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Sansui 6060 Left Channel Speaker Pops Advice Needed Please

PJuddery

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

I've got a Sansui 6060 that I'm in the process of restoring. When I bought it, the left channel was a mess. It had almost nothing but distortion/ static, that was independent of the volume control position or the use of any other controls. The right channel was also rather intermittent, but had clean audio when it was working. Initially I did all of the required control cleaning, multiple times and that did resolve scratchiness that I'd observed when working certain controls and greatly improved the right channel intermittent issue, (but didn't completely sort it, so more on that later), it didn't fix the left channel fault.
That turned out to actually be 2 different faults. The first and most obvious was the 2sa726 transistor pairs on the driver board. I replaced those with exact hfe matched KSA992F pairs in both channels and it then seemed to be working perfectly. That is until a few hours into soak testing, when the issue reappeared.
I later tracked that down to be caused by the 2sc1313 pair on the pre-amp/ tone board and so I replaced those on both channels, with KSC1845F exact matched pairs, (I didn't know if they needed matching, but I figured it couldn't hurt to do so, so I did).

** For anyone reading this in the future, attempting to track down a similar issue, I worked out that the 2nd issue was on the pre-amp/ tone board, because the volume control didn't change the state of the distortion/ static, however, pressing the Audio Muting button made it disappear completely, which meant that the issue was in-between the volume control and the Audio Muting button. Both of those are mounted on the pre-amp/ tone board. **

So, after being convinced that I'd found and fixed the left channel faults, I proceeded to start doing a full restore. I had found it a royal pain to try to find a single supplier that had all of the components that I needed and was going to have to place 3 different orders, with 3 lots of shipping costs, so I ended up bought a rebuild kit, which contains the majority of the components that might be problematic. The caps are all Nichicon PW, Nichicon Muse and Wima, so should be good and reliable.

So far I've rebuilt the power supply and the driver board, the latter of which still needs 1 x 50v 47uf capacitor that didn't come with the kit and also didn't come with a replacement for the 2SC1951 constant current transistors, or the 2SD438 and 2SB560 output driver transistors, but I realised that while I was waiting for the kit to arrive, so I ordered some ZTX694B, KSC2383Y and KSA1013 respectively and I'm planning to replace those today, as well as start working on the pre-amp/ tone board rebuild.

However, after running the unit all day yesterday, (because I was procrastinating taking the whole front end apart to get to the pre-amp/ tone board, which is a pain) and also really enjoying listening to music through it, so didn't want to switch it off to work on it), it got to late last night and I suddenly got a few loud pops through the left speaker and not wanting to risk damaging the speaker, I switched off and disconnected everything.

I'm hopeful that completing the restoration/ rebuild, should eliminate the pops from happening again, so this is probably a moot question, however, I'd really like to know what might have caused that. The channel distortion due to the noisy transistors I understand, but as these have been replaced, as well as almost all of the electrolytics in the power and driver boards, I was wondering if anyone could give me any insight into this?

I know that such a potentially rare intermittent fault may be impossible to definitively track down and prove, but I'd really like to at least learn what the potential causes might be, either for future reference or in case the remaining rebuild doesn't stop it from happening again.

By the way, I set the bias to 15mv on each channel, across the output resistors as per the service manual. This then measures as 20 - 22 mv across the speaker terminals with the volume all the way down and no speakers attached. Also F.Y.I, the trim pots have been replaced with new Bourns pots of the correct value.

Thanks in advance for any replies.
Peter
 
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By the way, I forgot to mention that the intermittent right channel issue only happens in speakers A mode and after tracing everything through with a multimeter, there doesn't appear to be an issue anywhere, not even in the speaker select switch and as regardless of which speaker position is selected, the same connection is used from the protect relay and the only diverges at the select switch, so the relay can't be at fault. So I've come to the conclusion that there must be a bad connection in the cheap spring speaker connectors. I'm planning to replace those for 3 way binding posts though, so I'm not particularly concerned with that.
 
So I haven't actually done much with this today. I was fully intending to, starting with the constant current transistor and the complimentary pairs, all on the driver board, but then after measuring the hfe on all of the npn and pnp transistors that I've bought for this purpose, the npn are pretty much all the same or very close hfe and the pnp are also pretty much the same as each other too, however, the npn and pnp lots that I've got are not even close to being similar. As mentioned above, I've got KSC2383Y for the NPN and KSA1013Y for the PNP. I've ended up spending most of today trying to find out for sure, how critical it is to match the output driver complimentary pairs, but I haven't been able to find a definitive answer, because there are so many variables and it seems also opinions. I'd really appreciate some advice on this and also on the original post too please. I know there's quite a lot to read. I was just trying to give enough background info to enable anyone reading, to be able to help.

Regarding the pops, I'm aware that the speaker terminal are crap and in speakers A position, the right channel is intermittent because of that. Could less than perfect speaker connection cause the pops I experienced?
 
Right, so I've spent the afternoon recapping the pre-amp/ tone board, replacing the speaker protect relay and I've also mechanically worked the nasty spring lever speaker connectors, which I hoped might resolve any connection issues within them. I'm planning to replace them with 3 way binding posts, but I'll need to make a mounting plate first. Anyway, it's all up and running again and OMFG, the huge jump in volume was really unexpected. I don't know if it was the pre-amp/ tone board recap or the new speaker relay or getting a better connection at the speaker terminals, but it's not a tiny change, that's for sure. All of the speaker connections are working now too, both on A and B mode.

It's too early to tell if the popping issue is also fixed, as that's literally only happened on one single occasion, after many, many hours of play time, but I guess I'll find out in due course. I'm fairly optimistic though, so fingers crossed. I've still got the tuner and phono EQ boards to rebuild, but they aren't quite as urgent. I probably won't ever use the phono input anyway, as I've got an external phono stage and although I will use the radio sometimes, it probably won't be that often. Both will be rebuilt in the next week or so though.
Oh and I've also replaced the bulbs behind the meters, with 8v fuse type LED lamps. I'll need to decide at some point if I prefer those or the original incandescent bulbs.
Sansui_6060_With_New_LED_Bulbs.jpg
 
So, back to the question of matching the KSC2383Y NPN and KSA1013Y PNP complimentary output driver pairs, can anyone advise on how critical close matching is on those? I've got the input differential pairs matched exactly, but am finding matching NPN and PNP hfe and vbe values to be rather more difficult and would definitely appreciate some advice on it.
 
Just a quick update, for anyone who comes across this thread later.
After rebuilding the pre-amp/ tone board, (recapped and replaced the fuse resistor), my 6060 had a massive jump in volume, which really surprised me. I don't know if it was replacing the speaker relay, or if it was the pre-amp rebuild, but the jump was really, really big. Previously I was listening with the volume control at around 10:30 - 11:00 position, whereas afterwards it was in the 8 o'clock position.
Even at that level, it was sounding harsh and fatiguing and I started noticing lots of sibilance and then after lots of experimentation, I realised that it was actually distorting to a degree.
The instructions that came with the rebuild kit, stated to set the bias to 10mv after rebuilding the power and driver boards, (which I did first), but the service manual states 15mv, so I assumed the rebuild instructions were incorrect and had set it at 15mv. However, as I was getting distortion and sibilance, (I'm assuming caused by distortion), I decided to follow the rebuild instructions advice and set it to 10mv, to see what difference that might make.
The result was a definite improvement, but it still wasn't quite right. I was still perceiving distortion and after doing a load of Google searching and reading of various discussions, I started to wonder about whether the level of my input sources was too high for the 6060 now that it's been rebuilt and it presumably more efficient. So, I did some more experiments.

As the 6060 only has a single Aux in and I need at least 4, I'd already got my sources connected via a switch box, which as it happens, also has a master volume control. I gradually turned this down to around 50%, in increments, testing as I went along and each time, I noticed improvements. I've now got it set at around 50%, with some tape across the control so it can't be knocked up to full volume by my kitten and as a result, the volume control on the Sansui, is back up to around the 10:00 position and everything sounds great.

I've never previously understood the need for line level attenuation, but now I most definitely can, so I'm going to either buy or build some custom attenuators, one for each input and tailored to that specific input, as each has a different level.

I'm still not sure exactly why my 6060 jumped up in volume by so much, (I really with I hadn't replaced the relay at the same time, because now I don't know which it was that caused it), but I'm certainly happy that there is what appears to be a good solution and that in all likelihood, the 6060 hasn't got a fault that is causing it.

Oh and I haven't heard any popping since, so I think it might be all good in the hood.
 
By the way, the cause of the sudden jump in volume turned out to be because I replaced the fuse resistor on the pre-amp/ tone board. The original 220 ohm fuse resistor had drifted to 87k ohms, so a pretty massive drift and clearly that was limiting power to the pre-amp board. After replacing it with the correct rating, full power was restored, although quite honestly, I think it sounded better before.
 
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