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SANSUI AU-517 Recap & Restoration?

T

thattreeguy

New Member
Hey Sansui fans, thanks for reading.

Recently my (cherished) Sansui AU-517 starting going out in the right channel. Thanks to Audiokarma I figured out it was a dirty switch that separates/connects the power and pre amps. Cleaned with Deoxit and problem solved. By passed switch with Audioquest jumpers and sounded even better!

In my diagnostic efforts I opened her up and noticed how filthy she was on the inside and how ancient and discolored everything looked. I think the amp sounds amazing but as a preemptive measure I took her to my local vintage audio repair shop (Electric City Repair - Westminster, CO) for a cleaning and diagnostic. They sent me an estimate for a full recap and restoration for $480 of which the $60 I've already paid would go towards. They broke it down as follows: power supply and amp recap $200; large main filter caps $120; tone control and phono caps $160. Also mentioned cleaning of switchs
and general cleaning.

First off does the price seem reasonable?
Also before I approve it I'm sure there are questions I should ask but I'm not sure what to ask? All I can think of is how many caps would be replaced but I have no idea what the number should be. Also what brand of caps but once again I'm ignorant to what brands are quality and which are crap.

What other questions (& reasonable answers!) should I ask? Any other useful input would be greatly appreciated.

Listening to my "replacement", a Sansui 331, as I write this and damn it sounds good! I love Sansui!!
 
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I know nothing about the place that's doing this for you. Sounds a little high priced to me. $480 would not however get you something as good as the 517. I did my 919 myself with the help of these fine folks on the karma.
 
There's currently a recapped AU-717 listed on the bay for not much more than that. One of the pictures shows the old caps, to give you an idea of the number. (For the 717 anyhow.)

I recapped my AU-919 (several years ago) using Elna Simlic II (and a couple of Nichicon gold) for everything but the power supply. For that I used Panasonic FC (I did not replace the main filter caps). I had done some research prior to, and that seemed to be the general consensus for good caps, at the time. I'm sure you'll get plenty more opinions from people far more knowledgeable than myself.

You might ask what caps they are going to use. I doubt they would want to special order any if they have a supply on hand.

You might also want to give The Sound Doctor, in Loveland, a call. I've taken a few things to him over the years. He's honest, reasonably priced and does quality work. Lead time however is 6-8 weeks. I also remember reading, a while back, about someone in Englewood? Or there about. Maybe someone here will chime in if he's still around.
 
Doesn't seems to be that expensive to me, specially if they will install new caps and properly clean the unit. They seems like a legit business.
thattreeguy said:
Also what brand of caps
Click to expand...
Nichicon, Panasonic, CDE, Elna United chemicon, Kemet, TDK are good brands. Chinese stuff like cheng and similar not good.

Just don't go to Noah Shumacer in colorado... You will loose your money and maybe you unit too.
 
If they do a proper job, that is a good price.

It's been a while since I worked on a 517, but if it has fusistors like the 717, those need to be replaced while they recap.

The 517 power supply should be checked for glue problems, anything that got the glue on it is suspect for corrosion.
 
Personally I think that's a little high. Also, there is much more to do to refurb these than replacing the caps. As mentioned above, the glue and fuse resistors.
I would replace the relay too while it's apart. I believe there are some transistors that should be replaced too.

As for sounding better after installing cables to "bypass" the pre/main switch, there must be another issue because the switch can't be bypassed that way.

I fully restored an AU-717 that was near mint and had trouble selling it locally for months. Finally sold it to a flipper for $400. The only offer I had.

Rob
 
Big thanks to everyone who has responded so far! Keep them coming if you have an opinion about it. I'm still trying to figure this out...don't have a lot of $, so kind of a big financial decision...& damn I love that 517!

I'd like to to respond to Rob. There is a switch on the back of the amp that can be set to "separated" and then the pre/main amps can be connected via rca pre/main in/outs located next to the switch...of this I'm certain because following research this is what I did and it worked and to my ears sounded better.
 
If the unit is a "Keeper" for you it should be good for another 20 years after re-capping (barring abuse, of course). Amortize the total (480/20 years=$24 a year, plus electricity).
 
thattreeguy said:
Big thanks to everyone who has responded so far! Keep them coming if you have an opinion about it. I'm still trying to figure this out...don't have a lot of $, so kind of a big financial decision...& damn I love that 517!

I'd like to to respond to Rob. There is a switch on the back of the amp that can be set to "separated" and then the pre/main amps can be connected via rca pre/main in/outs located next to the switch...of this I'm certain because following research this is what I did and it worked and to my ears sounded better.
Click to expand...

Re the connected/separated switch on the rear - even when set to separated there are still contacts within the switch that are in circuit - if you have a look at the schematic you can see this.

Cheers
John
 
thattreeguy said:
I'd like to to respond to Rob. There is a switch on the back of the amp that can be set to "separated" and then the pre/main amps can be connected via rca pre/main in/outs located next to the switch...of this I'm certain because following research this is what I did and it worked and to my ears sounded better.
Click to expand...

Not on this one. It only bypasses a third of the switch. The switch may still be dirty.

Rob
 
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No idea what I'm looking at. If I could read a schematic I probably wouldn't be taking my amp to a shop. But also confused on the purpose of the "switch" then and also why when switched to connected the amp played but not when switched to separated w/o cables...but would play on separated with cables connecting the pre/main in/out rca jacks. More than one source specifically stated that connecting those rca jacks would disable the switch...but what the hell to I know...not much but trying to learn!

THANKS FOR THE REPLIES!
 
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The red is the path the signal takes with the switch in the connected position. The green when in separated position. Where the break in the green line is(note that it should be on the same trace as the red line) , are your pre out/main in jacks. There is a break in the connection, so you would not have sound without adding the jumper cable. But as you can see, the signal still passes through the switch. The switch is the part with the three circles labeled 1, 2, and 3.

Both channels are shown so you can see the switch in the circuit below the one I drew on.

The part of the switch you bypass, the way you have it set up, is the common to #1 connection. That connection may be still be dirty, explaining the audible difference the way you have it set up now.

Rob
 
Hi, I am actually the guy who gave you the estimate. The amp does sound OK and does work both channels but that power supply and amplifier section are crying for attention. That is why we gave you the three quotes. The recap and restore of the power supply and amplifier section really should be done sooner than later. And when we say recap we also ad restore to that because pretty much all of the time there are more problems than just the electrolytic capacitors. And when we really get into the different sections of an amp or receiver to recap we can find all those flaky transistors, dry solder joints, out of spec resistors or other issues that may cause big problems in the future.
The replacement of the main filters is optional at this time but they are getting up there in the years. They do test good on the ESR meter and are not leaking but how long they last is a guess at this point. I usually use CDE or United Chemicon because they are economical and seem to be good but we can go Nichicon or Kemet for an additional cost.
And the full recap and restore including the tone and phono section are optional. If you want to do the whole thing at once great, but if not that is OK too. We really do try to get the best sound out of your gear but at the same time we don't want to pressure you into spending more than you are comfortable with. I hope this makes sense and running this as an actual business is a tricky thing these days. I can tell you I am not getting rich by any stretch of the imagination but it sure beats getting a real job.
 
For the amount of work that goes into a restoration, I think the price is more than reasonable. I think a lot of people do not take the time to think about the work that goes into a job like this, I do a lot of restos, for something like a AU517 and including main caps and all the other work necessary, I am about $700-800NZ, and I guarantee my work.
I think that works out about the same as this job with the current exchange rate. Most people nearly fall over when I first tell them, but once I explain it to them then it becomes obvious that the expense is well worth it....
 
Usually hobbyist do not account that is a business transaction and even when the technician loves what they do, they eat and pay bills. Not to mention that deserves being well compensated for, regardless what price the owner can get if he wants to sell after.
This video from a fellow AKer is very good.

 
Wasn't Robot 0011 a good sport? I think he was a good sport. That's what I needed, a good written summary. Never thought I was being gouged or taken advantage of...Robot fixed my Sansui FR 5080 turntable and replaced the "lamp" power cord someone had put on it... free of charge on shear principal! Very cool. Just needed information...and it got him to join this fine forum!

A huge thanks to EVERYONE who participated. All of it was worthwhile and helpful. All of you rock but please never forget....

Digital sucks, Analog is King!
 
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