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Sansui G22000 VU Meters Failure

Giang Le

Giang Le

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
My Sansui G22000 VU meters have stoped working :( my tech said it might be the Sony CX067 IC chip that is on the board for the meters. LBpete has told me about another potential problem that can cause the meters failures which is the reed relay, so my question is how would one approach fixing this? Is there a possible replacement for the IC or the reed relay. In a idealistic world someone would have a spare IC but that's about a 1 in a million chance haha. Thanks everyone!
 
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It is most unlikely to be the ic. Most likely is the reed relay. We have seen this before. You'll have to search .
 
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Did you try the following....turn off the speakers or disconnect them, then slam the volume control to a high level. Sometimes it's a failing diode.
 
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nosirrah said:
Did you try the following....turn off the speakers or disconnect them, then slam the volume control to a high level. Sometimes it's a failing diode.
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I maxed out the volume without selecting any speakers and I was able to get the meters to move about 1-3mm, thanks alot for the tip! I'll talk to my tech and see what he can do.
 
JOMARK911 said:
It is most unlikely to be the ic. Most likely is the reed relay. We have seen this before. You'll have to search .
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Thanks my tech told me he can disassemble the reed relay and clean everything, also taking into account a potentially failing diode.
 
JOMARK911 said:
Yeah reed relays can not be opened , cleaned and closed back. Impossible. They are sealed.
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Oh I see, I'm just going to get the pre section to him to look over agian with the advice in mind. Is there a possible replacement avalaible to you know of?
 
JOMARK911 said:
There are replacements. I think hyperion might know.
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I know a fair amount (thanks John :thumbsup:) however, I have never investigated modern replacement reed relays for a G-22000. not sure what they look like to be honest.
 
They look kind of like a bug, a small epoxy coated cylinder with wires. I've heard stories about a replacement but don't recall seeing a thread with the actual information for the G22. I have seen threads where folks have made a "daughter" board to adapt a modern reed relay to other applications.

- Pete
 
LBPete said:
They look kind of like a bug, a small epoxy coated cylinder with wires.
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Oh yes, I remember - green in colour, used in the AU-919 and also on the AU-X1 power board. Someone did discuss and maybe even found a replacement, I can't remember who. In view of the shape and colour of the original, and assuming that style of reed relay is no longer available "dead-bugging" a small rectangular PCB mount relay seems like a really appropriate solution. :D
 
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Hi,
You can find it on Ebay ELECTROL RA3031-2241 DPST 24VDC. It worked for me at au-20000
And will try it my g-22000 next week because of not original one on it.
It is not perfect fit but easy to modify the legs (a little bit)
 
merkan said:
Hi,
You can find it on Ebay ELECTROL RA3031-2241 DPST 24VDC. It worked for me at au-20000
And will try it my g-22000 next week because of not original one on it.
It is not perfect fit but easy to modify the legs (a little bit)
Click to expand...

Did you ever try this in your G22000? What was the result? Still looking for a replacement that doesn't require the "dead bug" method (upside down with wires running where they need to.
 
tdwpgtp said:
Did you ever try this in your G22000? What was the result? Still looking for a replacement that doesn't require the "dead bug" method (upside down with wires running where they need to.
Click to expand...
You wont find a drop in replacement for that relay, you'll have to do the dead bug arrangement, I have done this quite a few times, you can also use a perf board to mount the new relay on and drop it straight in, thats the other option.
 
  • I would pm Leestereo , he just finished a complete restore on both my Ba- Ca 3000 and he had to replace one of the reed relays . So he might be a good source . He was able to extend the relay leeds on the new relay and avoid the dead bug install
 
The [original] reed relay in the CA-3000 is a Hitachi part of a long obsolete type. I had suggested an Electrol reed relay - also obsolete, but presently available in some quantity on ebay - as a direct sub. Turns out it not quite dimensionally identical (my mistake) but was reasonably adaptable; Leestereo and I discussed the matter briefly via PM after he had installed it.

It is a good match electrically as both the coil voltage and resistance is identical to the OE part, and has the same pinout. The Electrol part does have a slightly longer body than the Hitachi part, so be aware of that.

That said, I'm picturing that the reed relay under discussion is a different design (epoxy coated with lead wires rather than plastic end caps with PCB pins) so I doubt the Electrol part could be used directly without a daughter board to mount it just due to differences in the form factor.

I've run into this epoxy covered reed relay in an SE-99 eq. In that case it was an NEC part and had a rusty red color epoxy coating. I've seen a variant with a dark green coating as well, but don't recall exactly where; possibly in a cassette deck. I don't believe there is any current source for a direct replacement, this type of reed relay package looks to have been dropped entirely by around 1986 or so. In short, plan on some sort of adaptation.
 
Nothing wrong with using the Omron G5V relay, use perfboard, its easy, best to work out a fix that is a modern replacement to make it serviceable in the future.
I did this very thing for the headphone relay in a AU-X1 recently, it worked out great and looks nice and tidy.....
 
Just fixed a G22000 with dead meters. It probably was not the relay or IC.

There is a fusing resistor on the power line for the meters.
You can check for voltage on the top pin of the meter board at the molex type connector.
Easy to get to, right there on the top when you take the top cover off.
If you have no voltage there, the fusing resistor is prime suspect.
The fusing resistor is on the power supply board in the back, in the bottom.
You need to take the entire rear panel off. easy enough and the wiring allows you to get it off to the side to get in there.
Then, pull the power supply board out to get to the fusing resistor.
Replace it with a metal oxide type resistor of appropriate value.
 
FWIW. This G22000 would miss the right channel start up. The power supply boards in the bottom of the amp looked well used. Some caps appeared terrible, recapping those is a smart move.

I pulled the speaker relays and popped the covers and checked the contacts. They were pretty dirty. Touched them up with crocus cloth. This one’s working perfect now. But, it’s been completely recapped too.
 
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