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Sansui 5000x install new F-6013 Boards help

plyzo said:
I am tempted to just remove these boards and resort back to the 1040 boards as I just don't know what else it could be. Voltage readings seem right leading to the boards.
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On mine as well, I measure 75 volts into each board.
 
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eiraved said:
I understand the frustration. Rather than reverting, removing yourself from the task for a few days may help clear the mind to make room for a solution.
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Ya I hear ya. I have been doing that since I have other projects. My voltage readings going into board seem right so I suspect something is going on with the boards even though they are brand new.
 
Here are the voltage readings from board:

Left Board
Pin 1: 82v
Pin 2: 82V
Pin 3: .018v
Pin4: 0V
Pin5: 0.017v
Pin 6: 0v
Pin 7: 0v
Pin 8: 0v
Pin 12: 82V

Right Board
Pin 1: 82V
Pin 2: 82V
Pin 3: 9.5v
Pin 4: 9.3V
Pin 5: 10v
Pin 6: 9.5V
Pin 7: 0v
Pin 8: 0v
Pin 12: 82v

Looks as if Left Board pin 5 is not outputting any voltage to the filter cap.
 
Left side Board TR804A is getting 82V at middle pin but left and right pin has 0v.
Right side Board TR804A is getting 82v at middle pin and left and right are at 10v.
 
Probably easier to fix the faulty 6013 board, than to reinstall and properly mod the 1040 boards. The latter can be made to operate reliably, but since you already have the 6013 boards, I'd stick with those. I'm wondering now if the one board was damaged due to screwy wiring?
 
Sansuiman said:
Probably easier to fix the faulty 6013 board, than to reinstall and properly mod the 1040 boards. The latter can be made to operate reliably, but since you already have the 6013 boards, I'd stick with those. I'm wondering now if the one board was damaged due to screwy wiring?
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Ya I think I can just fix these boards but want to wait for Bonzoro to reply back and see what he thinks. I mean no blame on his boards and not sure if it was wiring or what but I don't mind just fixing the issue at this point.
 
Would you be able to tip the boards and take a picture of the wiring between the boards and the output transistor sockets?
 
I went ahead and pulled TR804 and TR803 and the reading on the MJF15030G shows the following results:
 

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Cannot see from the pictures, do the wires from point 6,7,8 go to the output transistor wired to the output coupling capacitor?
 
Overundr1 said:
Cannot see from the pictures, do the wires from point 6,7,8 go to the output transistor wired to the output coupling capacitor?
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2,3,4 then 6,7,8 go to output transistors. Pin 5 goes to filter. Pin 1 - fuse. Pin 12 tied to Pin 1.
 
Overundr1 said:
Will get a picture of my installation later this evening to compare with yours.
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Appreciate it.
I am pretty certain that the wiring is correct but maybe early on when I didn't have this correctly that it might of shorted out some of the components. Hard to really say but that would be my assumption.
 
Note that pin 5 and pin 6 are linked together, I used pin 5

from front to back 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8

pin 1 orange wire from fuse, also jumper to 12 (though on the 5000x you could use the other point as discussed)
pin 2 orange wire to output transistor that does NOT go to output cap
pin 3 grey wire to output transistor that does NOT go to output cap
pin 4 white wire to output transistor that does NOT go to output cap
pin 5 or 6 orange wire to output transistor that DOES go to output cap
pin 7 grey wire to output transistor that DOES go to output cap
pin 8 white wire to output transistor that DOES go to output cap

the other channel same way except colors are red/blue/black.
the wire running along the bottom of the board is the tie between pins 1 and 12



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plyzo said:
2,3,4 then 6,7,8 go to output transistors. Pin 5 goes to filter. Pin 1 - fuse. Pin 12 tied to Pin 1.
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Your outputs are in pairs of 2, the power supply, through the fuses go to one transistor (the main TR807) then pin 6,7,8 connect to TR809 verifying Emitter, Base and Collector on those 2 outputs. Work just one pair at a time so as not to get mixed up. Red wires go to one pair, and the orange go to the other pair. The outputs are not marked so mark them with a magic marker and make sure you get the collector wires correct. 807/809 is one side, and 808 and 810 are the other side.

Running pin 1 and 2 connected to pin 12 may skew your Bias reading so if possible, connect pin 12 to your spot on the power supply you repaired. or at the base of the fuses but the boards will be hot even with the fuses out and can cause issues when hooking up your meter without sparking anything.
 
plyzo said:
Took a reading from speaker terminals with no speakers and have almost 10v DC so something is not right.
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That's a prime example of a cap or your outputs.............. Pull all that stuff and check it out of circuit. 10V offset is BAD NEWS.. It may be too late but it should NOT be passing your Dim Bulb Test with 10 V on the speaker terms........
 
Zekeman said:
I am having not dissimilar issues however, I was measuring bias on mine and when I put the fuses back in I saw, out of my peripheral vision, a little flash somewhere in the vicinity of R815 on each board (The receiver was not powered on but it was plugged in). I have a functioning L channel but it doesn’t sound quite right. The right challenge was out. Today I pulled all the outputs just to double check them and when I powered up the receiver again I had a slight distorted right channel and then it slowly faded out to zero output.

I have 75 watts on the cans of the outputs on the one side of each channel but the other cans show about 9 V or 12 V (for a left channel ) is the highest I can dial it up to. The right channel has millivolt readings. So I am watching this thread closely as it may provide clues into my unit.

Thanks.
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I don't know how you measured 75 WATTS. Do you mean VOLTS???
 
Overundr1 said:
Note that pin 5 and pin 6 are linked together, I used pin 5

from front to back 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8

pin 1 orange wire from fuse, also jumper to 12 (though on the 5000x you could use the other point as discussed)
pin 2 orange wire to output transistor that does NOT go to output cap
pin 3 grey wire to output transistor that does NOT go to output cap
pin 4 white wire to output transistor that does NOT go to output cap
pin 5 or 6 orange wire to output transistor that DOES go to output cap
pin 7 grey wire to output transistor that DOES go to output cap
pin 8 white wire to output transistor that DOES go to output cap

the other channel same way except colors are red/blue/black.
the wire running along the bottom of the board is the tie between pins 1 and 12



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Thank you for this. I have it wired just like that as well. I had pin 1, 12 connected but I am going to revert back to having 12 with power from DC on board F-1042. Then run a jumper from 12 to the other 12 just like how it was done originally on my F-1040 board.
 
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