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Sansui B-2301L / Sansui C-2301 restoration

Bumpalump

Well-Known Member
Hello, in this topic i will show you process of the restoration those separates, one of the best from past years, direct competition for the top of the line Technics, Sony, Accuphase
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We will start from power amplifier
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Some photo from the bottom
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1st I removed right power amp module, its really huge, also i like the connections design, everything can be easily disconnected
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Premium U-Con by-pass capacitors
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Really huge and solid emmiter resistors
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Will be lots of desoldering and soldering
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One module unscrewed
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Capacitors removed
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Lots of glue here
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Its a long way to remove glue from epoxy boards
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Capacitors measurments 470uF 63V
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They are fine

Another capacitors measurments 470uF 50V
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They are all fine, so will be installed again
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New thermal grease, resoldering, and one board is ready
Some parts required cleaning
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Second board had more glue
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If you feel this post doesnt belong, you can get the mods to delete it.
Just a few curious questions.
Were there issues/problems with these units or are they being done just for refresh/preventative maintainance?
Are they JDM or international voltage? I see Lots of Japan only versions out there lately, not many of the other. There is a JDM set forsale here locally. (Ontario, Canada) the guy wants a crazy amount of $$$ for them.
Love your work and postings.
 
Bumpalump:

Thanks for sharing.

The 2301L I rec'd suffered from very, very poor packing and due to the weight of the transformer and the rough handling, it required a complete redo of the framing that holds all the fiddly bits together (That has been done, but requires a final coat of paint.). I do not see any signs of that on this 2301L which is great.

I took the approach of Hyperion for the 2301L he worked and replaced all the electrolytics on the boards. And, when the old ones were measured, they all were in spec.

That is my experience overall in the limited work I have done on the 80s Sansui pieces I have - the electrolytic capacitors all measured fine, but I replaced them anyway. I believe the common wisdom of people with way, way more experience than I is that the electrolytics are part of a multi-decade Preventive Maintenance effort and that works for me.

I would be very interested to see what the distortion measurements are for this beast. Is that something you anticipate doing?
 
@DB-7
Main problem is the scratchy controls, rest is just preventative maintenance (glue, measuring capacitors, resoldering)

@JSMATT

In low/mid grade eqippment i usually change the capacitors, in top of the line i preffer to stay with originals, i can make measurments since my analyzer allow to make measurments with floating ground
 
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Time for controls cleaning
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Before
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After
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A lot of Riken premium resistors here
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Flat amp board
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Glue removed, capacitors measured
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Power amp offset before adjustment
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Flat amp + power amp before adjustment
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Flat amp + power amp after adjustment
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Lamp replacing
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Lets start with preamplifier
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I allways like to read those descriptions
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Top view
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Undercover
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Line amplifier removed
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Board removed
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Most time consuming, glue removing
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Capacitors were really bad, not surprised, much heat in this enclosure, some of them already replaced, together with new relay
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After few hours its ready
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Now, the phono stage
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Capacitors near dead
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Glue removed, some parts required replacing like zener diode and one 82nF capacitor
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Board completed
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Now, adjustments of the one side
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Parts replaced from both phono boards
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Second line amplifier board during repair
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All the parst replaced from both line amplifier boards
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Woah, those electrolytics seem huge, for the phono preamp? Does it run at really high voltage? Maybe it's just a camera lense effect...

Anyway, nice work!

Another newbie Q: don't phono preamps usually have a few more poly caps in them? I think I only see 1 poly cap in there?
 
Woah, those electrolytics seem huge, for the phono preamp? Does it run at really high voltage? Maybe it's just a camera lense effect...

Anyway, nice work!

Another newbie Q: don't phono preamps usually have a few more poly caps in them? I think I only see 1 poly cap in there?
This amplifier is a little different then what you (we) are used to. The big cap (C-22) that you see in the picture with 82000 on it is a polystyrene cap from 82000 pF. The capacitors you see with nice belly and the transparent top are also polystyrene. This was filled with the latest and best components available at that time, X-balanced ( alpha) circuit topology in the phono and control amp stages!
 
A lot of time and TLC to get the tons of glue off of that board ("Second line amplifier board during repair"). Looks like al the legs you lifted were not adversely affected by the glue tho.

Am curious as to why you disassembled the rotary db switches on the back of the power amp. Did you have poor readings or 'simply' take advantage of the state of disassembly to clean them?
 
That picture! - that's exactly what I had to do when I did one of these. It was simply not possible to make a proper job of cleaning the glue off without lifting those components. The glue had touched the leads of so many, in most cases not doing them too much harm. Cleaning the glue off is so very important, drastic measures are often needed.

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Great picture. :thumbsup:
 
A lot of time and TLC to get the tons of glue off of that board ("Second line amplifier board during repair"). Looks like al the legs you lifted were not adversely affected by the glue tho.

Am curious as to why you disassembled the rotary db switches on the back of the power amp. Did you have poor readings or 'simply' take advantage of the state of disassembly to clean them?
I lifted legs to not expose them with so much heat during glue removing

Switches were screatchy, but anyway, i allways disassembly every controls and clean them
 
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