lot of current went through the board where it was not supposed to or components got very hot possibly fried (charred mess).
Onsemi does not make it easy either major suppliers may be out of stock and say they are not projected to get more for months (Mouser will show their order volume and projected dates) or they decide to drop some of the favored replacements.
The unit I bought from someone down between York and Lake Wylie it was just distorting. New boards can be needed some 5000s when some F-1040 boards fail it can destroy part of the board. Apparently with some a lot of current went through the board where it was not supposed to or components got very hot possibly fried (charred mess).
Onsemi does not make it easy either major suppliers may be out of stock and say they are not projected to get more for months (Mouser will show their order volume and projected dates) or they decide to drop some of the favored replacements.
Hey there! Rebuilding F-1040-1 as well and it seems like TR801 is oriented backwards to the lettering. Is this a known issue? Haven't been able to find verification elsewhere....
Oh fascinating! Every reference I've looked up says the opposite. Obviously I'll check it, but...thank you!
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