Hi all what would be a fair price for a model Eight with speaker relay. And what would it be without speaker relay? Is the Eight Deluxe a better choice between the two models? Thanks to all.
Sansui Eight value
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captouch
Addicted Member
Not sure how much value difference there is between a relay and non-relay unit, but I'd say $300-400 if in very good cosmetic condition (all button labels present) and working 100%.
For the 8D, maybe a bit more. I've heard the build quality on the Eight is a bit better, but the 8D has a more modern amplifier design.
For the 8D, maybe a bit more. I've heard the build quality on the Eight is a bit better, but the 8D has a more modern amplifier design.
grillebilly
Empty Head
I had no idea they are that expensive but according to completed sales on auction the above post is right. It wasn't that long ago those models were flying well under the radar and could be had for $100. The G series and of course the 9090 were pricey...now a broken 9090 goes for what an excellent working and cosmetic unit cost a few years back.
$300-$400 is actually still pretty decent for them.
The design and build is the best I've ever seen.
Way over the top.
The entire tuner section is designed to be unhooked and lifted out. The tuning cap pulleys have places to be set aside with the string in place when you lift out the tuner.
There are double covers over the output transistors.
The amps simply plug Into contact slots.
The things that suck are the non-relay protection system (I just fixed one of those by unhooking it and removing it), the power cord connection (I had to update the last one up an IEC cord, grind the panel out), the amp adjustment procedure, typos in the manual and those damn button labels!
The design and build is the best I've ever seen.
Way over the top.
The entire tuner section is designed to be unhooked and lifted out. The tuning cap pulleys have places to be set aside with the string in place when you lift out the tuner.
There are double covers over the output transistors.
The amps simply plug Into contact slots.
The things that suck are the non-relay protection system (I just fixed one of those by unhooking it and removing it), the power cord connection (I had to update the last one up an IEC cord, grind the panel out), the amp adjustment procedure, typos in the manual and those damn button labels!
Ok thank you for the input. I think I'll make sure it's a relay model.
Don't let non-relay bother you too much. The non-relay are still great.
Deactivating the non-relay is simply cutting two wires. Pulling the non-relay protection is simply removing two screws (and replacing them, the hold the cap clamps too). The cut the ground wire and pull the first two wires out of the wire harness.
None of that matters if it's in good condition electronically and cosmetically.
They are very nice units.
Deactivating the non-relay is simply cutting two wires. Pulling the non-relay protection is simply removing two screws (and replacing them, the hold the cap clamps too). The cut the ground wire and pull the first two wires out of the wire harness.
None of that matters if it's in good condition electronically and cosmetically.
They are very nice units.
