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Sansui 9090 Red Protection Light

Derek S

New Member
Hello All,

First time poster on AK (longtime lurker!). I just got a 9090 (not a 9090db) from a thrift shop, so not sure about its history. Was definitely in a smoker's house due to tar all over it. VERY dusty/dirty inside so I vacuumed it out and did basic clean up. Got the dial lights working with the simple wire switch trick from the Sticky.

It has the blinking red button issue that appears to be common in the 8080/9090. It will just not go out of protection mode. If I pull out the Driver Circuit Board (F-2436) the protection light goes green and all is well. I have read over tons of the other threads and my guess is that I have a "fusible resistor" issue and need to replace some of the resistors. I am very handy and have done some basic soldering in the past, but I am self taught and by no means a pro. But, I am not scared to remove the resistors and replace them.

My question is: due to my relative inexperience, is there an order I should go in with the resistors? (I know they are in pairs for left/right) Does anyone know the MOST likely to LEAST likely ones I should be pulling out to test and potentially replace? Is it worth just doing all of them? I do not relish the idea of doing more than I must because of my lack of skill. I would also like to order everything I need at one time because its the shipping that is so expensive. I already have the Service Manual and a multimeter. Basically, after reading all these posts, there is some confusion on my part as to which resistors on the board should be changed.

Should I try to measure the DC Offset before getting into the resistors? I understand that is like taking the receiver's "temperature". I have not yet used Deoxit to clean switches/pots either. I wanted to wait until I knew I could get the thing working. Do y'all think I am approaching this project correctly or should I be doing something else? Thanks, and any advice is welcome advice!
 
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The pictures in that link show an early production driver board. The later production boards have somewhat different fuseable resistor configurations. Just check/replace any of the resistors that looks like a fuse resistor.

- Pete
 
Thanks y'all! I ordered a resistor kit from Vintage Stereos LLC -- Parts@QrxRestore.com -- should be here next week. Seemed like a really good deal.

Pete - Looks like mine is the the "newer model" board. See pic. Any other tips or advice are welcome regarding my board?

While I am waiting, is there anything else I could do with the receiver, or should I just wait and see if I can get a Green Protection Light first?
 

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Thanks y'all! I ordered a resistor kit from Vintage Stereos LLC -- Parts@QrxRestore.com -- should be here next week. Seemed like a really good deal.

Pete - Looks like mine is the the "newer model" board. See pic. Any other tips or advice are welcome regarding my board?

While I am waiting, is there anything else I could do with the receiver, or should I just wait and see if I can get a Green Protection Light first?
Hope you have some caps for it as well. Those large black ones look pretty well done.. Note the shrunken plastic sleeve.
 
I finally received the resistor pack in the mail and got them soldered on the board. It was the 390 ohm resistors that were the problem. It powers on and everything works. This thing has massive CLEAN power!

My next issue: The left channel Watt meter is showing lower Watts than the right, but it sounds balanced to me (and my wife). I am fairly particular, and this will bother me. Any ideas how to address the meter? I used Deoxit on everything I could get to. Really the only things not cleaned are the three tone controls. Is there a way to test if it is indeed balanced? I am thinking I really should change the caps as well. Could that have an effect on the meter? Any thoughts are welcome!
 
I believe there is a calibration procedure/adjustment for the power meters.

Well there is and adjustment VR1 and VR2 on the F-2547 Protector board. But I'm not finding a written procedure.Maybe LBPete will chime in @LBPete

Another possibility is a dirty S01 switch( wafers a and b ) may need to be deox-ited.
 
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