Sansui G-9000 - Yet another 'Protector won't come off' thread

[mrk229]

Also... at this point - would you guys tackle the 'big oval caps' ? I'Ve got 8 suitable replacement... I just don't feel the need right now. Unless you tell me its inevitable they'll fail...
Considering the 20+ caps I pulled only one was bad...
(I know, I'm thinking out loud)

Nothing wrong with thinking out loud. It appears from your pictures that one section of the ovals was already replaced by a black tape mummy wrapped one.

There is a neat solution for mounting eight standard round caps in the 9000 that makes it pretty damn easy to change it over. I don't know if the caps you have will fit these boards though. If they do it is the way to go as the old copper buss bar will drop right on it.

Moderator edit: link to ebay auction removed as that violates AK rules.


If you have the caps and they will fit this board I would go ahead and do it. Super simple solution.

 

[djbono]

It appears from your pictures that one section of the ovals was already replaced by a black tape mummy wrapped one.

Yeah I was wondering what was underneath that... from what you're saying, I understand this is not from the manufacturer ? I truly wonder who has gone in there besides me (but obv someone has marked/sharpied a few pieces ).

---
I've got 8x 35mm 8200uF 80v caps - seems like the board you suggested will fit them snugly !
I will go ahead and order them right now

I will keep the Nichicon oval cap covers as souvenir I guess

Now while I wait for the boards to arrive... I really need to tackle the light bulb situation. Most originals still work but quite dim I find

 

[mrk229]

Yeah I was wondering what was underneath that... from what you're saying, I understand this is not from the manufacturer ? I truly wonder who has gone in there besides me (but obv someone has marked/sharpied a few pieces ).

---
I've got 8x 35mm 8200uF 80v caps - seems like the board you suggested will fit them snugly !
I will go ahead and order them right now

I will keep the Nichicon oval cap covers as souvenir I guess

Now while I wait for the boards to arrive... I really need to tackle the light bulb situation. Most originals still work but quite dim I find

Those are not cap covers at all. They are bespoke caps made for Sansui.

And that mummy wrapped cap is absolutely not original. Looks like maybe the top cap failed and someone hung that other one in there.
It appears they used speaker wire.

 

[djbono]

Wow... this is indecent ! I never paid attention or really looked there.
I truly don't know who would have done that to this cherished unit... Certainly not the previous owner himself - I guess he must have had it 'Serviced' ..

Question-
The VU meters and tuning ones ... their background lighthing seems much fainter than in my recolleciton.
Are they actually backlit on their own, or are they just lit by the two bulbs on the top ?

 

[mrk229]

Wow... this is indecent ! I never paid attention or really looked there.
I truly don't know who would have done that to this cherished unit... Certainly not the previous owner himself - I guess he must have had it 'Serviced' ..

Question-
The VU meters and tuning ones ... their background lighthing seems much fainter than in my recolleciton.
Are they actually backlit on their own, or are they just lit by the two bulbs on the top ?

I'm pretty sure the G9000 only has four lamps for the dial and meters. One on each end of the dial and one for each pair of meters.

 

[djbono]

Ok - weird. Might be because the top is off (and perhaps no light reflection - as the middle bulbs for the meters point upwards?)

Only one was out so I replaced it with a semi-suitable replacement.. but I'd sleep better with 4 similar models. I just can't source any that would fit easily the middle/top

 

[mrk229]

Ok - weird. Might be because the top is off (and perhaps no light reflection - as the middle bulbs for the meters point upwards?)

Only one was out so I replaced it with a semi-suitable replacement.. but I'd sleep better with 4 similar models. I just can't source any that would fit easily the middle/top

If I recall they are all the same? Picture?

 

[djbono]

Yeah from the guide you're right, they should all be the same.
The left-side dial bulb had died and I replaced it what whatever I could source locally that would fit electronically (but clearly not physically - see below, it won't go deeper than this - this is not a viable solution long term imho. (and I on the bulb directly, no solder/contact possible after the gromet in case it would come to touch the case))


But now I just pulled out the 'replaced bulb' and clearly its not a suitable replacement, it's all become opaque/mirror like
(Edit.. after starting writing the post I went to get pictures... it doesn't work anymore. It may be because I tried to pull it out yday to measure it)



I pulled one that was pre-existing ... clearly was replaced by the same dude that bypassed one of the big caps with spk wire ... again its a botched job of soldering and not even shrink wrap.. flat out cheap electrical tape that's quite loose ! what a #$ !





And while its futile to try and 'show' dimness/brightness by picture as the picture sensor will seek light, and I have little control on my cell (and then there's the settings of your screen) - here's an image of the front and top. It probably doesn't prove my point that I find it 'dim' - but it sure feels like it should be brighter.




Ideally I'd find replacement locally, because I'm tired of waiting on long deliveries .. but I probably will have to resort to some ebay auction again.
(still haven't received the oval cap replacement boards, and probably won't for another week - not due to the seller's doing at all, he did everythign stellar - its just the postal service is #@$% here as they are on strike.)

 

[djbono]

After more digging-
The replaced-by-someone-else bulbs are wedge type - but I'm 138% adamant that the one I personally replaced a few weeks ago (left,dial) was with a metal socket (don't remember the exact type and ... for the life of me.. I can't find it).
Do we know what type the original bulbs were ? (Not much info in the service guide other than 8v 0.3a)

Closest I could find would be a 7.5V 'CM51':

51 | DigiKey Electronics

Order today, ships today. 51 – Incandescent Lamp Clear 7.5V Round with Domed Top RG-3 1/2 Miniature Bayonet from Visual Communications Company - VCC. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.

www.digikey.ca

which I'm really tempted to risk..
any thoughts against?

 

[mrk229]

After more digging-
The replaced-by-someone-else bulbs are wedge type - but I'm 138% adamant that the one I personally replaced a few weeks ago (left,dial) was with a metal socket (don't remember the exact type and ... for the life of me.. I can't find it).
Do we know what type the original bulbs were ? (Not much info in the service guide other than 8v 0.3a)

Closest I could find would be a 7.5V 'CM51':

51 | DigiKey Electronics

Order today, ships today. 51 – Incandescent Lamp Clear 7.5V Round with Domed Top RG-3 1/2 Miniature Bayonet from Visual Communications Company - VCC. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.

www.digikey.ca

which I'm really tempted to risk..
any thoughts against?

That CM51 bulb would work, it does not have a long life rating, only 1000hrs, and it would not be quite as bright as the originals.

How about Amazon Canada? These are rated for 12-24 AC/DC volts, they might work on 8? https://a.co/d/9cHVqlp

 

[djbono]

Oh .. I thought LEDs were frowned upon
Then again, 2700k might be warm enough

Thanks for the suggestion!

 

[mrk229]

I almost exclusively used LEDS's. I have found ones that I like. for most needs and I have some color gels I use for certain applications.

Yes I find the warm white ones are best and usually not nuclear bright. You can almost always tone down the brightness with a simple series resistor.

I don't know that the ones I linked qualify for not nuclear bright but if the color is as indicated it will closely resemble an incandescent lamp.
And they may be a touch dimmer if they will indeed operate at 8 volts.

A lot of equipment ran the original incandescent lamps a little below rated voltage to extend the lifespan of the bulb. Bonus it makes them a bit warmer toned as well.

 

[djbono]

I'm hesitating towards your suggestion or these much more 'bare' ones.. but they claim to work at 8V AC

Anyray (10-Pack) LED Replacements for Malibu Landscape Lighting 6 SMD SMT 194 T10 Wedge Base 12V AC DC Warm White : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement

Anyray (10-Pack) LED Replacements for Malibu Landscape Lighting 6 SMD SMT 194 T10 Wedge Base 12V AC DC Warm White : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement

a.co

 

[mrk229]

I'm hesitating towards your suggestion or these much more 'bare' ones.. but they claim to work at 8V AC

Anyray (10-Pack) LED Replacements for Malibu Landscape Lighting 6 SMD SMT 194 T10 Wedge Base 12V AC DC Warm White : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement

Anyray (10-Pack) LED Replacements for Malibu Landscape Lighting 6 SMD SMT 194 T10 Wedge Base 12V AC DC Warm White : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement

a.co

They are not 360 degrees of light, but as long as you can get them oriented to get the light where it needs to be then should be OK.

 

[djbono]

I found the bulb I had replaced myself. Not sure if it was an original or not.
Measures a shy of an inch



I still haven't ordered any of the leds yet; the ones you suggested (thanks again) appear a bit too tall, they are 0.08inch smaller than the one I swapped in and doesn't really fit
...but I'm tempted to try still

 

[djbono]

I finally went with these:

Amazon.ca

Hoping they have quite the tolerance on their 6.3v input. They've been on for 3 days, all in all over 20 hours of operations and still good.
They are a tad colder than I would like, BUT, I really enjoy their augmented brightness (makes for reading the VUs much easier) - and their blueness makes the blue writings (G-9000 and the digits on the tuner table) stick out clearly.
The secret is in adjusting the vertical position of the new lamps, as they are taller and the part that lights up is at the top- they need to sit a good quarter inch+ lower than the gromet holders place them. Hopefully my riggamagig will hold.


According to the tracking, I should receive the Big Cap replacement boards today - so I'll likely work on it tonight or tomorrow.

Which will be sad, in a way, cause that'll be closing the chapter on this big boy. I wonder how I'll stay busy!

BUT.. as you can appreciate from the pictures, the facing is still dirtied with remnants of black electrical tape on both sides (more heavily on the right side.) Knowing the porous surface of the unit.. how would you tackle these ? Toothbrush and alcohol ?

====
It's crazy the sound of that beast... I've only plugged in with the 'Party' speakers so far (4x columns with 2x8inch each, amongst other drivers) - and boy can it bring the house down. It's the sole set of speakers with witch, so far, I've gone over the 30% volume knob. And that's with loudness off and tone defeated. Any 'recent' somewhat popular records can't be listened to with Loudness on... these are all now recorded at the very limits, ultra companded and leave little room to the concept of SnR. At very low volumes maybe, but otherwise, its just overpwering with bass. The speakers can handle it, it's just at some point it makes no sense, it seem out of balance. I wish we could have a 'half-a-loudness' button

 

[mrk229]

I finally went with these:

Amazon.ca

Hoping they have quite the tolerance on their 6.3v input. They've been on for 3 days, all in all over 20 hours of operations and still good.
They are a tad colder than I would like, BUT, I really enjoy their augmented brightness (makes for reading the VUs much easier) - and their blueness makes the blue writings (G-9000 and the digits on the tuner table) stick out clearly.
The secret is in adjusting the vertical position of the new lamps, as they are taller and the part that lights up is at the top- they need to sit a good quarter inch+ lower than the gromet holders place them. Hopefully my riggamagig will hold.
View attachment 3631299

According to the tracking, I should receive the Big Cap replacement boards today - so I'll likely work on it tonight or tomorrow.

Which will be sad, in a way, cause that'll be closing the chapter on this big boy. I wonder how I'll stay busy!

BUT.. as you can appreciate from the pictures, the facing is still dirtied with remnants of black electrical tape on both sides (more heavily on the right side.) Knowing the porous surface of the unit.. how would you tackle these ? Toothbrush and alcohol ?

====
It's crazy the sound of that beast... I've only plugged in with the 'Party' speakers so far (4x columns with 2x8inch each, amongst other drivers) - and boy can it bring the house down. It's the sole set of speakers with witch, so far, I've gone over the 30% volume knob. And that's with loudness off and tone defeated. Any 'recent' somewhat popular records can't be listened to with Loudness on... these are all now recorded at the very limits, ultra companded and leave little room to the concept of SnR. At very low volumes maybe, but otherwise, its just overpwering with bass. The speakers can handle it, it's just at some point it makes no sense, it seem out of balance. I wish we could have a 'half-a-loudness' button

Looking good. Yes on the alcohol or goo gone on the tape residue. Soft tooth brush will be OK.

I would stick to dawn or some other diluted mild detergent or windex and a soft cloth (I prefer microfiber) for the rest of the face plate. And no to the toothbrush.

I always play it safe on the lettering, start with the mild stuff and only move up the harshness scale if needed. Careful with the dial window, soft cloth again, some paper towels can actually scratch the plastic.

Drop the knobs in a bowl with some water and dawn let soak overnight an then wipe them off. Most of the time that is all it takes. Same with the button caps and knob levers if they easily pop off.

 

[djbono]

Allright thanks, I'll drop those knobs overnight;
I'll concentrate on the big caps while the chemicals do their stuff.

Those boards seem simple enough indeed; I guess I should solder on the big connecting posts first, flip over - cut their pins (else they'd stick out too much and prevent proper cap insertion I reckon), and solder the big caps on them while paying close attn to polarity.

Glad you pointed me in their direction!

 

[mrk229]

Yes polarity, polarity, polarity. Polarity of the caps, polarity of the color coded screw terminals. Good news is I think the caps will only mount one way.

Check, double check and then check again.

They can make a big bang and a big smelly mess if they pop from reverse polarity.

Definitely do the initial power up on the DBT.

 

[djbono]

"Definitely do the initial power up on the DBT."

Yes, that's granted !
Even when I replaced the bulbs I did the initial on DBT .... Kinda learned behaviour know