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Sansui 9090 wood cabinet specifications

J

jervz

Member
Hello, I'm would like to embark on a new project to built a new cabinet for my Sansui 9090.

I would appreciate it if anyone can direct me on where to find the original specifications (i.e. dimensions, etc.) of the wooden cabinet?

I plan to use baltic birch plywood and walnut wooden veneer. Do you have other suggestions on the materials and tips on doing this project? Thanks in advance.
 
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Without knowing your skill level I assume basic/novice in woodworking in which case you can save yourself a lot of work by using pre-veneered plywood, Available in all the common and many exotic wood grains, including American Walnut as per original.
 
Thanks for your suggestion. I haven't done project like this but I'm willing to learn. I initial thought of baltic birch plywood because it's denser and less gaps in it.

I'd like to save some cost but don't want to sacrifice quality. Do you think if I use a American walnut it would look good or look similar to the original cabinet if I stained it?
I thought the original cabinets are made of standard plywood and has wooden walnut veneer on it to look very close to the original cabinet?
 
jervz said:
Hello, I'm would like to embark on a new project to built a new cabinet for my Sansui 9090.

I would appreciate it if anyone can direct me on where to find the original specifications (i.e. dimensions, etc.) of the wooden cabinet?

I plan to use baltic birch plywood and walnut wooden veneer. Do you have other suggestions on the materials and tips on doing this project? Thanks in advance.
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If you use walnut veneer, just oil it. Walnut is an "oily" wood and stain sometimes doesn't turn out very well and can be "blotchy". The original walnut veneer was simply oiled.I personally use Minwax Tung oil and it turns out great on walnut with just 2 coats (24 hours between). You can do more coats if you like for a bit more "depth", but I haven't found it necessary. Then let it cure for a week or two for it to cure/harden good. Baltic Birch is a good stable plywood to use as the base cabinet. I don't have the original inside dimensions so I can't help you there. My 9090db is slightly different. If you have to, do some careful measuring of the chassis but I am sure someone will come forth with the original dimensions, cutouts, and recess (for the face plate area). And of course give us lots of pictures of the finished cabinet. :thumbsup:
 
Thanks for tips, can you send a photo of your 9090db with oil walnut veneer? Is your new cabinet pre veneer walnut plywood or you applied a wooden walnut veneer on top of a wood?

Definitely sharing a photo once the new cabinet is done. :)
 
@DougBrewster, my Sansui is 9090 non-DB version. I'm not sure if 8080db or 9090DB will have the same exact dimensions as the non-DB version. If yes and if you don't mind, I would appreciate your measurements.
Thanks in advance.
 
jervz said:
@DougBrewster, my Sansui is 9090 non-DB version. I'm not sure if 8080db or 9090DB will have the same exact dimensions as the non-DB version. If yes and if you don't mind, I would appreciate your measurements.
Thanks in advance.
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The external dimensions for the 9090 are exactly the same as those for the 9090DB (and 8080DB) according to hifiengine. It's highly unlikely that the internal, chassis, dimensions would be different. It's late night here. I'll go into the attic in the morning and dig out the case...
 
Better late than never I guess but I completely forgot that I said I'd provide you with dimensions. Sorry, but here they are.

The critical dimension is the width of the faceplate. You'll need to confirm your 9090 faceplate is 520mm as is the 9090DB and 8080DB. The base veneered carcass is made out of 13mm (0.512") thickness material. The internal width of the original case at the front rebated area (where it accommodates the faceplate) is 522mm which gives a 1mm clearance at each side for ease of installation but I made mine 521mm for a neater/tighter fit. That's your call. If you get it too tight it's difficult to remove material to ease the case once it's assembled because you can't get right into the corners with a machine.

The width of the front case rebate isn't particularly important. It just needs to be wide enough to staple in some 3mm thick x about 25mm wide plywood strips to act as movement stops for the case once it's installed.

The last picture is of the lock mitre tool I use for the corner joints. You'll need to practice with it (a lot) on some 1/2" scrap wood before you try the real thing. And of course you'll need a 1/2" router and a router table, though you could make one pretty easily.

Tip; do not forget to put the chamfer (assuming you want one) on the front edge of your sheet/s of material before assembly. It can't be done after. Also when gluing the lock mitre joints use only as much glue as is necessary to wet the joint. If there is too much glue when the joints are squeezed together by clamps it can penetrate right through the wood and into the decorative surface on the outside. I'll keep my spare case handy because I'm sure to have forgotten something that you'll need to know.

Hope that helps; any questions just ask...

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Yes Nick, I still have the 8080 case which has had the vinyl wrap replaced. Not perfectly done but quite presentable. I also have a 9090 case which needs a refurb/re-veneering. Note that originally the 8080 series were vinyl wrapped and the 9090 series had American Walnut veneer. The DB models had the same cases as the non DB.
The 9090 series case has a 15 degree chamfer on the front edge whereas the 8080 series front edge is cut square.

If you're interested in either of them PM me (trades have to be discussed off the main forum) by going to the top right of the page to Inbox and "Start a conversation".
 
I just started my 9090 rehab. I know I am missing the bottom wood trim strip. I think I can have one made. But, is there also a metal strip piece that the wood would attach to? If so, are they hard to find? Does anyone know if this metal can be reproduced? Any ideas, contacts, used parts are welcome!
 
DougBrewster said:
^ No, there is not a metal strip. The wood trim attaches directly to the bottom of the faceplate using 4 small machine screws.
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By chance would you happen to have the dimensions for the lower stringer, mine is missing so have no reference. Thanks
 
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